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Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Ivwri, Dec 29, 2011.

  1. chinesealpha

    chinesealpha Well-Known Member

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    I think slim/fitted is just one of a number of menswear rabbit holes. For most guys in decent shape, even mall-level clothes of said persuasion are a step in the right direction. Relaxed clothing below the SF-approved level (e.g. Yohji, Harnden, Cabourn, EG, etc.) is generally brutal. Think casual fridays, gangsta warmup suits and logo tees, early-to-mid 2000s skate / snowboard wear, electronics salesmen. Fitted clothing is pretty accessible and not overly terrifying to someone trying to upgrade their look. Dark tapered jeans, proper t-shirt, fitted button down, non-obnoxious footwear... done. Add a sweater and a pea coat for F/W. Charcoal blazersuit and tie for weddings, decent restaurants, and third dates.

    In contrast, pulling off a loose and flowy wardrobe with substance requires a much thicker wallet and/or balls of steel. And quite possibly a forgiving partner and an open-minded social circle. I would surmise that one would need to either be already living or assiduously craft a lifestyle befitting the wardrobe.
     
    3 people like this.
  2. Arche

    Arche Well-Known Member

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    Has anyone seen in person this jacket/poncho from YYPH 2010? I'm intrigued to know what the construction is like, and whether it would have the habit of constantly slipping off your left shoulder when unbuttoned. In this photo, there is a vest underneath. So I'm wondering: Is the vest a part of the jacket, which helps to anchor the poncho half? Or is this just a separate vest that the model is wearing underneath?


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  3. dantebykiko

    dantebykiko Well-Known Member

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    tried it in tokyo. annoying piece, you can't really use your right-hand as its always covered.

     
  4. dantebykiko

    dantebykiko Well-Known Member

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    where do you live? such a boring post.
     
    1 person likes this.
  5. pickpackpockpuck

    pickpackpockpuck Well-Known Member

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    Hah!

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    http://organization.tumblr.com/
     
    3 people like this.
  6. PregnantBob

    PregnantBob Well-Known Member

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    Would people mind if I started posting Yohji fits? Either actual Yohji or inspired by types?

    This thread already has great contributions and just wanted to add more that I've found from other places around the ol interweb.
     
    2 people like this.
  7. esox

    esox Well-Known Member

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  8. kingsolomon

    kingsolomon Member

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    I really hate that quote, "It's ethnic, that's all". Frankly, I still surprised at how much the orientalist framing of Rei and Yohji in the 80s has continued to this day.
     
  9. captainfalcon

    captainfalcon Well-Known Member

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    Interesting thoughts, but I don't really agree that you have to spend thousands of dollars to look good in loose clothing.
     
  10. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Well-Known Member

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    I agree that you didn't agree lol. Let's assume you have to spend $$$ to buy into the Yohji aesthetics ( you don't necessarily if you spend some time searching on Y! ) but the pieces you end up acquiring are so timeless, a kind of anti-fashionable fashion so your investment is well worth it in the long run. I still get excited about winning his stuff on Y! that are practically more than 5 years, or even 10 years old. Sometimes they get/feel even better when broken in :)
     
    Last edited: Apr 30, 2013
  11. Arche

    Arche Well-Known Member

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    I recently took a risk and purchased a size 3 of that SS2009 cotton/silk jacket that Ivwri also has. I've been waiting for one of the Dr. Y Y suits to turn up, this is such a beautiful piece, and the measurements looked like it might just fit me, so I thought I'd give it a try. It arrived today, and to my great disappointment, it just doesn't fit right. The sleeve length is perfect, and the chest fine, but somehow with my particular body shape, it feels uncomfortably tight around the shoulders, the arm holes, and the lats. Unless I quit working out, and become a fair bit thinner in those areas, which is unlikely, this just won't feel right. Damn! Anyway, I'm going to think about it a bit, but I thought I would do an interest check with people here, before I consider putting it on Ebay. The jacket is identical to Ivwri's, same colour, size 3, and in perfect condition (I can post some pictures, including a fit, soon). If you think you might be interested, send me a PM for more details. I'm also open to a swap, if, by some miracle, somebody has a size 4, either of this (in either the undyed or the black version), or of one of the black Dr. Y Y jackets, and would prefer a 3. Since that is very unlikely, I'll probably have to sell it. I'm not sure if the sizing on Dr. Y Y jackets is as fitted as on this one, so maybe a size 3 of those would fit me better (one of the versions on the runway does look baggier).

    http://www.styleforum.net/content/type/61/id/691260/width/500/height/1000/flags/LL
     
    Last edited: May 2, 2013
  12. kgfan5

    kgfan5 Well-Known Member

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    bought this jacket several weeks back with the intention of experimenting new brands/ designers/ cuts etc. its my first yohji piece and i'm trying to figure out how to wear it or if it even works with my aesthetics. any thoughts? jacket is yyph, aa tee, damir pants with a slight drop crotch and guidi shoes.

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    8 people like this.
  13. slstr

    slstr Well-Known Member

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    That looks really great, KG.
    The only thing I would do is roll, not fold the pants, maybe roll them a little higher or just let them fall. But I'm just being picky. Great stuff.
     
  14. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Well-Known Member

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    That is a good, no, GREAT, YYPH AW04 Snap Blazer you have there. Is the material canvas like cotton and unlined? You can fold the bottom panel up with snap buttons, not tried it yet?

    It also fits you, in my opinion, perfectly in a Yohji oversized kind of way, the sleeves especially are exactly how I like my stuff to fit me :)
     
    Last edited: May 4, 2013
    1 person likes this.
  15. kgfan5

    kgfan5 Well-Known Member

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    thanks slstr! i knew the hems looked off but had no idea what to do with them. will take your advice and roll ( not fold:embar: ) them higher next time.
     
  16. kgfan5

    kgfan5 Well-Known Member

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    david yes material is canvas like cotton unlined. to be honest its a bit out of my comfort zone still as there are a lot of volume all around. something to be expected and get used to.

    edit: no haven't tried folding the panel yet.
     
    Last edited: May 4, 2013
  17. conceptionist

    conceptionist Well-Known Member

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    That's a very nice look.
    Exactly what I've been wanting to wear for the last weeks, down to the brands and all.

    Take a look at Ghostface's latest WAYWT fits. He has some great stuff in the same aesthetic.
     
  18. kgfan5

    kgfan5 Well-Known Member

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    thanks. ya prolly should've mentioned it from the get-go. i was definitely channeling in my inner ghostface. down to the tee. :slayer:
     
  19. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG][​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    YYPH AW09 Look 3 Hat - ( HZ-H05-127 ) - in black, 95/5 wool/nylon, 57 cm.

    YYPH AW05 Look 4 Patch Pocket Blazer - ( HN-J27-121 ) - deep black 50/45/5 cotton/wool/nylon blend, non-woven fabric. Size 2, 2/3 body and full sleeves lined in cupro with 2 inside pockets. Bespoke silver flat metal buttons, 3B closure with notch lapels. 1B working sleeves. Back " strap " above long back pleat lending a waisted silhouette. 2 bottom + left chest expandable patch flapped pockets.

    YYPH SS97 Waistcoat - ( HU-V07-241 ) - in black soft hand 100% rayon, unlined. Size M with a flared out silhouette, adjustable back waist buckled strap. 6 horn button closure with a 1B shirt collar in 100% felt like cotton. Same material covers the borders of the front panels. 2 inside pockets + 4 outside slit pockets.

    YYPH SS09 Look 15 Leather Insert Pants ( HV-P07-114 ) - 100% wool gabardine, size 3, huge waist and super baggy, front pleated. 2 back pocket flaps, and darts on knee side buttoned pockets in leather.

    SS Tee, CDG H+ Belt, CAUSE SHOES x George Cox 7 eyelet monkey boots in black leather.
     
    Last edited: May 4, 2013
    5 people like this.
  20. Ivwri

    Ivwri Well-Known Member

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    Nothing else to add kgfan5 other than I really like that look! Good stuff.

    David, great outfit as well. Love the 40s/50s vibe of the front pic. That hat is gonna take you places :slayer:


    So this is my photo contribution for today guest starring my daughter and a new-ish look for me!


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    I just got these ancient Yohji pants via Y! and unfortunately, the cleaners I use decided to wash them in the machine instead of following the drycleaning instructions. Anyway, it resulted in some weird chalk-like streaking all over the pants (and they are such a lovely shade of blue too :( ). Instead of crying over it, I decided to see whether they could still work as they are. They also look/feel best worn high like I am doing so here, but I want to get all your opinions on whether they work like this or not.

    Not sure what season they are (although at one point I did think they might be "fake" Yohji since they do not have the usual fabric code, but the logo looks like the old style logo so maybe it could be pretty old? Anyway I will leave that discussion to rest for now, lol)


    Details -

    Blazer - YYPH SS10 linen jacket
    Shirt - YYPH AW11 double collar + extra placket cotton shirt
    Pants - YYPH (???) deep - blue rayon pants
    Shoes - Marsell shoes
     
    Last edited: May 5, 2013
    22 people like this.

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