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Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Ivwri, Dec 29, 2011.

  1. PregnantBob

    PregnantBob Well-Known Member

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  2. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Well-Known Member

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    Well that's the trouble when I am only 1.68/1.7m tall :( So short cutaway blazers divide the short frame in a more defined, better way. But if it's short & cutaway, it needs to be boxy too. Just my preference. Rolling pants imo gives out a casual vibe which is what wearing YY is all about in my book.

    I do like some long blazers if the proportion is right but some long coats are impossible to pull off even it's size 2. I guess it adds to the challenge, and ultimately the satisfaction of getting the right stuff in auctions untried because most of those Runway Looks are modelled by people 1.80m plus...like yourself [​IMG]
     
  3. Zeemon

    Zeemon Well-Known Member

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    how tall is yohji himself actually?
    i think approx. 1,70m is japanese/korean/chinese average (men)
    is japan the most important market for YY?
     
  4. Ivwri

    Ivwri Well-Known Member

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    Not sure how tall Yohji is actually. If the "Yohji suits" are anything to go by, then he should be about that height I think Zeemon.

    I can only speculate, but I would think that Yohji is definitely targeting the two markets (both inside and outside Japan) equally right now. From anecdotal information, it seemed like the Japanese market left Yohji for the newer designers like Jun Takahashi and so on with more of his fanbase being focused in Europe, but he still has hardcore fans in Japan (especially with the better prices there), and I think with the 2010 show when he made a big deal of going back to Japan to have the show after being absent for a while he might have gained some more. Also with recent collections he has really referenced Japanese cultural clothing which resonated very well with them.
     
    1 person likes this.
  5. Superb0bo

    Superb0bo Well-Known Member

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    Sorry if this is the wrong thread, but how does Coming Soon fit?
    im tall and usually take a EU 52-54 jacket...

    I really like the yohji look, but the price and the requirment for a whole yy wardrobe puts me off. It seems that with Coming soon ,both price and potential to fit it with the stuff I already have is better.
     
  6. Ivwri

    Ivwri Well-Known Member

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    This is the right thread :D. Parker (or maybe davidlee388?) would be in the best position to help you. So whenever they can reply (or you could try PM) I am sure they will.

    Generally though I would think true to size on most things.

    As an aside, if you're willing to pick up COMING SOON you should be able to still find some pretty good deals on older Yohji Pour Homme and Y's pieces on eBay or rakuten/yahoo Japan and to a lesser extent various forum classifieds. No reason to limit yourself to just COMING SOON as you could get some very good deals.. If you usually take a 52-54 (woah you are tall! Like 6'4"?) you should keep an eye out for size 5 stuff (which arguably is rare) although I think some size 4 things could work in mainline.
     
  7. the shah

    the shah Well-Known Member

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    well i asked about the "for sale" and it turns out to be a big joke

    also tried on the sneakers, i need a 4.5 which doesn't actually exist -- and the 3 have been dispatched to me meaning i'm just receiving a bill to return them to UK :confused:

    and to top things off, the things i was hoping to get from justoneeye are now sold out :laugh:
     
  8. Superb0bo

    Superb0bo Well-Known Member

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    thanks!

    Coming Soon is usually pretty available on yoox, which is a really simple option compared to e.g., rakuten at the moment, especially since i dont know if cs/yy would suit me.

    I take it that you dont like CS that much Ivwri?

    Im about 6´4 (193 cm/86 kg) with broad shoulders. Would CS or YY be sized more "traditional" or "fashion-y"? 52 in the former, 54 in the latter....
     
  9. Ivwri

    Ivwri Well-Known Member

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    I am actually pretty surprised that people over on SZ were so certain it was some hint of doom and gloom. The guy was smiling with a huge shiner on his face, I don't know how anyone could take that message seriously. Then again, Faust seems to have been on a Yohji wants to quit and so on line for the last couple of seasons so not that surprised...

    That sucks about the sneakers and the other justoneeye stuff shah :(. I will keep an eye out for that size now that you have mentioned it. What does that translate to in Yohji sizing?

    I have actually never handled any CS stuff SuperBobo, but I like it in principle. They also had cool ads :). YYPH has the conceptual stuff that gets me going, but I do like some of the CS stuff I have seen in ads and the videos.

    As for sizing, since Yohji is generally oversized, I think a 52 would generally be a 52 (and even some people will argue a 50 would fit a real 52, but I believe in having more of an oversized fit as can be seen by the title of the thread and other opinions from members here).
     
    Last edited: Jul 2, 2012
    2 people like this.
  10. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Well-Known Member

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    You can find lots of Coming Soon on Yoox.com atm ( nearly 300 items ) . They fit kinda true to size with a slight long sleeve feel ( like Yohji ). Most of them ( if not all ) are made in Italy so its sizes apply ( 46 - 54 etc for blazers/pants ) XS - XL (?) for Tees/shirts. I have maybe 3/4 Tees, very soft cotton, the striped one can be mistaken as YY ( lol ), some drawstring sweatpants are very oversized so I can mix with the ' authentic ' YY. I also have a SS blouson with a trick extendable panel like a YYPH AW11 number last year. CS fabrics aren't top notched compared with Yohji ( but then, what is? )

    So you can say Y-3 is YY sportswear, Coming Soon ( was ) YY street-wear. I'm still baffled why it wasn't received well. The good thing to get CS from Yoox is it has such vast stock & sizes you can order shedload of stuff including same styles in different sizes and just return the ones that don't fit F.O.C. Definitely a win-win situation.

    There are currently >2000 YYPH/Y's for men on Y! right now to choose from. The early 90s stuff can be had for very little money ( & little risk ) and those in sz M/L will fit you well I guess as well as sz 4/5 of the later stuff Ivwri mentioned. So having a YY wardrobe need not break your bank. Though if you are hooked, you may lol!
     
  11. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Well-Known Member

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    Last edited: Jul 2, 2012
  12. stadsvandringar

    stadsvandringar Active Member

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    Just to chime in about coming soon: I have several pieces, all bought from yoox. I think the fit is generally pretty true to the other yohji lines and the quality is decent. If you want some basic stuff in a "yohji" fit, I'd recommend it. It of course mixes well with other yohji stuff and definitely much cheaper. It cannot in any way live up to mainline or even y's levels of quality, but I think it is generally worth it at the low sales prices. For whatever reason the line just failed to connect. Probably because in order to appeal to the younger "streetwear" crowd it was either too formal, too expensive, too plain, too baggy, not trendy enough or any combination of those. In the US, I can only remember retailers here carrying the first couple of seasons of the line before they all dropped it. At the time jackets were retailing in the $600-$700 range or something ridiculous.
     
    1 person likes this.
  13. PregnantBob

    PregnantBob Well-Known Member

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  14. Parker

    Parker Well-Known Member

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    ^ no, but the "playing rabbits" striped tee looks kinda fun.

    SuperBobo, I like all the Coming Soon things I've bought quite a bit. imo they are kind of stripped down versions of his main line. i.e. not as many unique details, lesser quality fabrics, etc. But they still have the Yohji thumbprint in the styling. And I think they're a good value. I especially like the linen/wool dress pants. Sizing is generous. I am a typical 48eu suit size (38us jacket / 32 waist) and I have a pair of 46 pants which are still a tad loose. I also have a 48 which have a nice, baggier silhouette -- probably more the intended effect -- but really need to be belted/cinched in the waist.
     
    Last edited: Jul 2, 2012
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  15. esox

    esox Well-Known Member

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    i tried on some cs jackets and as some others said they are quit true to size. i am 6' 2 and 88 kg and 52 or 54 was ok but fitted in shoulders.

    i think not everything (every season) is oversized cuted. i saw a lot of pieces that were slim cutted as well. especially y's stuff. but even this year very nice jersey jackets were slim cutted
    so they dont fitted me even in a 4. if i would buy bigger the sleves are on my knees. :)

    past seasons are more oversized. i have a long silk jacket with size m and it fit me. trouser is a size 2. much bigger than today stuff. :)

    i bought near all the stuff in yy shops. bad for money good for trying on. ;-) because a lot depends of the cut and it fits not everybody even if the size is right.

    so the best will be you know the cut if not i would look for something cheaper from older seasons so it gives you not that deep impact in your wallet. :)
     
    Last edited: Jul 3, 2012
  16. asobu

    asobu Well-Known Member

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    Ok. Wow. Have you guys seen this? For some reason I've completely missed it though it's been up for a month. Some of you guys have probably seen this already but I don't think it's been posted in the thread? A bunch of full Y's and Y's for Men shows AW05 (last Y's runway) and before - and, pardon my french, some of this stuff is absolutely fucking incredible.

    Absolute must-sees:

    Y's in Beijing A/W 2008


    just the movement of that opening coat... I guess they used a bunch of signature mainline aw08 pieces for this collection and then added they Y's stuff too? Incredible collections. Is that Yohji's voice at the end?


    Y's For Men Pitti Uomo A/W 2005, full show:


    that beautiful gabardine at the start, those incredible grey and navy linen blends, the short cutaway color jackets, the gorgeous hooded cashmere blend coats, pretty much everything in this show is pretty incredible from start to finish. Just too bad we don't get to see the womens part

    Highly recommended:

    Short snippet of Max Vadukul shooting the Y's 2000 catalogue in Tokyo:


    Y's for Men A/W 2004:


    Y's for Men S/S 2004:

    (really fun styling, love how they just pile stuff on the models like they want to show as many clothes as possible per model, jeans worn around the waist, as scarves, extra pair of pants worn apron-style, knits worn on the waist, shirts backwards, upside down, reversed etc. Lots of denim, the embroided dark denim shirts are great, the red plaid stuff is worn reversed - the front side is made of a beautiful navy gabardine. Doesn't look much like a regular YY show I guess, but it's high quality stuff when seen as separates. Some of the shades or plaids or colors don't agree with me and the styling is ridiculous but still a fun show)

    Y's womens A/W 2004:
    http://vimeo.com/42971513


    Worth watching:

    Y's for Men S/S 2005:
    http://vimeo.com/42969315

    Y's womens S/S 2005:
    http://vimeo.com/42971512


    :slayer:
     
    Last edited: Jul 3, 2012
    6 people like this.
  17. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Well-Known Member

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    You are the man Asobu![​IMG]

    Ivwri, the tartan jacket I wore that you commented on, it's on the Pitti Uomo Runway, cleverly layered over another 3B grey blazer, I tried that Look a long while ago at home, it's crazy but genius.I only have one 3B blazer with the exact button placement to make it work :)
     
  18. PregnantBob

    PregnantBob Well-Known Member

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    nice Asobu, downloaded them all. Thank you
     
  19. Ivwri

    Ivwri Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for that post asobu. Going through the vids now. I had been looking for Y's runways for a while now, but forgot to check vimeo!

    I think I saw a photo of that outfit you are talking about david. Looked really interesting, if a bit fussy, haha. Could be an interesting look for a winter though.

    Just picked up some Limi Feu and one YY mainline dress for my wife today (thanks to Parker's help!) for her birthday and they all worked out really well! Really nice stuff. The Yohji dress is a 56cupro/44cotton blend and feels extremely light. More like cotton than cupro, but the cupro gives it this smooth quality to the touch.

    The two Limi Feu items are a skirt and a really nice long waistcoat both in 100% wool. I don't know whether Limi Feu ever uses the same codes as her father, but the wool is a 180 wool and is so thin it is translucent once held up to the light. Good stuff.
     
    Last edited: Jul 3, 2012
  20. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Well-Known Member

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    Just my bad luck....or my wife's to be precise, YY Japan and Limi Feu SS sale started Sunday so I duly emailed SharpService with a list of things. They came back quoting retail prices and said the Sale hadn't started yet. Chased them up again just 2 hours ago, finally confirmed the misunderstanding but the 3 Runway Limi pieces my wife likes were sold out ( they were still available Sunday then ). Damn it.....
     

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