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Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Ivwri, Dec 29, 2011.

  1. zapatiste

    zapatiste Well-Known Member

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    David you weren't kidding ! what an adventure ...
    lot of amazing pics, but here i thought somehow you managed to warp time around yourself, bringing it to a standstill while the rest of the world whirled on apparently knowing no better.
     
    1 person likes this.
  2. StevenE

    StevenE Well-Known Member

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    This is so beautiful.
     
  3. kingsolomon

    kingsolomon Member

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    David, all of that looks and sounds absolutely phenomenal. Green with envy.

    I loves this collection. A lot of very wearable pieces and I think it's a strong continuation of the already established Yohji summer look that's been going on for the last few ss.
    In the fallout of this I was a little saddened that almost 30 years later wwd's discourse hasn't gotten any better with a reliance on Orientalist tropes.
    This is the article http://www.wwd.com/runway/mens-spring-collections-2014/review/yohji-yamamoto and these are some from the 80s http://organization.tumblr.com/post/49144009970/comme-des-garcons-ah-the-delicately-winning and http://organization.tumblr.com/post/51260497146/but-it-definitely-had-its-redemptive-elements-in
     
  4. pickpackpockpuck

    pickpackpockpuck Well-Known Member

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    David, the pic of you with the man himself put a very big smile on my face. :)
     
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  5. stadsvandringar

    stadsvandringar Active Member

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    A bit late in posting this, but I went down to my local Yohji shop (Nagoya) over the weekend. SS13 is already at 40% off Japanese retail and will likely stay that way until they decide to clear everything out for the new collection. The selection wasn't too bad, although not amazing either. I think this is more a function of the Nagoya shop rather than the sale itself. I'll confirm when I visit Tokyo in two weeks. Regulation for men is in, although the selection is very small right now, basically just two complete suits and two basic tee shirts from what I saw. Regulation prices are similar to Y's before it ended: around 70,000 yen for a jacket, 30,000 yen for pants. I think they had a simple white button down for around 16,000 yen or so. Quality was great of course, but no sale reductions on the regulation. It will be interesting to see how they're going to expand the collection.
     
  6. zapatiste

    zapatiste Well-Known Member

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    nothing exciting, just comfort today.

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    SS12 dark green/khaki ramie cap
    Y's SHIRTS patchwork shirt (with a big velvety patch in middle lol)
    SS12 (i assuming) green/khaki cotton trousers in very light material, though not at all like the cotton on my other pair of ss12 sand/khaki trousers with exposed seams.
    oliver peoples japan-made vintage frames
    vans
     
    Last edited: Jul 1, 2013
    8 people like this.
  7. Benesyed

    Benesyed Well-Known Member

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  8. dantebykiko

    dantebykiko Well-Known Member

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    hand carved. spent almost 2 hours at the showroom today checking the garments. couture level details and fabrics.
     
  9. StevenE

    StevenE Well-Known Member

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    OK then. Best collection ever. That's settled.








    (I hope...)
     
  10. Ivwri

    Ivwri Well-Known Member

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    Really liked what I have seen of the show so far, but waiting until I see some video for a final "verdict".

    The colours, fabrics and layers are all pretty cool. Looking forward to handling this stuff in person :D.


    While I was looking for the show on YouTube I came across this gem, a video for Yohji Yamamoto Pour Homme Spring/Summer 1987 -


    [VIDEO][/VIDEO]
     
    2 people like this.
  11. Ivwri

    Ivwri Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]
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    Jacket - YYPH HT-J67-046 100% cotton (I suspect SS07 cos of the placement of a double row of buttons & button holes running down the side. Reminds me of some of the jackets with a similar outline running down their sides as well). Picked up this jacket off Y! a while back and truly it has become my go to jacket for everything. Goes best with cropped pants in my humble opinion, but it absolutely works with almost everything. Five buttons down the front with a clip at the top of the collar to do it up completely. Ten buttons down each side with twenty button holes running in parallel allowing for a tighter buttoning profile or a looser one. The side view picture should show how they are laid out I think. All nice Yohji buttons with the reverse detail on all buttons.

    Tshirt - YYPH 100% cotton tshirt. Can't remember season now, probably AW10. Basic substantial cotton tshirt.

    Belt - Comme des Garçons Homme Plus suede belt with gold topstitching SS11.

    Pants - YYPH HE-P10-100 (probably AW08). The 100 gaba wool is slightly dryer than I am used to, but still the typical trans-seasonal fabric with great drape. I don't think these are supposed to be cropped actually as these ones are a size 2! Humongous waist as I need to wear them with a belt. I like the cropped look though so no problems. They have three pockets down the left side one side pocket and two flap pockets on top of that, doesn't come through really well in the pictures I don't think, but it is a great detail and allows one to distribute pocket load without spoiling the shape of the pants. Thanks again Kiko :slayer:

    Sandals - Burberry Prorsum SS11

    EDIT - Aitor Throup Shiva skull bag DSM edition. Black with grey pinstripes, waterproof zippers with two compartments (one in the mouth and the other on the head of the skull). Goes perfectly with Yohji wardrobe hehe. Is also deceptively big. Can easily take a small notebook, wallet and pens or most of the smaller micro four-thirds cameras. (Again, Kiki hooked it up!)
     
    Last edited: Jul 3, 2013
    9 people like this.
  12. jplay51

    jplay51 Well-Known Member

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    yo do you guys get friends to take these pictures, or are you asking strangers? I used to have a bunch of photo journalism friends in school, and they'd take pictures of absolutely everything and everyone all the time, esp if someone was dressed well. but now i would have to ask a stranger or try to coach a current friend through shooting...[​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 3, 2013
  13. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Well-Known Member

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    Cool look Ivwri, you forgot to mention the supercool AT Shiva Bag and the cool walls :)

    I can verify your jacket is SS07 since I have the sz 2 Look 40 3B lapel blazer in military green with identical semi-detachable side panels but the code is HT-J68-047... 100% cotton, no idea why yours is 046...

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    Really liking these slouchy Overall + Blazer/Coat combos from SS07 lately.

    [​IMG][​IMG]

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    YYPH SS10 Fedora Hat - ( HJ-H03-965 ) - black, 100% polypropylene

    YYPH SS07 Suspender Coat ( HT-C06-046 ) - non-Runway piece, size 2, 100% soft hand cotton. Trick shoulder panels and apertures for the optional integrated suspender look.

    YYPH SS07 Look 22 Overall - ( HT-D01-092 ) - in black, size 2, 100% cotton. A killer piece and a grail.

    YYPH AW05 LS Tee - ( HN-T59-063 ) - 100% cotton, white, size 1.

    YY x Adidas AW08 Leather/Fabric YY G8 Zip Boots ( HE-E02-721 ) - size 2.

    These pictures were taken a long while ago, still recovering atm from Paris.
     
    Last edited: Jul 6, 2013
    1 person likes this.
  14. Ivwri

    Ivwri Well-Known Member

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    @jplay51 I take my photos myself most of the time. Self-timer plus a good surface to place the camera tends to work great. Other than that, my wife or rarely other people, just friends etc.

    @david Yeah! I think I forget about this bag often. Carry it everywhere now. Think I should look out for another one this coming AW13 season so I can do camera in one then other effects in the other hehe (I wish!). Wall will be introduced when it is good and ready ;)

    Also, thanks for the confirmation on the jacket. You are still making me envious with your overalls!
     
    Last edited: Jul 3, 2013
  15. zapatiste

    zapatiste Well-Known Member

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    Awesome looks guys !

    @jplay51 I usually find a flat surface or have a tripod (I take photos as often as I can, and mostly not of myself :p ) and then find a good spot to set manual focus and exposure length, set timer and go!
     
    1 person likes this.
  16. myname

    myname Active Member

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    Ivwri, I can confirm that this is SS07 as I have the same one (but in green) - purchased at the Aoyama shop during the SS07 season.
    Sounds like yours will see some heavy use as well.
     
    Last edited: Jul 3, 2013
    1 person likes this.
  17. zapatiste

    zapatiste Well-Known Member

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    Visited the Great Smokey Mountains over long weekend, no bears spotted despite my best efforts :-/

    Received several items lately, here is AW06 wool trousers simliar to what DavidLee had worn some time back, though I think there are even more pockets on mine ! The gently flap with each stride, as if carrying me along...perhaps like a dragonfly :)

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG][​IMG]

    cotton/wool/linen :: Damir Doma ss11
    metal :: Oliver Peoples vintage madeinjapan
    linen :: Uniqlo
    wool :: YYPH aw06
    canvas/rubber :: Cons

    [​IMG]
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    4 people like this.
  18. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Well-Known Member

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    Great pants, yours are Look 8 with the Fencing Blazer, mine Look 9. Very nice wool gabardine ain't it? Yours are better imo and even better worn cropped :)
     
  19. dantebykiko

    dantebykiko Well-Known Member

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    never learned how to do "runway" look. damn.
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    5 people like this.
  20. spacepope

    spacepope Well-Known Member

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    Cross post from WAYWT

     
    4 people like this.

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