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Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Ivwri, Dec 29, 2011.

  1. dantebykiko

    dantebykiko Well-Known Member

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    completed.

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    6 people like this.
  2. Broder

    Broder Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]

    eagerly awaiting a picture of you wearing it! stunning pattern and colours, it looks so animated in the photos
     
  3. Master Milano

    Master Milano Well-Known Member

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    Damn it's always nice to have a full suit.

    On a side note do you mind me asking where you got the helmut lang bomber :) ( saw it on your tumblr)
     
  4. Parker

    Parker Well-Known Member

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    nice floral suit, dante! and glad you got the pants mr. shah.
    thx, cupper. that's in the interior courtyard, so I guess it is not as exposed to the elements. the panels are still kind of fresh. the exterior of the building is a really dark brown/charcoal now, no green yet. it's a pretty cool building and striking in its size and presence in the setting. there was a lot of opposition to tearing down the old mission style structure, but i'm so glad they did. it's one of my favorite places in the city.
    :) totally understand. I like to experiment, not always with success. you're right, a more yohji cut suit or jacket at least would make it more coherent. I was going for something like these, but trying to make do with what's in my closet.
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    Last edited: Aug 18, 2012
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  5. dantebykiko

    dantebykiko Well-Known Member

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    i would have to agree parker. the suit it's quite "stiff" for those cover pants and look like it's been trapped between them and the hat. also on the second reference you see how the cover pants are much shorter than yours. anyway, nothing wrong with trying stuff out, hopefully you felt great in the outfit.

    here it's the suit fit. there are few things i'm not 100% happy about. the pants are the one from look 1 not the full length version and they are shade darker. i assume the jacket was washed by the previous owner and faded little bit. the fabric it's very delicate! i will wash the trousers and see if they will change, however the purpose of the suit it's more as "art" piece rather than garment, i might wear it only couple of times per year.

    ps: the bomber jacket belongs to my boss (errolson hugh). purchase back in 2004? from hl munich flagship store. the most amazing bomber jacket i've seen in my life.


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    Last edited: Aug 18, 2012
    10 people like this.
  6. snowmanxl

    snowmanxl Well-Known Member

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    whoa!! you work for errolson hugh?!?
    have any acronym you dont want :devil:
     
    1 person likes this.
  7. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Well-Known Member

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    Kiko, I think your investment has paid off. That floral suit needs someone with an attitude ( in a good way ) to pull off. Without offending anyone, can't think of none other than you on this Forum to do them justice.

    I assume the blazer and the pants came from different sellers, hence the colour difference? That's a shame cos the pattern is really striking. My wife bought a shoulder bag made of the same Look 1 fabric whilst we were at V&A last year and she certainly thought this was the best looking fabric among other versions on sale at the time.

    Are the pieces size 2 or 3?
     
  8. Ivwri

    Ivwri Well-Known Member

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    Congrats dante! What's the fabric? From pictures it didn't look that delicate so pretty interested to know what it feels like. You should PM me with the fabric codes so I can add it to the spreadsheet :). Shame about the pants being shorts instead.

    Pants look good shah. I thought they were the ones with the raw seams down the sides but I guess not. White Anns look a lot better than the black ones for sure and they work well with the pants there.

    And yeah cupper I actually haven't forgotten about doing the top 5 I just haven't had the opportunity to do a proper photo in a while. Would rather not just shoot in my living room, haha. If tomorrow is sunny will try and see about putting something up. I am torn now though, these AW08 pants are glorious and so they are competing with my AW11 wool gab pants for top pants slot. Hehe.

    EDIT - Sorry david, forgot to reply to your question earlier. The pants do have a pocket at the bottom of the leg. No button though just a flap and the pocket itself. I guess one could keep emergency money inside it or something, haha.
     
    Last edited: Aug 18, 2012
  9. dantebykiko

    dantebykiko Well-Known Member

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    the blazer it's from yahoo in size 2 and the trousers asobu showed me them on yoox. he was kind enough to do swedish proxy for me as they appeared only on swedish yoox. funny. they are size 4 because i wanted them to be as long as possible [​IMG]. doesn't really make much sense the color of the fabric to be different but i assume as i said that the blazer been washed or worn/left on sun exposure for long long time. that's what alfonso guessed. i know this bag and it was part of the plan to buy one and use the fabric to make the length of the trousers longer, but i won't go that far as i like them as they are.

    ivwri, the fabric it's cotton 035, on the distributing it's saying "due to the characteristic of this yarn the stitches may easily loosen or tear, avoid any friction when wearing or cleaning". which explain why when i worn the jacket with very heavy ro tote bag, after few rubbing on the shoulder there it's tiny fading. definitely not everyday chilling in the park suit.
     
    Last edited: Aug 18, 2012
  10. the shah

    the shah Well-Known Member

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    see i told you the photo sucks , they have raw seems everywhere ! i guess i should take some closeups and do a proper fit at some point. but they're too comfy to take off :laugh:
     
  11. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Well-Known Member

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    SS06 Set Up ( Kiko, you can see for yourself [​IMG] ) This is my " very very good " stuff.

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    YYPH SS06 Look 18 Garment Dyed Blazer ( HR-J01-328 ) - it's nothing baseball series about this, more like military... 40/35/25 linen/cotton/nylon blend, unique fabric, light but not too soft hand, feels like rayon without the sheen. Size 3, boxy fit = comfort and Yohji silhouette. Horn buttons, 3B cutaway style closure. Additional 2 buttons on notch lapels for the stand collar look. Buttoned shoulder tabs, buttoned non-working sleeves. Half-body lined in fabric, sleeves in cupro. 2 chest and 2 bottom buttoned flap pockets for the uniform, symmetrical look. Fit is simply superb. Subtle but distinctive large dyed beige/grey patches on left sleeve, right front and back panels. Pictures don't do it justice. Military meets Art. A terrific piece in my view.

    YYPH SS06 metal button pants ( HR-P14-005 ) - posted before, matching pants for the Look 9 blazer. Size 2 hilariously wide waisted, 100% medium grade cotton. Metal button for closure and right back pocket.

    YYPH AW11 Monkey Boots - ( HP-E05-754 ) Size 2, military boots echo the military inspired blazer

    Basic SS Tee + CDG H+ Belt
     
    Last edited: Aug 18, 2012
    5 people like this.
  12. Ivwri

    Ivwri Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the code dude, will add them to the list. I take it it is the same fabric for both pants and jacket? Think I also saw those same pants on US Yoox as well a while back. Speaking of Yoox, I really do not like their new site design. Really horrible.
    Ah ok. Heh, so many times I just delete fit photos when they don't capture details I am interested in on the clothing. I feel you on pants that are too comfy to take off! I had to get myself a nice pair of lounge pants so I don't end up sleeping and hanging around the house in Yohji all the time :D.
    That jacket is so nice! I am really keeping my eyes out for a jacket with a cut like that. The print looks really nice too. SS06 has so many gems in it.
     
  13. surver

    surver Well-Known Member

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    just came across this:

    Yohji JEANS

    EDWIN and designer Yohji Yamamoto combine their efforts in the launch of a new co-branded line known as “Yohji JEANS.” Sourcing the history and expertise of EDWIN with the progressive approach to design of one of Japan’s longest standing designers, the collection’s starting point, “Naked,” will emphasis the purity and simplicity in a wardrobe. An initial launch begins June 2012.

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  14. surver

    surver Well-Known Member

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    not really sure what to think of it... sounds more like another Y3-esque commercial cop-out thing trying to rub off the yohji name... can't see any 'yohji-ness' at least through the pics at all...

    from the blurb, i guess EDWIN made/produced yohji's previous jeans all along? which, imo, weren't spectacular nor special in any way at all...
     
    Last edited: Aug 19, 2012
  15. PregnantBob

    PregnantBob Well-Known Member

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    But commercially it's needed. I'm fairly certain as an operation they're still far from clearing the debts occured in the aftermatin of the GFC and near collapse of the company.
     
    Last edited: Aug 20, 2012
  16. Ivwri

    Ivwri Well-Known Member

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    Yeah this was posted a while back actually. Never handled Edwin denim and in fact i only know about them because they did a collaboration for a videogame (El Shaddai: Ascension of the Metatron for anyone who's interested).

    I agree with Bob, I see nothing wrong with something like this especially since it seems Edwin as a denim brand has some traction in the market. The designs could always become a little closer to what one typically expects from Yohji later on, I guess time will tell. If it doesn't, at least mainline gets more of a financial cushion to give them more creative wiggle room in the future.

    Also surver, most (or all?) of Yohji's mainline denim from what I understand was handled by Spotted Horse not Edwin.
     
  17. surver

    surver Well-Known Member

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    thanks for the correction :)
     
  18. surver

    surver Well-Known Member

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  19. dantebykiko

    dantebykiko Well-Known Member

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    i just got my delivery from japan, which i expected to be the hakamas but it turned out to be long sleeve t-shirt from s/s02 and the knit skirt/scarf from a/w05. the t-shirt it's double layered 75 cotton / 25 laine wool. with asymetric frayed seams running across the body. the code of the fabric it's 088. it's so soft and nice, you don't want to put an other t-shirt ever. also it's been pre-washed.

    speaking of denim, the same collection contained some really nice denim pieces. i'm sure if yohji decide he can push and make an awesome denim collection.

    t-shirt.
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    Last edited: Aug 20, 2012
    1 person likes this.
  20. asobu

    asobu Well-Known Member

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    kiko, ss02 is indeed informally dubbed his "denim" collection both internationally and in Japan.

    I think we've brought up the Edwin denim collab before, I can kind of see the point in the domestic market as Edwin is quite a big low/mid-market brand in Japan and very popular from what I've seen. Also, like Ivrwi said, he's been doing collaborations with Spotted Horse forever and they've always been doing his mainline denim afaik. The denim and quality is very very high from what I've handled. in 2002 (both collections) there were numerous denim pieces with intricate constructions/dyes as well as handpainted pieces (sky high prices). In fact, he's always putting out denim in every collection as far as I know but it's very seldom on the runway (ss02, aw02, aw04, ss05 and aw07 are the only ones that come to mind). These are not always sold abroad though. For ss11 spotted horse made hickory striped denim in different washes with the polo embroidery. I'm sure there were denim pieces in ss12, and probably also the current collection, in Japan.

    SS02 and AW02 had some great denim pieces, for ss05 he did some interesting denim in linen fabrics (david posted a pair earlier), for aw04 he did the cropped double cuff with hidden wool inserts etc. Take a look at women's AW02, there are some spectacular denim pieces in that collection (the whole collection is brilliant).
     
    1 person likes this.

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