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Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Ivwri, Dec 29, 2011.

  1. 951socal

    951socal Well-Known Member

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    i saw some of the y-3 selvedge jeans at the Vegas boutique awhile ago, was that part of the exclusive line? retailed for $850ish but they had a 30% off sale

    i was mostly there for the shoes thinking i could get regular Adidas there for walking around.

    turns out im an idiot :p
    but hey at least one of the employees now know that y-3 is an addidas collab?
     
    Last edited: Jun 4, 2012
  2. 1234

    1234 Well-Known Member

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    Do you guys find its tough to wear Yohji pretty exclusively if you live in a warmer climate?
     
  3. Nil

    Nil Well-Known Member

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    Yohji excels in warmer climates. I only have pants so far, but that loose, flowy silhouette is common among so many warm weather cultures (e.g. Arab, African, SE Asia, etc.) for a reason. It works damn well to keep you cool.
     
  4. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Well-Known Member

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    Almost all the SS12 Runway pieces are perfect for warm climate, the fabrics are super light and delicate :)
     
  5. stadsvandringar

    stadsvandringar Active Member

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    I think yohji makes a good range of clothes for various climates. His summer stuff can easily accommodate the warmer climates out there. Some of the lightest shirts and pants I own are yohji. On the other hand, I live in a pretty cold climate, and yohji is really ideal. The big coats work really well out here (Boston) in the winter time. In my opinion, a climate with a large degree of seasonal fluctuation is really ideal for yohji. I am thinking of a place like tokyo or new york in particular, where the winters are cold but not incredibly brutal, and the summer can get quite hot. If my hunch is true, it is probably not a coincidence that yohji fits the tokyo weather really well. Of course, his winter stuff is my favorite by far, and people in warmer areas are definitely missing out.
     
  6. Ivwri

    Ivwri Well-Known Member

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    I live in a tropical environment and have no problems whatsoever. If it gets really hot and/or humid I just go without a jacket and wear loose gabardine pants and a white shirt most of the time untucked. It's pretty easy to do and the looseness of the clothing helps with keeping cool while outside (the hakamas are excellent for this). Usually though I have no problems wearing a light cotton or linen jacket most times and even gabardine is fine. Of course, I may just be used to the heat in general and some people have less tolerance for heat than others.
     
  7. Ivwri

    Ivwri Well-Known Member

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    Yeah I definitely agree with this point in particular. All those lovely coats are useless here :(
     
  8. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Well-Known Member

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    Y-3 jeans for US $850 retail? Almost definitely Exclusive Line then. Y's for Men jeans were about the same price then before the line was killed off after AW09.
     
  9. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Well-Known Member

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    Just want to share some Y-3 Exclusive pieces of yesteryears with those who may be interested:-

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    AW09 Exclusive MOMO Print Blazer AW09 Exclusive MOMO Cloud Blazer

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    AW10 Exclusive Double Layer Coat AW10 Exclusive Wrinkle Fabric Blouson + Exclusive Pants

    Notice the Yohji buttons on some pieces :)
     
  10. dantebykiko

    dantebykiko Well-Known Member

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  11. hendrix

    hendrix Well-Known Member

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    ^ that the whole collection? maybe needs to be seen in person but one of the least inspiring, from the pics at least.
     
  12. dantebykiko

    dantebykiko Well-Known Member

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    not the whole collection, just the looks that in my opinion can be worn easily with his mainline. also the opening of s/s 08 it's quite nice.

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    1 person likes this.
  13. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Well-Known Member

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    Some people may dismiss and rubbish Y-3 too readily but some stuff in the collections ( especially Exclusives ) definitely have the Yohji vibe and can mix well with the " serious " YYPH/Y's pieces.

    Check out these 2 Exclusive Looks from the Y-3 SS11 Runway, the supersized satin suspender pants in both are Yohji in style. The satin jackets have similar design to the signature Napolean Cubism Jackets of YYPH SS12. So if anything, YYPH line copied ideas from Y-3 from 2 seasons ago.

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  14. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Well-Known Member

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    Precisely the point. If one is shown these 2 pictures and is told they were from a YYPH Runway he will believe it.
     
  15. asobu

    asobu Well-Known Member

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    I think this is an interesting discussion, but I'm not really clear on my thoughts on this. I agree that there is a line where stuff looks off (i guess) or intentionally oversized/non-fitting, but that line is surely very fleeting, in that it shifts with our changing perception, and is obviously very subjective. For the general, non-interested party (general public? I dunno) pretty much any YY collection would look ill-fitting. I disucssed this with Ivwri before but my guess is that even a lot of members on SW&D who generally appreciate the YY looks posted in WAYWT would still slam on pretty much any given look from, say, SS07 if it was presented in WAYWT without the runway frame of reference, and possibly even within this (no judgement here). SS07 is just an example, but it's a pretty recent collection and that stuff is still intentionally and extremely precisely cut/patterened (he's called "Mr Cut" after all, apparently). Going back even further, the older collections (mid 90's to 02/03) would overall pretty much garner the same thoughts across the boards. Patterns and cuts have definitely changed over the years (shouders have narrowed quite a bit in general) but in essence he's still working in the same space. I think here we often want things to look a little "off" or playing with proportions but in general we still want to keep the fit within a certain framework to apprecitate it - once the balance is "too" off we think it doesn't look good anymore, but isn't this part of what he has been doing all along? I'm not sure if I'm coming across clearly here, I'm not really sure myself of what I want to say, lol.

    I personally think that some of the shorter guys look best in Yohji, for me it somehow nails the look I think - wire.artist looked astonishing in person, the balance of what he was wearing was just so good on him. I do like it when a coat is very very long (like david alluded to) or sleeves are on the overly long side.

    For his SS98 show he referenced his one-size approach. The theme was something along the line of "one size for all of mankind" where he showed all the clothes in the same size but with models in various shapes


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    3 people like this.
  16. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Well-Known Member

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    Haha, it's getting more and more interesting. So it's not just oversizeness but HOW MUCH oversizeness one's willing to accept to define fit. I will add fabrics play a huge part in achieving the " look " . Soft hand materials give more " space " in motion, complementing the general oversized cut of the garment. What I mean is two people of the same height; one skinny and the other stocky, will achieve a similar look wearing the same oversized blazer with a flowing fabric.
     
    1 person likes this.
  17. asobu

    asobu Well-Known Member

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    I'm on my phone so I'll keep it short, but there is of course plenty of ways to "modernize" or re-contextualise these older pieces too. This recent, relatively popular tumblr pic is one example - fittingly i'm pretty sure this could be a s/s 98 jacket (given it is yohji):

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    I'm also looking for a jacket like this ! Looking at it again, this actually this isn't far from how some of his mid-90s spring looks looked like
     
  18. the shah

    the shah Well-Known Member

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    that ss98 was incredible :drool:
     
  19. Ivwri

    Ivwri Well-Known Member

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    I agree that I actually prefer Yohji on some shorter guys myself. That whole slouchy/kinda homeless/fit really appeals to me in some way, hehe. Again I will just say that it is all about the attitude for me. My appreciation of Yohji's collections and clothing items in general has altered what I consider to be a good fit to be honest.

    That SS98 collection is indeed incredible and I wish he would do a new iteration of that. Would be nice to see what the passage of time has done to some of his older concepts and whether he would approach them in the same way.

    I do wish he got such varied models for his women's collections though. Would be great to see shorter and chubbier women in his clothing as well instead of the usual slim and tall model.
     
  20. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Well-Known Member

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    Inside the Yohji empire, Limi Feu does use models of different statues for her Runway shows. Her designs are amazing ...... and fun :nodding:
     

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