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Recent content by cherrytree
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Dover-man
This Bonora has a very small apron, or lake, which is an attractive look in my opinion. I learned from Trepointes magazine that a small apron/lake like those on the Bonoras is called an "Italian lake." I suppose, not coincidentally, that I've only seen these Italian lakes on Italian...- cherrytree
- Post #12
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Bentivegna construction
What I found interesting/confusing about the Norvegese diagram is that there is no feather. It appears that the stitch is sewn directly into the side of the insole. This strikes me as a pretty difficult operation and would require a thick insole. I believe the reason you see no dimpling with...- cherrytree
- Post #18
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Bentivegna construction
I imagine that you could tell by seeing and feeling the top of the insole along the edges of the inside of the shoe. Since, according to the diagram, the Norwegian construction uses a feather skived into the insole, you should be able to see and feel the dimpling caused by the stitch pulling...- cherrytree
- Post #16
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Bentivegna construction
Here are links to 12 shoe construction types listed in the Japanese magazine Last. If only I could read Japanese. It seems to be a better magazine than Trepointes. Goodyears Blake and related Reverse welts and related Stitch-down and Veldtschoen- cherrytree
- Post #13
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Bentivegna construction
Andy, the truth is out there. I'm thinking that with the resources we have: you, shoefan, t4phage, jcusey, bengal-stripe, we must be able to figure this out. Perhaps a Style Forum member who speaks Japanese can translate the text that goes with the picture, and that may provide further...- cherrytree
- Post #9
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Bentivegna construction
Here's a pictorial description of Norvegese, aka Bentivegna, construction from the Japanese shoe magazine Last. There is no welt and the upper and lining are stitched directly into the side of the insole. The magazine also shows "Norwegian construction," which is exactly the same as Bentivegna...- cherrytree
- Post #5
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Kabbaz shirts?
As a current customer of Alex Kabbaz, the decision to have my shirts made by Alex and his wife has been simple. They are the highest-value custom shirts I have seen and worn. I would love to be able to pay "only" $300-400 for custom shirts, but I've spent over $5,000 trying custom...- cherrytree
- Post #12
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Custom shirts
T4phage, thanks for the accurate information on Borrelli and Brioni. Is Errico Formicola the tailor who fitted you at both Kiton and Borrelli?- cherrytree
- Post #14
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Custom shirts
This is a great web page from Alex Kabbaz on how to launder and iron shirts. Like Geneva, many of Alex's clients mail their shirts to him to be laundered and ironed properly. No matter what, never let your shirts be touched by a dry cleaner/laundermat. Alex Kabbaz Laundering and Ironing- cherrytree
- Post #12
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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HOF: Men's fashion web sites
Andy, wow. This is a remarkable list. You've expanded my horizons greatly. The Classico Italia site is a great resource for Italian fashion URLs. I especially appreciated all of the new (to me) shoe sites. A great discovery for me was through the French shoe web sites you listed. Apparently...- cherrytree
- Post #6
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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HOF: Men's fashion web sites
I was looking at the men's fashion folder in my bookmark manager, and I thought that it could prove useful to others to have a list of various men's fashion web sites. I copied my folder into this post. This is hardly an all inclusive list. For instance, there are no Savile Row tailors here. It...- cherrytree
- Thread
- Replies: 70
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Top 10 tailors in america
While I very much enjoy the candor of the Forum, I believe some need to be far more careful when making accusations. Â For instance, the claim that a Raphael apprentice tailor makes suits for Jon Green clients is entirely false. Â The apprentice is a young Peruvian named Marcello who does...- cherrytree
- Post #49
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Top 10 tailors in america
My Charvet shirts were surprisingly disappointing. I received my first three, and they fit too tightly around the chest. They also didn't have split yokes nor buttons on the sleeve placket, which I specifically asked to have. I speak fluent French so I know there wasn't a translation issue that...- cherrytree
- Post #12
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Top 10 tailors in america
Hi banksmiranda, The article was in the August 2002 Robb Report issue. The top ten tailors according to RR were: Joe Centofanti, Philadelphia Chris Despos, Chicago William Fioravanti, New York Christian Garcia, Coral Gables, Fla. Anthony Gasbarri, Los Angeles Leonard Logsdail, New York Manuel...- cherrytree
- Post #10
- Forum: Classic Menswear