1. Welcome to the new Styleforum!

    We hope you’re as excited as we are to hang out in the new place. There are more new features that we’ll announce in the near future, but for now we hope you’ll enjoy the new site.

    We are currently fine-tuning the forum for your browsing pleasure, so bear with any lingering dust as we work to make Styleforum even more awesome than it was.

    Oh, and don’t forget to head over to the Styleforum Journal, because we’re giving away two pairs of Carmina shoes to celebrate our move!

    Please address any questions about using the new forum to support@styleforum.net

    Cheers,

    The Styleforum Team

    Dismiss Notice

Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Ivwri, Dec 29, 2011.

  1. asobu

    asobu Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,211
    Joined:
    Feb 18, 2007
    ^Welcome, D! Hope you stick around and bring your knowledge to the thread.
     
  2. bows1

    bows1 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,653
    Joined:
    Apr 27, 2008
    Location:
    Brooklyn
    Damn this thread is like a beacon for Yohji fans :slayer:
     
    1 person likes this.
  3. wireartists

    wireartists Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    75
    Joined:
    May 28, 2008
    

    indeed

    why don't you go all buy YYPH shirts instead, this season is stellar shirting wise
     
  4. stadsvandringar

    stadsvandringar Active Member

    Messages:
    44
    Joined:
    Feb 6, 2012
    I totally agree, I absolutely love his shirts. Going all out with YYPH is of course not in everyone's budget. I personally like to supplement with Y's which is easier on the bank. Also, for those just crossing over I consider the aforementioned brands a good sort of intermediary bridge. It can take some time and effort to become fully immersed, and at least in my case it took a fair amount of time to learn about the different collections and find what does and does not work for me.

    On a different note, does anyone happen to know where to get photos or a video of the complete AW 04-05 collection? It is one of his better ones in my opinion. I know vogue UK has pics, but they've got 48 out of what looks like 78 listed for some reason. Any info is appreciated.
     
  5. Ivwri

    Ivwri Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,512
    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2011
    Yea I agree that for a lot of people the mainline shirts do cost quite a bit and that limits how many one can get, but they are truly excellently made. My problem is that because I got on the wagon late, all I can do at the moment is pick up shirts as they are released with the current seasons and whenever I can find some sold on eBay etc. I am currently in the middle of rebuilding my basics and shirts are definitely a necessity for me right now. Having said that, Y's shirts seem to turn up quite a bit on eBay so definitely looking at that as an alternative source of shirts as well.

    Can't wait to get my hands on the shirts from SS12 though. Some really good stuff as wire said.

    stadsvandringar Welcome to the thread and the forum :D.

    I always thought that the extra blank slots on vogue UK were a mistake because when you check out the same collection on GQ, the extra photo slots are filled up by what looks to be a Tom Ford collection :eek:. When you click on the thumbnails larger images don't show up though so they could be placeholders as opposed to just actual mistakes. Were there actually 78 looks that season?
     
    Last edited: Feb 26, 2012
  6. asobu

    asobu Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,211
    Joined:
    Feb 18, 2007
    Yes, any shirting from YYPH or Y's is great stuff. I love the fit of YYPH shirts, both old and new, and try to get my hands on good ones in good condition whenever I can.

    stadsvandringar, as Ivwri said the pics on Vogue is the full show. The numbering must be some kind of mistake. The collection finished with the Madness dance, one of my favorite segments from any of his shows. I also think this is one of the best fall shows he did in the 00's, some amazing stuff there and it's really a shame that there doesn't seem to be any kind of video or decent quality photos available online. Except for the pics on vogue, I have a few more from the zipper series:


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    2000!
     
    Last edited: Feb 26, 2012
    2 people like this.
  7. ArsenalDan

    ArsenalDan Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    261
    Joined:
    Nov 16, 2010
    A) Great thread, really nice content. Great resource for learning (and seeing) a lot about a great designer.

    B) though I'm not about to wear any YY (I'll be working at a large corporate law firm come fall), it's nonetheless inspiration in terms of silhouette; YY can really be blended with "menswear" in an elegant way, I think...something particularly obvious from the FW12/13 stuff posted recently. Loved that collection for that reason, probably. Really gives me ideas on how to wear the fuller-cut Cucinnelli cords I found at a Goodwill ( for $10 :slayer: )
     
    1 person likes this.
  8. stadsvandringar

    stadsvandringar Active Member

    Messages:
    44
    Joined:
    Feb 6, 2012
    Thanks for the info. 78 looks does seem like a lot for a season, but maybe he was feeling extra prolific or something [​IMG]. That's interesting though, because I've seen a fair amount of material from that season that I guess didn't end up on the runway. The reason I asked in particular is because I just bought a parka from that season and wanted a runway fit pic. Oh well though.

    Also, going back to the footwear discussion, it's my impression that Yohji uses a variety of manufacturers for the shoes, hence the variety quality-wise. The big name collaborations with Dr. Martins, Adidas or George Cox are fairly obvious, but I know he's used the manufacturer for Common Projects among others as well. I've got several pairs of his mainline and Y's tennis shoes which I love and have held up very well. I've handled his dressier shoes but never pulled the trigger. My complaints there are that in more recent seasons (especially AW10) he used a lot of gum soles which I really dislike, or the designs are such blatant copies of other heritage style brands that it's not really worth it.

    Consider the following:

    [​IMG]

    These look just like Danner boots, although perhaps not as nice and definitely not lined in goretex.

    [​IMG]
    Again, the gum sole here is very off-putting, although I would like it much more if it had a normal sole.

    My point here is that other brands' shoes work just as well. I've got some docs, red wings and danner shoes, all of which match of very well.
     
    Last edited: Feb 26, 2012
  9. Caveat

    Caveat Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,937
    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2009
    Which shirt would you recommend from SS12 if you had to pick one that would work well with a variety of his coats? Here are looks 2 and 3 from SS12 and these two look great to me. Thoughts or other recommendations? I'm sure I'm not the only one who wants to experiment with Yohji, but would only wear it enough to need one white shirt at this point.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  10. Master Milano

    Master Milano Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,636
    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2009
    Location:
    New York City
    first one :embar: people need more band collars
     
    2 people like this.
  11. hoozah

    hoozah Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,936
    Joined:
    Dec 13, 2010
    #1 because without the collar it looks more unique than most shirts
     
    1 person likes this.
  12. Parker

    Parker Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    7,755
    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2005
    Location:
    Yerba Buena
    Another Yohji tumblr page. Some nice photos. http://yohjiyamamotolove.tumblr.com/

    I like this casual look:
    [​IMG]



    This show is fun-kay! Sort of 30s jazz age. I like the jacket cuts, esp. these:

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 27, 2012
    1 person likes this.
  13. Ivwri

    Ivwri Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,512
    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2011
    Got my first delivery of SS12 stuff :D!

    Shout out to impolyt_one who made it all possible and for even helping me out with sizing up on an item I would not have (the silk tapered hakamas are a size 5 not my usual 4, but the waist is very adjustable), everything fits just the way I want and the quality is insane.

    The only surprise I encountered, and I shall put it here as a warning to anyone planning on getting the tapered buttoned hem hakama pants (and to a lesser extent, the standard hakamas) -

    Your boxers are going to show through the sides of the pants. They are not fastened with a typical fly but are cinched at the sides with flaps of fabric. Beside the pockets are slits running down where the boxers are supposed to show through. Guess it makes sense now why on the price list there are actual silk boxer shorts available for purchase :eek:. It also explains the vivid colour shown in what I thought was the pocket lining - I was scoping the model's boxers! :embar:

    If you wear a large shirt this should not be a problem, but for smaller jackets and shirts, you may want to bring out your very nice underwear ;) (I shall use a pair of Alexander McQueen skull print silk boxers I have for the moment until I can grab the YY ones).

    My wife thinks the wide hakamas are a bit more ceremonial or formal. I haven't made up my mind yet about how and where I will wear them, but I am pretty sure I will just end up wearing them everywhere as they are damned comfortable in this (100% cotton) iteration.

    Anyway, pics below -

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    100% silk


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    100% cotton


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    100% cotton (pardon the flip-flops, lounging at home)


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    100% cotton


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    100% cotton
     
    13 people like this.
  14. asobu

    asobu Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,211
    Joined:
    Feb 18, 2007
    Fucking epic. Really happy for you man, what a great haul. :slayer: That first shirt is the reversible from L1?
     
  15. KingJulien

    KingJulien Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    5,358
    Joined:
    Sep 7, 2011
    That's really cool, Ivwri. I especially like the first pair. To you guys that wear a lot of YY - do you get a lot of looks/comments on your clothing? I think I'd be self-conscious wearing a lot of it [​IMG].
     
  16. Ivwri

    Ivwri Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,512
    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2011
    

    Thanks dude. And yeah, the first one is indeed the reversible shirt. You were right on the money when you said that it seemed to be going quick. Was sold out already, but Drew was able to get the manager to bring in another one from elsewhere. It also fits oversized if one sizes as normal.


    Well, I do get a lot of second looks whenever I am out and about, but I think the people at my daily haunts are used to seeing me in YY, hehe. When I was in The Gambia though I did get two separate people come up to me to tell me that I was wearing my shirt inside out - I was wearing the raw seam shirt/jacket from AW11. Had to tell them that's how it was supposed to look. My friends are used to me wearing slightly unusual stuff so I don't get much comment beyond simple inquiries etc.
     
    1 person likes this.
  17. wireartists

    wireartists Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    75
    Joined:
    May 28, 2008
    bloody amazing! That shirt on look nº1 shall be mine one day, I've been investing my reduced funds on my furniture design venture and had to stay away from it :(, atelier bought it so there is a slight chance still. congrats!

    I did noticed on the runaway that the hakamas had the "underwear" issue, I do have some silk lining already from some knit pants. The pair I got doesn't show any underwear though. Now I need one pair with elastic waist.

    I took the resolution of buying only wool gabardine from now on after checking again aw94YYfemme, endless slight variations is the perfect uniform.

    I wore the hakamas twice already (0ºc-5ºc) using some long socks. I was surprised how people really didn't noticed them, they are very elegant indeed. I wore them with a blue shirt/green belt/monkey boots + long coat and massive shawl and the day after with a slim white shirt tucked in from ss07.

    They re-stocked the cotton hakamas in japan (price was amazing), btw looking at your fit I can tell I'm a fucking dwarf compared to you lol. I do love how it fits on me though.

    Regarding people's opinions...mmm in my experience the more confident you are the less they notice you are wearing unconventional clothing. I live in Berlin now and in a windy day, the hakamas + long coat where quite the show and no one really stared at me haha
     
  18. Ivwri

    Ivwri Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,512
    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2011
    

    I wish I could do something similar, but I am too weak. The idea of missing out on silks, linens and various blends would drive me nuts :embar:

    Your fit with the hakamas sounds awesome. Wish you had a pic, especially of when the wind picked up :slayer:

    You're also perfectly right. If you are confident and act like you're not wearing anything particularly odd (unless you ARE wearing something really out there) no one will notice, and even if they do, they will not just mock you off the bat and instead be curious at the very least. But, even if anyone says anything, it doesn't matter.

    Wearing Yohji (or any high fashion designer for that matter) can be about showing one's outsider status and with the way Yohji's clothes typically are, one is so comfortable wearing them that there's no room to be self-conscious at all :nodding:
     
  19. wireartists

    wireartists Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    75
    Joined:
    May 28, 2008
    for me is quite easy since 70% of my wardrobe is already gabardine lol. seriously, i love some tweeds and those will be the exception.
     
  20. MyMindSpray

    MyMindSpray Active Member

    Messages:
    27
    Joined:
    Sep 2, 2006
    Ivwri....that cardigan/jacket looks amazing....how does it handle in real life?
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by