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Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Ivwri, Dec 29, 2011.

  1. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Well-Known Member

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    There is a fault in the Hervia system at the moment, the AW12 YYPH stock they have so far are 50% off alongside the SS12 stuff as well! Someone should pull the trigger quickly before it's rectified.....
     
    Last edited: Jul 6, 2012
  2. Guy Burgess

    Guy Burgess Well-Known Member

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    crazy shoes from the ss13 showroom
    [​IMG]

    and i have to say, this is the weirdest image i've ever seen when looking for yohji stuff. I've spoilered it because, well, you'll see...

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2012
    3 people like this.
  3. asobu

    asobu Well-Known Member

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    Great fits on this page, guys

    Good to finally see some aw12 in store too. Has it gone on sale already? I think Aoyama flagship starts next friday, and isetan the friday that follows? Speaking of beautiful stores - and I think I've said this before - the Aoyama store is absolutely amazing

    Ivrwi, thanks for posting those exhibition pics! That ss06 dino dress ... and the AW00 jacket/suits are just incredible, if I ever see the right one on auction in my size I'm going for it full force
     
  4. dantebykiko

    dantebykiko Well-Known Member

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    quick late night grocery shopping. wearing my first ever yohji garment, which it's y's long wool coat from a/w 04. the funny things about this jacket it's that i found it on yyph show from same year. maybe someone here will have explanation for that? there are few shows where you can see models wearing y's jacket on the wrong side and you can see the big Y'S.




    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    y's wool coat
    muji cotton ls
    y's for men cotton pants
    rubber dipped vans (ccp irony)
    gf responsible for the collages.

    [​IMG][​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2012
    2 people like this.
  5. wireartists

    wireartists Well-Known Member

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    there are a several seasons where both Y's and YYPH were shown mixed on the same runaway, the tag from Y's in those cases was red* with an aggressive hand written Y's

    *edit: or black hehe

     
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2012
  6. the shah

    the shah Well-Known Member

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    lying furtively
    patiently awaitng wire's sale extravaganza to get me some nice sz3 :D old skool stock
     
  7. Parker

    Parker Well-Known Member

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    I've noticed yohji likes to show some jackets inside-out on the runway. Not sure it it's just a quirky show detail or the jackets are designed to be that way. Sometimes it looks pretty neat, other times sorta weird. That looks good, btw, dante. I like the shirt, too. here's an inside-out look from AW09. both jacket and pant looks like they're inside out - or maybe reversible?
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2012
  8. Ivwri

    Ivwri Well-Known Member

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    That particular suit was reversible from what I understand. The first looks on that runway show show the suit normal side up and then the reverse is shown (albeit in a different color). I believe wire had this suit and might be able to shed a bit more light on it. Was one of my grails, but I think it is fleece wool lined and so would be too warm for regular use in Nigeria :(. Really like how long the pants are and the number of pockets the jacket has is just awesome.
     
  9. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Well-Known Member

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    Dunno about the pants, but those AW09 blazers are definitely reversible ( you have to button wrong way round ). I have the navy one in the background of that pic. Wire had the grey suit I think. Some pieces are designed to be COMPLETELY reversible, like the SS06 Look 24, 25 coats and a lot of the AW02 runway blazers. They have double sided buttons.
     
  10. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Well-Known Member

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    Those AW09 blazers are made in stiff cotton on the ' right ' side with single buttoned working sleeves. Wire will tell you himself, if the sleeves are too long the stiff fabric made them uncomfortablle. My navy Look 6 in sz 2 had to have the sleeves altered from the shoulders to make it work....but it's worth it. Attention to detail:- even the buttons are navy :)
     
  11. stadsvandringar

    stadsvandringar Active Member

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    A lot of the aw09 collection was designed to be reversible. This was the same collection with animal print linings, shown inside out on the runway, with boxers worn over pants, etc. I have one of those reversible jackets with a cotton outer and fleece lining too. I got it in a size 2 and found the fit spot on (I normally wear a 3). It's one of my favorite winter jackets actually. Probably too warm for Nigeria, but perfect for the cold east coast winter. Aw09 was one of my favorite yohji collections actually. I'm also very into the boiled wool blazers with the white cotton lining.
     
  12. cupper

    cupper Well-Known Member

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    Coincidence, was browsing rakuten and just happened to see this very blazer.

    [​IMG][​IMG]
     
  13. esox

    esox Well-Known Member

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    jimu on rakuten has some nice stuff but not that cheap i would say.

    do you know some place where some can see better pictures of the cloth because on rakuten and yahoo the pics are mostly horrible, small and you hardly can see what you wanna buy.
     
  14. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, AW09 was a great YYPH collection, the last before the Y's for men demise, the bankruptcy, the take-over. A truly " carefree ", as in unwearable for some Runway pieces, season before everything now is designed more on saleability and a wider appeal.
     
  15. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Well-Known Member

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    If it's a Runway piece, use fashion websites to get a better look of the garment in question. In the end, trust your instincts, buy something relatively cheap first so less impact on your wallet. By and large the Japanese are very careful owners, their rating of, say, 7 out of 10 is like brand new. I personally am more wary of eBay, quite a few dishonest sellers.
     
  16. dantebykiko

    dantebykiko Well-Known Member

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    i don't think the collection it's unwearable or braver than any other recent collections. just the styling it's pushed more into concept's direction.
     
  17. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Well-Known Member

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    I mean some Runway pieces were very bold, pyjamas, robes, boxer shorts. Very conceptual like you said, AW09 is an epic season which I love. The quilted blazer and the long reversible coat were in V & A, outstanding pieces. Recent collections are more safe and dare I say slimmer in silhouette too.
     
  18. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Well-Known Member

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    Something I wore last evening, excuse poor pic quality
    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    YYPH SS05 Look 17 linen blazer ( HY-J48-300 ) 100% linen, fully lined, 3B construction, tortoise shell buttons ( nice ), 4 black zipped pockets, black zips with red pulls, faintly dyed numbers next to pockets. The red pulls give the blazer a lift, left lapel is semi detachable. Sz 2 very oversized fit, great in motion
    YYPH SS09 Look 15 leather insert pants ( HV-P07-114 ) 100% laine wool, softer & thinner than 100, leather belt loops, back pocket flaps, and darts on side pockets by knees ( none of those can be seen lol ). Sz 3, hilariously oversized in waist, high waisted, very roomy = great.
    Y-3 black LS polyester asymmetical collar shirt, CDG H+ belt & Y's AW06 canvas/suede ankle boots.
     
    2 people like this.
  19. Auburn

    Auburn Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    Germany
    I was wearing my blue rayon Yohji suit in the club and it was really nice to feel the fabric billowing around me. We talk a lot about how you have to see Yohji in motion in order to "understand" it but I think that the feeling of wearing Yohjis clothes while being in motion is also something that makes his designs so wonderful. There is an older ad with some young boys running on the beach towards the photographer/viewer wearing white shirts; it is an image that for me really captures this flowing sort of feeling.
     
  20. asobu

    asobu Well-Known Member

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    The slimmer silhouettes definitely started before any kind of post-AW09 era. Perhaps AW07 is some sort of transitional collection (most of it still fit pretty big) but by SS08 there was definitely a shift. SS08, AW08 AND AW09 all fit considerably slimmer in general, so this has nothing to do with slimming down the silhouettes to sell more after the restructuring.

    I agree with dante that the styling pushed aw09 in that direction (apparently insipred by his year in paris), but the pieces aren't really more daring than later on. Robes he's done many times before and after that collection, the construction worker style wide pants are like pleatleass hakamas. I think it's hard to claim that he designs "everything" on saleability and wider appeal post AW09 when he's sending out, for instance, full tapestry suits and a collection completely based on hakamas. There's been total showpieces later on too, like the silk velvet nude print coats, just to give one example.
     

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