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Your Go-to Dress Shoe Brand

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by NAMOR, Jun 11, 2011.

  1. cronicmole

    cronicmole Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    435
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    Feb 14, 2011
    Allen Edmonds in second place.. somewhere Vox is smiling.
     
  2. TKDKid

    TKDKid Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    680
    Joined:
    Feb 1, 2004
    Location:
    London, UK
    Work rotation consists of C&J Handgrade, Grenson Masterpiece and Edward Green.

    C&J fit me best.
     
  3. Church's Goer

    Church's Goer Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    46
    Joined:
    Jun 20, 2011
    Location:
    My house
    is that a yes?

    That's a polite way of saying no.
     
  4. stant62

    stant62 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,015
    Joined:
    Sep 16, 2008
    Location:
    New York, NY
    Aldens on the Abderdeen and Hampton lasts (except for the BB unlined LHS which I believe is on the Copley).
     
  5. bjornb17

    bjornb17 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    732
    Joined:
    Sep 10, 2010
    Allen Edmonds... since they can be found pretty affordably and the quality is good
     
  6. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    25,756
    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2007
  7. clee1982

    clee1982 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    7,943
    Joined:
    Feb 22, 2009
    Location:
    New York City, NY, USA
    Rockport or John Brothers.


    - B


    sig worthy, especially from Vox
     
  8. NewYorkIslander

    NewYorkIslander Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    9,910
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    Mar 22, 2008
    Location:
    Breuckelen, NY 11209
    I like the aesthetic of the gunboat, so its Alden for me. The Barrie and Modified last are very comfortable as well.
     
  9. LS7

    LS7 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    845
    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2009
    Location:
    London, UK
    John Lobb for me. I'll be the first to admit that they make some fugly models that I would never go anywhere near, however the classics such as the Philip II counterbalance this. The 7000 last is wonderful and fits me the best of any RTW last I've tried thus far.
     
  10. RSS

    RSS Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    10,042
    Joined:
    Apr 1, 2008
    Location:
    No.1 Nonsuch Place
    There are ... so ... many.
     
  11. GiltEdge

    GiltEdge Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,138
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    Jun 24, 2008
    Grenson Masterpiece for Paul Stuart *
     
  12. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    16,118
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    Apr 21, 2005
    Location:
    Tombstone
    I can't think of a maker that makes more than a handful of styles I'd want to buy.

    I guess I'm not a real shoe guy.
     
  13. UnFacconable

    UnFacconable Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,172
    Joined:
    Jan 22, 2007
    I'm surprised there hasn't been any love for Martegani. I suspect it's because they have an identity problem in that they aren't really a centralized brand, it's just an Italian factory which gives retailers a lot of flexibility to detail orders. As a result of this, there have been a number of horrific shoes put out over the years (I shudder at the thought of all the ostrich leg multi-skin shoes that have been detailed), but if you look at the more conservative and persistent models detailed by Rider and Franco's over the years, there are a lot of great shoes.

    At the retail price, they are a very very good value as well - the blake-rapid construction relies on leather instead of cork (which let's be honest, when manufacturers use cork it's typically lots of glue with some cork particles), very tightly grained close-channeled soles, and fantastic upper leather which is rarely found below the EG and JL level. I have a number of Marteganis with radica calf (identical to JL's museum calf, sadly no longer used much anywhere), "iron" calf which is crust leather hand-finished in Italy, and rustik calf which is another of their premium leathers. All of them compare favorably to leather I've seen in shoes costing more (sometimes much more). If Radica is good enough for JL, it should be good enough for shoppers at the Martegani price point. I don't know where you will find that quality of materials in any other shoe that is price-competitive with Martegani. Further, in the shoes I've handled, the finishing has been very good. Certainly not perfect (errors in perfing is typical), but the soles are well finished and the stitching (both welt and otherwise) always looks great.

    See here for a nice gallery of the US stock: http://martegani.wordpress.com/us-stock/

    personal favorites include:

    http://martegani.files.wordpress.com...pg?w=255&h=299
    http://martegani.files.wordpress.com...pg?w=255&h=194
    http://martegani.files.wordpress.com...pg?w=250&h=232
    http://martegani.files.wordpress.com...pg?w=300&h=177
     
  14. JubeiSpiegel

    JubeiSpiegel Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    5,371
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    Jun 9, 2011
    Location:
    Sartorial Wasteland
    Allen Edmonds now, Ferragamo Tramezza soon, Edward Green later. So many shoes, too little time [​IMG]
     
  15. Mudhiker

    Mudhiker Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    369
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    Dec 20, 2010
    Location:
    in a grove of shoe trees.
    NOS and thrifted Florsheims in 11D fit my feet like butter. I also like Tricker's. Can be on my feet all day in either brand with no complaints.
     
  16. qtlaw

    qtlaw Active Member

    Messages:
    37
    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2011
    Alden. They are bullet proof, comfortable and hold their shine very well. Not the most exciting but I love them.
     
  17. NORE

    NORE Well-Known Member

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    5,495
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    Dec 3, 2010
    Location:
    Back On Here
    Dude, what the H man? How is AE blowing everyone else out of the water?
     
  18. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    33,325
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    Oct 16, 2006
    Location:
    New York City
    Just like anything else, price and quantity are inversely correlated.
     
  19. NORE

    NORE Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    5,495
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    Dec 3, 2010
    Location:
    Back On Here
    Explains how they remain in biz.
     
  20. NAMOR

    NAMOR Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    20,575
    Joined:
    Sep 3, 2010
    Location:
    Heavenly & Northstar
    

    Not sure what happened to the thread but top 3 brand, in no order

    Alden
    Allen Edmonds
    Crockett Jones

    18 months ago, JL was my favorite, now:


    1. G&G
    2. Carmina
    2. EG
    3. Saint Crispin
    4. Crockett & Jones
    5. AS Handgrade/Exclusive
    6. Alden
    7. John Lobb

    Keep in kind I prefer shell over calf and a boot over shoe. To put the ranking into some context, I'm more willing to pay full retail for something in the top 3. Anything below that needs to be on sale for me to consider it
     

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