1. Welcome to the new Styleforum!

    We hope you’re as excited as we are to hang out in the new place. There are more new features that we’ll announce in the near future, but for now we hope you’ll enjoy the new site.

    We are currently fine-tuning the forum for your browsing pleasure, so bear with any lingering dust as we work to make Styleforum even more awesome than it was.

    Oh, and don’t forget to head over to the Styleforum Journal, because we’re giving away two pairs of Carmina shoes to celebrate our move!

    Please address any questions about using the new forum to support@styleforum.net

    Cheers,

    The Styleforum Team

    Dismiss Notice

www.ehaberdasher.com - affiliate page

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by LA Guy, Jun 24, 2008.

Tags:
  1. althanis

    althanis Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,820
    Joined:
    Sep 8, 2010
    Location:
    Toronto
    I would be interested in size 36 or 34 Blue Label sportcoats that are half-canvassed at $300. Currently I get my half-canvassed sportcoats from Epaulet; they're American-made and have interesting fabrics from time to time, but cost about $450-$500.

    The only concern I would have is how to size it, as I wear a 35 there, but I imagine with a tape measure and some precise measurements most of that risk would be mitigated.
     
  2. eHaberdasher

    eHaberdasher Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,191
    Joined:
    Mar 24, 2006
    

    I guess I have some explaining to do.

    The Bella Spalla line was because as many of you already know we have been having production issues for the past few years, so I sought out an alternative solution in Italy (vs. China where the Sartorial line is made). I met and sat with a few different factories in Napoli and decided to go with this one, and basically went with their house model but tweaked it slightly (gave more room in the back and made the lapel wider). This is the sample run. I chose this black because this was in the works back in January and I thought I was going to have this in March/April and the fabric is a really beautiful lightweight cashmere blend from Colombo and is pretty basic (I have had numerous requests for solid navy and solid black blazers). I made a solid navy one as well, but they messed up the model so I refused them. So, clearly production issues are not isolated to China - if anything the Italians are extremely difficult to work with as well - I have loads of stories and examples, but we'll leave that for another time.

    Anyway true this model is shorter and slimmer - I didn't want to mess with their model too much (as I did initially and it was just WAAAYYY OFF) so better a little at a time. Also the current trend is shorter and slimmer so I thought I'd give it a try. The model actually suits me personally quite well, but I realize probably not to everyone's tastes. They are sending me a more revised sample model in the next few weeks - we'll see how that goes!
     
  3. eHaberdasher

    eHaberdasher Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,191
    Joined:
    Mar 24, 2006
  4. eHaberdasher

    eHaberdasher Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,191
    Joined:
    Mar 24, 2006
    

    I had to get talked into trying out the contrast stitching - I'm personally not a huge fan but apparently I can't just go with what I like and need to go with what sells... we'll see!
     
  5. gimmeabreak

    gimmeabreak Active Member

    Messages:
    38
    Joined:
    Apr 1, 2013
    I like the look and will give it a try, not sure about the shorter length but will probably be fine. Anyhow, the overall concept is what i personally need
    Whoa, if you had to modify the model to have more room, I wonder how tight their house model is - based on the listed measurements, i'd still have to size up over my usual size for sure
     
  6. eHaberdasher

    eHaberdasher Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,191
    Joined:
    Mar 24, 2006
    
    Black blazer can be worn with grey jeans, grey wool trousers, or with cream or white trousers in wool, linen or silk. This is indeed a very lightweight wool/cashmere blend - hopefully you can see the weave and get a sense of the airiness of it. It's Colombo fabric and really great. I do love the shoulder. Lapels are pretty big at 9.5 cm - I'll probably dial it back to 8.5 or 9, but I personally like them.
     
  7. eHaberdasher

    eHaberdasher Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,191
    Joined:
    Mar 24, 2006
    

    Thanks for the review and for the kind comments!

    Above I explained why I decided to try production in Italy (production issues with factory in China), but it turns out it's tough wherever you go and you're small-time. Quality of Benjamin Blue and Sartorial are better than the Bella Spalla line, but honestly I like the overall fit (even if a little short) of the Bella Spalla jacket.

    Moving forward it's really a crapshoot - I have so many fabrics in the pipeline it's ridiculous, but it's just so tough to get a handle on production. Add to this I'm really trying to see if I can get a MTM or at least MTO program going - I have access to so many great fabrics. Actually soon I'll announce a totally separate product I (but really my wife) has been working on... stay tuned! Hint: it's not clothing!
     
    Last edited: Dec 22, 2014
  8. eHaberdasher

    eHaberdasher Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,191
    Joined:
    Mar 24, 2006
    

    It appears the demand is there, so yes. When? I'd like to say by April but again - tough to say for sure and certainly no guarantees.
     
    1 person likes this.
  9. eHaberdasher

    eHaberdasher Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,191
    Joined:
    Mar 24, 2006
    

    Thanks for the review and glad the suit worked out well for you. Yes definitely for the solids we can almost always accommodate a trouser switch to different size if needed.
     
  10. eHaberdasher

    eHaberdasher Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,191
    Joined:
    Mar 24, 2006
    

    If you're a 35 you probably want to go with a 36, although honestly I have no experience or knowledge of Epaulet. Perhaps others can chime in on fit and comparison to the Benjamin line?
     
  11. althanis

    althanis Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,820
    Joined:
    Sep 8, 2010
    Location:
    Toronto
    I saw there was only the POW in 36 (not interested in the black). I'll keep an eye out for the newsletter, and this thread, to see when other fabrics come in 36. The measurements look fine for what I normally wear, so I'm actually really looking forward to some other fabrics.
     
    1 person likes this.
  12. thisfits

    thisfits Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    247
    Joined:
    May 10, 2010
    

    That's too bad -- if the cashmere herringbone was available in 38S, I'd have picked it up in heartbeat.

    Now I'm variously talking myself in and out of the extra inch of length for the 38R, going for the grey plaid 38S, or just holding out for more jackets in a later run. Decisions ...
     
  13. hookem12387

    hookem12387 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,113
    Joined:
    Jan 17, 2010
    Location:
    Houston
    Bit on the basil green :slayer:. I've been interested in a jacket that color for awhile, and it's the big lapel patch pocket model, which I prefer. Had it been full canvassed at that $425 mark Ben mentioned, I'd want 3
     
    Last edited: Dec 22, 2014
  14. evoh1

    evoh1 New Member

    Messages:
    1
    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2014
    New sports coats look great, shame the blue line isn't in the UK though.

    Massively looking forward to when you have the China production issues resolved for the next run of suits as I'm planning to but up a full stock of 39/40L as with a small bit of tailoring this is by far the best suit I have and makes me hold out on getting any others that are RTW.

    Kudos on what you are doing as this is obviously as much of a passion and labour of love as it is a business.
     
  15. mxtwoforty

    mxtwoforty Active Member

    Messages:
    31
    Joined:
    Jun 16, 2012
    Ben, how pronounced is the blue in the slate blue sport coat? What colors would you recommend pairing it with?
     
  16. hookem12387

    hookem12387 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,113
    Joined:
    Jan 17, 2010
    Location:
    Houston
    There's no SF discount code is there? I haven't used ones on past ehaberdasher orders, but it's always possible I'm missing out. I didn't know that exquisite trimmings deducted VAT, for instance.
     
  17. thisfits

    thisfits Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    247
    Joined:
    May 10, 2010
    

    SFFRSHIP for free shipping on $150 minimum purchase.
     
  18. Riva

    Riva Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    389
    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2013
    Location:
    Everywhere
    I'm looking to get 2 more suits and 3 sportscoats. I've resigned myself to getting nothing else but Benjamins assuming the new cut fits me. Nothing comes close at the price and my tailor agrees. Actually he said if he were to make me a similar one it'll cost me double after friendly discount and all. Nothing in black though, already too many. Actually counting I think I already have 32 all season jackets in my wardrobe. There's not much difference in price for half vs full canvas. I prefer to get everything full.

    Ben, the Classico 2 36S fits me perfect. Is the Spala a better fit for me or the Blue Label?
     
  19. Spandexter

    Spandexter Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    747
    Joined:
    Apr 8, 2012
    Location:
    Melbourne, Australia
    Ben, these jackets look great.

    Need more patch pockets and size 36s!
     
  20. eHaberdasher

    eHaberdasher Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,191
    Joined:
    Mar 24, 2006
    

    Pray that production issues are resolved for 2015, then we'll really blow the Benjamin line out!!
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by