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Recent content by armscye

  1. armscye

    Leather Alterations in Connecticut?

    Danbury. Cerveira's. Classically trained, second generation, Portuguese master tailor. Fernando was waxing thread for his father at the age of six, he tells me.
  2. armscye

    Leather Alterations in Connecticut?

    I have a wonderful tailor, but his machine can't handle a motorcycle style jacket with 1.2mm leather. Can anyone recommend a leather alterations specialist in Connecticut? BTW I've gone the route of contacting saddle shops and cycle dealers, and to my astonishment, haven't received a viable...
  3. armscye

    Adding elbow patches to tweed sportcoat

    Elbow patches need not be ovals, so you have some flexibility in covering the tear. For example, In "Tinker, Tailor, Soldier, Spy", one of the senior spies in British Intelligence wears tweed jackets with diamond-shaped patches that author LeCarre calls "Harlequin style." I have also seen...
  4. armscye

    Changing (Slightly) Shoe Color

    In my experience, corrected-grain shoes are the ones that show the GREATEST improvement from being stripped/repolished. The purpose of the grain correction-- which is applied like a paint job over the entire hide-- is to cover any potential flaws, and to give the less sophisticated buyer a...
  5. armscye

    Distance between last button & bottom of sleeve?

    I would say no MORE than 3/4 inch. The greater distance is the mark of poorly finished RTW.
  6. armscye

    Surgeon's Cuffs on Topcoat?

    What says the panel on surgeon's cuffs with working buttonholes on a topcoat or overcoat? I have two new overcoats about to go off to my tailor for slimming, detailing, and button upgrading, so now would be the time to add surgeon's cuffs if I were going to do it. One is a SB navy cashmere...
  7. armscye

    Bespoke workmanship

    Certain elements of a bespoke suit are often deliberately less perfect looking than a machine made suit-- most notably the buttonholes (some custom suitmakers sew them rather roughly as proof of hand worksmanship), and topstitching. I've heard this called the "artisan" look.
  8. armscye

    Big tie knot

    Both four-in-hand and Windsor knots can be "volumized" to suit, presuming you have enough length. For a four in hand, do the main wrap twice around rather than once. You'll have what's called a Prince Albert-- still asymmetrical and narrow, just bigger. With a full Windsor, you loop...
  9. armscye

    Nettleton shell cordovan shoes

    Nettleton was indeed a premier maker, regarded as the equal of Florsheim Imperials. My Uncle Jude wore them as his wedding/courtroom shoe. they are similar in quality and trad styling to a fine New England shoe that vanished at about the same time, Walk-Over
  10. armscye

    Breitling/Britix

    At one time Breitling had a "junior brand" (a la Tudor) called Merit. But this was at least 30 years ago.
  11. armscye

    Permanent pants creases in bespoke suits?

    In the May GQ, there is a piece on tailor to the stars Jack Victor, in which the standard Jack Victor pant is described as having slash front pockerts, no rear pockets, and creases that are "permanent" because they are stitched in. I have seen military and western garments with...
  12. armscye

    does anyone watch law and order?

    Farina is a former real-life Chicago cop and a genuinely stylish guy. In an interview around the time of Snatch he remarked on his affection for custom shirts. There are lots of well-dressed New York City detectives. Clothes are cheap if you know your way around town, and in a city where your...
  13. armscye

    Best sunglasses for less than $100?

    Proof, please? Five minutes of websurfing turns up a New Zealand consumer-testing report (below) that says that virtually all of the cheap sunglasses they tested provide at least 95% UV protection. Hmm, that's what I said. Or you can check any of the websites for the high-buck sunglasses, which...
  14. armscye

    Best sunglasses for less than $100?

    Dollar Store will do fine. I developed advertising for a sunglass maker in the mid Nineties, and was briefed by an overly frank optics engineer. Basically, ANY glass, polycarbonate, or CR-39 acrylic lens with a light transmission in the 10-14% range gives you the same level of UV A and UV B...
  15. armscye

    Buttonholes

    Buttonholes are in fact one of the signatures of custom tailors, and reflect a great deal of individuality. Savile Row seems to specialize in big, heavily reinforced buttonholes with a distinct lip, while Kiton's are small, insubstantial, and appear unreinforced. Oxxford's lapel buttonholes...

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How important is full vs half canvas to you for heavier sport jackets?

  • Definitely full canvas only

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  • Half canvas is fine

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  • Really don't care

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  • Depends on fabric

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  • Depends on price

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