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World business section picture of today's nytimes

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Thracozaag, Jul 20, 2004.

  1. Thracozaag

    Thracozaag Well-Known Member

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    For those who have seen this elegantly attired man two questions:

    a: What is unusual?
    b: Is it deliberate (and why)?

    koji
     
  2. wicozani

    wicozani Active Member

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    Looks to me like an unbuttoned, button-down shirt. I would believe it to be deliberate. Didn't Gianni Agnelli also do this at times?

    Jeff
     
  3. faustian bargain

    faustian bargain Well-Known Member

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  4. wicozani

    wicozani Active Member

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    I do not get the paper version of the NY Times, and it may be that we are referring to different pictures. I can see the picture shown in the link you posted, Andrew. The bottom picture shows Mr. Agnelli wearing his large watch over his shirt cuff. He was quite well known for doing this. I was referring to this picture of Luca Cordero di Montezemolo, the new Chairman, found on the NY Times website here: http://www.nytimes.com/2004/07/20/bu...ss/20fiat.html Jeff
     
  5. Duveen

    Duveen Well-Known Member

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    To quote from the article: 'With his flowing hair, double-breasted suits and button-down shirts worn unbuttoned, he seems cast in the same stylish mold as Giovanni Agnelli. Like his mentor, he has combined business ascendancy with the reputation in his youth as something of a playboy. His marriage to Ludovica Andreoni is his third. And like all serious Italian tycoons, he has a close interest in a soccer club - he is vice chairman of the club in Bologna, his hometown - in addition to the Fiat-owned Juventus team.'
     
  6. Thracozaag

    Thracozaag Well-Known Member

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    Yes indeed it's unbuttoned, but there's more to it....

    koji
     
  7. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member

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    Are you referring to his very square, loose four in hand knot with several dimples? Very nice touch. To ponitficate: there are only 2 rules to looking cool (or stylish, or confident, or elegant, or whatever word your style tribe chooses.)

    1) Don't sweat the small stuff, don't care too much,
    2) If you can't do (1), at least strive towards it.

    A guy on which everything very obviously matches is not a very cool guy. Very put together, maybe. But anal retentive as all hell.
     
  8. STYLESTUDENT

    STYLESTUDENT Well-Known Member

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    Agnelli in his photos favored white Brooks shirts. His successor's shirt is not white and the collar appears too short and too spread to be Brooks. Is this what you mean?
     
  9. Duveen

    Duveen Well-Known Member

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    koji, STYLESTUDENT has hit on the nub of this - why on earth are you being so cryptic? Are you trying to drive hits to that article as the entire styleforum breathlessly ponders what immensely complex meaning you may have derived from the man's suit-shirt-tie combo? Just spit it out, man. [​IMG]
     
  10. STYLESTUDENT

    STYLESTUDENT Well-Known Member

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    Let's try this riddle again. Thracozaag likes Neopolitan. Marinella tie tied in a Windsor knot?
     
  11. Thracozaag

    Thracozaag Well-Known Member

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    Haha, no...actually I noticed on his working buttonholes on his suit sleeve (right) he left one undone...probably to match the unbuttoned collar on the shirt (I think Barbera does this too).

    koji
     
  12. imageWIS

    imageWIS Well-Known Member

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    In every picture I can remember of Agnelli, he always wore his watch on the outside of his sleeve. If I recall correctly, the reason for this is so that he could easily read the time without the hassle of moving the sleeve. Personally, I rather like my watch on the inside of my sleeve; it is a welcome surprise every time it pops out [​IMG]. Luckily, Agnelli never wore a F. P. Journe, because they would have been wasted on him. Jon.
     
  13. Duveen

    Duveen Well-Known Member

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    The perils of the internet...

    Not that I'd have caught it anyhow, but in the online phot you can't see the suit sleeve. Sigh...
     
  14. faustian bargain

    faustian bargain Well-Known Member

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    i've known about leaving the last jacket-sleeve button undone for a while now - i do it myself on a really casual khaki sportsjacket from eddie bauer. i think i actually read about it first in the roetzel book. (he's also got a good picture of agnelli in there; but i don't think there's any mention of the unbuttoned buttondown - i could be wrong.)

    some may say it's an affectation. i like to think it's just another detail expressive of nonchalant elegance.

    /andrew
     
  15. armscye

    armscye Well-Known Member

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    I deal with Italian companies, and among younger execs who favor the typical tight shirt cuffs, it's common to see either the watch worn over the cuff, or (with metal bracelet watches) the bracelet adjusted very loose and hanging like a woman's bracelet. BTW, these same guys wear lots of olive suits, lotsa tan dress shoes, and pants about an inch shorter than any American would

    So was not just Agnellii. It's an Italian thing.
     
  16. hermes

    hermes Well-Known Member

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    i thought the roman company "interno 8" (i believe angelo galasso is the designer) invented a dress shirt called the "polso orological" for agnelli that is specifically designed with a special cuff for wearing the watch on top of the cuff

    the cuff of the shirt is designed in a such a fashion that it allows the watch to be worn over the cuff without the cuff puckering or creasing underneath ..... it's a really odd but oddly interesting cuff design
     
  17. kidkim2

    kidkim2 Well-Known Member

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    The mind plays tricks.  But I seem to recall, many years ago, the unbuttoned button-down collar becoming so trendy that Brooks themselves mimicked the look, putting out a dress shirt with an identically-shaped tab collar.  Can anyone confirm this?

    Re Agnelli's watch.  When I was growing up in the '50's--that is, in my much, much more flamboyant youth--I inherited from my step-grandfather a gaudy wristwatch   It was my first, a gold-plated Bulova with a matching expansion band.  I soon found that gobs of gold look lousy against a pale, skinny teenage wrist.  So what did I do?  I strapped it on outside the sleeve of my sweater.  

    The outcome?  In the end I had to choose.  Carry a baseball bat to deter the unwanted advances of inflamed males or knuckle under and dress like everybody else.  (I'm afraid I took the easy way out, more's the pity.)  

    If I'd only known about Agnelli, possibly the most relentlessly heterosexual rake in recent history, maybe I could have stuck it out. . . .  (At least until my taste in timepieces improved.)

    Am I the only fellow who ever found his sartorial preferences misinterpreted?  "Anybody who dresses as well as you (or likes Eric Satie, or Philip Guston, or Cafe des Artistes, or. . .) must be gay."  

    Does my experience ring a bell?

    Mike
     
  18. kidkim2

    kidkim2 Well-Known Member

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    I guess not?

    Mike
     
  19. dorian

    dorian Well-Known Member

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    Agnelli had a rare skin reaction to metals - especially those in prolonged contact - such that he had to wear his watch over his sleeve. Many have thought it was a fashion statement of sorts, but it was quite certainly a result of a rare skin disease.
     
  20. faustian bargain

    faustian bargain Well-Known Member

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    there probably aren't that many forumers who grew up in the '50's...for example i grew up in the '80's, when new wave, preppy, punk, and proto-hiphop styles coexisted in a cacophanous melange. also i remember lots of acid-wash jeans. *shudder*

    that said, i lived in the south, where if you dressed 'gay' you were more likely to get sneered at than propositioned. i remember visiting my old middle school right after i had moved away, and i was wearing a pink buttondown under a navy sweater...some redneck passed me in the hall and audibly snorted.

    /andrew
     

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