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Recent content by jefferyd
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Official Rochester Tailored Clothing (formerly Hickey Freeman) Thread
That new collar is so much better too, in my own not so humble opinion lol- jefferyd
- Post #66
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Fake or Real (Authentic, Genuine, etc.) -- Official Authentication Thread
Authentic WHAT, exactly? Those are corozo buttons, which aren’t cheap at all. The Loro Piana label refers to the fabric, not the maker, and while it’s not cheap fabric, it seems like everybody is using it these days. I don’t recognize the brand label but that means nothing. It purports to be...- jefferyd
- Post #5,311
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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MC General Chat
I was involved in most of it though I stepped away from my duties at Samuelsohn when the sale of (the former) Hickey Freeman started to look inevitable a few months ago; Paul Farrington is still at Samuelsohn and is an excellent technician. The previous owner had saddled Hickey Freeman with...- jefferyd
- Post #8,949
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Loro Piana Cashmere Cloud
I have three sport coats made up in this cloth. I don't love it; it doesn't tailor all that well so you could do better for the price.- jefferyd
- Post #2
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Does this suit jacket have any issues or does it just need ironing?
Wool is extremely absorbent and hygroscopic, and when it absorbs humidity, it expands. This is one of the challenges of making canvas clothing. I agree with @Nytailor that the stitching looks tight- it was probably done in a relatively dry environment so when you exposed the edge to a lot of...- jefferyd
- Post #7
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Official Rochester Tailored Clothing (formerly Hickey Freeman) Thread
The Hickey-branded production had been moved up to Montreal a few years ago; when LMAG lost the HF license they quickly came up with a new label to continue to service retailers who wanted the same HF product but with a different name on it. Nothing to do with RTC anymore.- jefferyd
- Post #38
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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J. Press MTM
At least some of the J Press MTM is made in the United States so that can sometimes make the communication of specific requests easier. That particular factory can also do basted tryons if you are especially concerned about the fit.- jefferyd
- Post #15
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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MC General Chat
I probably shouldn’t comment. I’ll get myself into trouble.- jefferyd
- Post #8,844
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Fake or Real (Authentic, Genuine, etc.) -- Official Authentication Thread
That Kiton suit is the most horrendous excuse for a fake I have ever seen. Nothing about it is right. Sorry.- jefferyd
- Post #5,188
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Construction Questions
Here is the most important sentence of your post. We all wear clothing for different reasons, this is yours, and it is valid. So when assessing your wardrobe, the question you should be asking is not "is it full canvas" (much less how the chest is constructed), but do you look good to women...- jefferyd
- Post #3
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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WTAF Are "Handmade" Clothes??
Some clothes actually are made largely by hand, though whether this is added value is sometimes debatable. 100 Hands does an excellent shirt that I consider handmade though there is some machine stitching. I also just examined a garment that was largely hand made. More of that to come.- jefferyd
- Post #4
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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French Tailoring Thread (e.g. Camps de Luca, Cifonelli, Smalto and etc.)
Ohai I was thinking about you the other day. I was looking at some Georges de Paris stuff I may take apart and was amused at the quintessential hallmarks of Parisian tailoring being done in Washington, DC. You may be the only other person in the country who would have recognized some of the...- jefferyd
- Post #2,042
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Fake or Real (Authentic, Genuine, etc.) -- Official Authentication Thread
Before the internet made people obsessed with functioning buttonholes, it was more common to make these “shamholes“ which looked like functioning butttonholes but could be easily altered. These were made by hand in the matching thread and probably done at the factory. The coat is legit.- jefferyd
- Post #5,061
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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So does half-canvas mean fusing included even for high end labels?
Yes, all half-canvas garments have fusing. The first garment is unspecified wool and silk blend, with a poly/viscose lining and is made in Portugal. The second garment is made from English alpaca and wool, has a cupro (bemberg) lining and is made in Italy.- jefferyd
- Post #4
- Forum: Menswear Advice
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Do you have faith in apps that measure you?
The apps fall, broadly speaking, into two categories; some take a few pictures and ask about height and weight and use statistical analysis to figure out what your dimensions are likely to be. While I have heard encouraging things from a few retailers using these apps and how they have very...- jefferyd
- Post #5
- Forum: Menswear Advice