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Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Ivwri, Dec 29, 2011.

  1. FlyingMonkey

    FlyingMonkey Well-Known Member

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    I don't have any as yet. I'm here to learn (and envy!). I have various bits of traditional and modern Japanese clothing which draw on similar ideas, and I did just buy something from Coming Soon, but that's going straight back.
     
  2. cupper

    cupper Well-Known Member

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    Got a big (for me hehe) Yohji shipment. :happy: I keep wanting to touch the fabrics. :drool:

    The pants I got hoping to match my jacket are not the same color, more closer to white actually but they should be from around the same time and I think they'll work well together. They have the same fabric blend and even the buttons are the same, beautiful blond horn(I think).

    I don't know if the Y's wool gabardine is the same as YYPH but damn :worship2:

    Also got a CDGH+ silk/cotton jacket from 1997 that's pretty awesome too, I think it'll go well with Yohji pants.
     
  3. the shah

    the shah Well-Known Member

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    that would be same as this !

    [​IMG]
     
  4. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    YYPH AW09 Look 6 Reversible Blazer ( HZ-Y19-004 ) - Size 2, Y- code? Anyway, 100% dry hand medium grade cotton. Navy, navy Yohji buttons, navy exposed stitches. 4B closure with small notch lapels, single buttoned working sleeves. Sharp, sloped shoulder line, short blazer, 4 patch pockets. Reversible, sleeves become white cupro with black stripes and navy cuffs. navy front cotton panels overlaid with black 90/10 wool/nylon inserts. 4 black patch pockets of the same fabric, 3 with buttons. Black wool/nylon back panel with Yohji's usual mystical texts ( naval/maritime themed? ). Great fit and exemplary construction.

    YYPH AW10 4.1 The Men Buttoned Cuff Pants ( HC- P06-023 ) - posted before, 60/40 cotton/linen brushed fabric. Navy, size 2 huge waist, oversized, ballooning silhouette with adjustable buttoned tapered cuffs.

    Y-3 Hejarklack black leather Hi-top sneakers.

    Basic SS Tee and CDG H+ belt.
     
    Last edited: Aug 24, 2012
    3 people like this.
  5. the shah

    the shah Well-Known Member

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    David i love that silhouette especially the rounding of the trousers and the shoes look great here too

    What can you guys tell me about these two jackets (one on left is i believe ss10, HY code)
    Even though dbl breasted is size 4 on a normally size 3 it looks very slim!

    [​IMG][​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Aug 25, 2012
  6. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks Mr Shah :)

    The one on the left is SS05 ( HY- ) , this is one of comma.comma's right?

    The right one is an iteration of the Handstitched Series in AW08. I have the navy one ( you can read the post way way back ). I think the Handstitched blazers/suits were available then in 3 colours ( black, grey and navy ) Black was made from 100 gabardine, grey was a silk tweed and navy a wool/cotton blend. The cut was indeed very snug in the chest and ultra-long at the sleeves. I needed a sz 3 and had the sleeves expertly altered in HK. Lovely handstitched 3D effects on lapels, pocket flaps and shoulder seams. Mailmoth's one was ex-Wire's right? I was completely astounded how the runway models could layer them with a tartan blazer ( i have that piece too ) underneath...... super skinny :slayer:

    Asobu was selling his SB one then, ask him for more info :)
     
    Last edited: Aug 25, 2012
  7. the shah

    the shah Well-Known Member

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    yeah comma. (not *) comma hehe two seller accounts on ebay for some reason. what's his facebook page ? he once told me he lists stuff there too but i never found it...i have to contact him, i am tempted by it ! you're right SS05 i donno why I said 10. I imagine it is very light-weight.

    I wish M-M was selling the one in navy but I'll likely take it in black anyway, and his is size 4 so it should fit. Too bad it's not ultra voluminous as I still lack anything like that, Y's jackets are slim as well hehe
    It's very slightly damaged but he mended it a 1cm tear in the flap so I can live with that. 100 gabardine always sounds so lovely.

    I didn't even notice the buttoned cuffs on the trousers you had, maybe that's what's creating the ( ) shape tapering them back down at the bottom. It's such a great silhouette, I know you've posted a lot of lovely things but i think in terms of shape this is my favorite (from what i can remember :eek: )
     
  8. fireflygrave

    fireflygrave Well-Known Member

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    I took some pictures of the jacket i got in. They're not super great; i lost part of my tripod so these were a pain to take. When I get a replacement part i'll take pictures outside. The jacket looks great in person and it's super comfy as well. Like ivwri and a lot of others said, wearing it feels great, like something you always owned :happy:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I know the pictures aren't good, but I was too excited not to post something! :devil:
     
  9. Parker

    Parker Well-Known Member

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    ^ congrats there, firefly. now it's time for some yohji pants! :) I always just put my little p+s camera on a wall or newspaper box. the outdoor light helps a ton with detail.



    thanks. I think it's a 46 which would be about a size 2 YY equivalent. I would have gone for the 48 if they had it, but I can still button this without a problem. length and sleeves are plenty long, but the shoulders are narrower than ideal on me.



    that's a good idea! maybe when I'm not too lazy :)



    that's a good idea, too. I think the shirt would be better with a long open cardigan knit.
     
  10. fireflygrave

    fireflygrave Well-Known Member

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    hakama pants are on the way! cant wait til they get here!
     
  11. FlyingMonkey

    FlyingMonkey Well-Known Member

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    That's odd. It sounds to me like yours fits more in the Japanese way, and 2 would normally fit me exactly like that - narrower on the shoulders but okay in the chest, but the CS jacket I got (which was listed as international S and was Made in Italy and described as fitting larger than the listed size), was fine in the shoulders but too tight in the chest, in other words a standard 'fashion S' size, not really what I was expecting from anything Yohji at all.
     
  12. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Well-Known Member

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    I doubt if Yohji had any, if at all, input on the designs. But one cannot make an accurate assessment based on one piece. CS did have some very roomy Tees and some trousers were quite voluminous.

    I take it you obtained yours from Yoox.com? I wouldn't pay too much attention to its descriptions. When I buy from Yoox, I usually choose pieces that have multiple sizes so order two sizes, try them properly and return the one ( or both! ) that doesn't fit. FOC.
     
  13. FlyingMonkey

    FlyingMonkey Well-Known Member

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    Sounds like a good strategy. I usually avoid Yoox. But I guess if I ever try them again, that is what I'll do.
     
  14. Ivwri

    Ivwri Well-Known Member

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    Congrats firefly! Looking forward to you getting your hakamas as well, hehe :).

    Thought I would post this here. I am working on a publication (with Parker's more than able assistance!) and had a photoshoot for it yesterday. Second-half is going to be today (this time I will be in front of the lens :embar:) and will probably post a pic or two from that as well.


    Got the YY jacket from kiko for my wife (thanks again man!) and the skirt is Limi Feu, also my wife's.


    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Aug 27, 2012
    1 person likes this.
  15. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Well-Known Member

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    Ivwri, your wife's fit is lovely. That jacket has lovely flare accentuated by the belt, and Limi Feu is my wife's favourite designer as well along with her father of course. Are there some trick details on that skirt's hem or just the camera angle?

    Anyway I like to champion Y's with this:-

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    Y's SS09 Contrast Stripe Blazer ( MV-J12-306 ) - 100% linen. Extremely light, almost see-thru fabric with an intended wrinkle quality ( see pics ). Size 3, because of the wrinkled nature, the blazer fits smaller ( an illusion ) and whilst very roomy in body ( more YYPH than Y's ), sleeves fit perfectly. Completely unlined ( hence almost weightless ) with one inside pocket. Deep black, notch lapels with a 3B Yohji button closure, 3B non-working sleeves. 2 chest ( very unusal ) and 2 bottom patch pockets. Bright white linen stripes on lapels and front panels, white linen under collar as well. The blazer doesn't drape that much ( that wrinkly stuff again ) but holds its voluminous silhouette so well. The darkest black fabric coupled with the strategically placed white stripes lend the blazer that " Y's Booster ". A truly magnificent piece for summer. Regret I didn't buy the matching pants in London at the time.

    YYPH SS09 Drawstring Pants ( HV-P14-031 ) - Size 3, 100% cotton. Thin, shirting fabric. Wide, drawstring waist with belt loops. Drawstring at wide hems. 2 large front patch pockets, the left one with 3D fabric extension at the side. 2 large patch pockets at the back.

    YYPH SS09 Patent Leather Sneakers ( HV-E04-754 ) Size 2, black patent leather, 7 eyelet closure, beautiful laces. Rubber soles with white accents on the edge to complement the blazer.

    Basic SS Tee.

    [FONT=verdana, tahoma, arial, sans-serif]Some people remark Y's quality has dipped after so and so season. Well imo apart from the change in cuts ( slimmer ) I challenge that notion. Pieces from SS08, AW08, this one and up to AW09 that I have are very well made. Of course those people are entitled to their opinion. Wonder if they have stuff they own or have handled to back their view.....[/FONT]
     
    Last edited: Aug 27, 2012
    1 person likes this.
  16. snowmanxl

    snowmanxl Well-Known Member

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    Awesome stuff guys! Looking forward to seeing the finished product :slayer:
    What's the publication for?
     
  17. Ivwri

    Ivwri Well-Known Member

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    Thanks david, glad you like. The model is not my wife though! We just raided my wife's wardrobe, hehe. Styling is by my wife and myself. The hem of the skirt just looks funky cos of the angle. Pretty straightforward in person. The model's my friend and it's her first time doing something like this. She's a definite natural in front of the lens so I expect I might end up using her for at least one more shoot I have in mind.

    @snow I am planning it as a counter-culture type of thing. Photography, prose fiction, essays, graphic design, art, reviews etc. Hopefully it will be cool. I think I have some interesting interviews lined up for this and the next issue so should be interesting for non-Nigerians too if all goes well.

    EDIT - Thanks to this thread I have seen a lot of Y's pieces that I would love to have in my wardrobe. At the moment I only own three Y's pieces - a slim fitting shirt, a pair of sneakers and a pair of boots. Was initially not too fond of the brand because loads of the pieces I saw in person and online seemed to fit pretty slim. I have been keeping an eye out for more items now though thanks to various Y's fits. That jacket you just posted for example looks really versatile and would be a nice "go to" jacket to throw on top of something and head out the door. Seems to capture one of the things I really like about Yohji's stuff which is their "down for whatever" spirit.
     
    Last edited: Aug 27, 2012
  18. dantebykiko

    dantebykiko Well-Known Member

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  19. Ivwri

    Ivwri Well-Known Member

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    Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaah (fan girl shriek). So much awesomeness! Why wasn't I there?? :(.

    You all look great! Has asobu left yet?

    EDIT - For someone who doesn't like taking photos wireartist always has so much swag in them. The shot of the three of you is great. Nice bench too :p. not sure this post is gonna be topped until we all meet up for FW13 or something, hehe.
     
    Last edited: Aug 27, 2012
    1 person likes this.
  20. dantebykiko

    dantebykiko Well-Known Member

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    yes. fw13, all in paris. and after that all in nigeria for summer swag :D
     

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