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Wingtips help.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by epc2, May 5, 2013.

  1. epc2

    epc2 Well-Known Member

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    Hi guys,

    I'm in the market for a nice pair of wingtips , almost all of my shoes are loafers(ferragamo,gucci etc), I don't mind paying a bit more upfront if they'll last a long time.

    I don't to start a vs. thread , but do you guys think that a RL/ Crockett & J or Churchs is worht the price difference over an Alden or AE.

    I personally like the color and look of the RL Marlow and Alden LWB in cigar, but not sure if spending All that money I should go all the way to UK mfr., also if buying an american the AE looks like the better buy considering the price difference .

    Your help is apprecciated.

    Epc2.
     
  2. ExhibitA

    ExhibitA Well-Known Member

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    I purchased a black pair of Alden longwings and couldn't have been happier with the purchase. The price around $675 at the Alden shop in D.C. and well worth it. After six months of regular wear there's only a slight crease in the toe box.
     
  3. Gauss17

    Gauss17 Well-Known Member

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    I really love Allen Edmonds and do not hesitate to recommend them. However, if you can get a good fit, the RL Marlow on sale really cannot be beat.
     
  4. f800gs

    f800gs Well-Known Member

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    I would try them on on and pick the one with the best fit.
     
  5. epc2

    epc2 Well-Known Member

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    What about the Church's Grafton ? Which one will you choose between the Churchs and Marlow?

    Thanks.
     
  6. Subutai

    Subutai Well-Known Member

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    How much of a factor is price?
    McAllisters are nice and you know they'll last but if you can drop the extra $$ on RL, C&J, etc . . .
     
  7. epc2

    epc2 Well-Known Member

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    Don't like the look of the McAllisters ,of the AE line the ones I like are the McNeils, I'd consider quality and durability over price but the Marlows are at the top of the range I'd like to spend but if the quality is really better I'll consider them since I really like the color and look of them.
     
  8. jaywhyy

    jaywhyy Well-Known Member

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    Well, McAllisters are calfskin and the marlow line is cordovan, so you're comparing apples and oranges there. In addition McAllisters are balmorals while the marlow wingtip is a blucher. If you like the blucher, you may want to look at the AE players shoe. It's been discontinued, but you may find it somewhere.

    In my opinion, there is a discernable difference in quality between C&JxRL and AE or Alden. The difference in quality is definitely not worth the extra $500 ($600 if you buy AE seconds). The marlow line is ridiculously overpriced for what you get at full retail (considering you can get some exotic carmina shell for the same price), and if you're set on those I'd wait till around fall when the cordovan is expected to be included in the private sale.

    My suggestion is, if you don't like the look of AE and want wingtips now, look into Meermin, C&J benchgrade (handgrade if you can afford it), and possibly Carmina.
     
  9. VinnyMac

    VinnyMac Well-Known Member

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    That's a popular claim here, but it's mainly just talk. For the OVERWHELMING majority of things, price is always one of the (if not THE) primary factors. You may think that the quality justifies the price, but in the end, it comes back to price.

    OP, I have shoes from AE, C&J and Church's. They're all nice, but IMO, the AE's are the best value. They can be bought for significantly less money than the other two, but the quality doesn't decrease proportionately with the price; it's more for my money.
     
    Last edited: May 6, 2013
    1 person likes this.
  10. Cold Iron

    Cold Iron Well-Known Member

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    I agree with this. I am wearing the Marlow today.

    It is the only C&J I own, likely will not get another. Have a couple pairs of Alden shell also. But have XX pairs of AE and feel they are as good as any of the others in the price range you are looking at.
     
  11. epc2

    epc2 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the help guys ,maybe I didn't make myself clear yes of course money is an important factor , what I mean is that if it will last a lot more I rather paying a bit more upfront but don't really want to pay retail at all, now the RL are priced at $765 with a 10% coupon , but if I can get them later at a sale I'll just buy something cheaper like an Alden or AE.

    Any comments about the Church's?

    Thanks.
     
  12. bellyhungry

    bellyhungry Well-Known Member

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    Seems like the OP is looking for a pair of long wing blucher or short wing blucher.

    I'd say the $500 calf LWB offering by Alden and Alden for J Crew are worth looking into.
     
  13. SuitedDx

    SuitedDx Well-Known Member

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    For the LWB double-sole, I would have to say Alden (shell cordovan). AE's longwings are great but I find Alden's look more balanced (Alden's vamp is slightly longer vs. the MacNeil's longer eye stays). Church's are fine shoes although they will get a lot of bad press here on SF and I'd say between AE & C&J BG.

    If I had to choose a LWB, it would be Alden. A sleeker balmoral wingtip? I would choose C&J. For me, these two brands have lasts that fit me well (EGs fit me better than C&J but it has not been mentioned) and ultimately that should be the deciding factor when it comes to the brands you have mentioned. I would caution there is a big difference from soft & flexible loafers to thick & heavy gunboats though.
     
  14. MyOtherLife

    MyOtherLife Well-Known Member

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    A good answer with useful information. Keep up the good work Vinny.

    I would add that the intended use of the shoes may play a role in determining what to buy.
    For example, would the need be for commuting by car and walking primarily in the ofice building environment (polished floors and carpet) or are they for commuting by public transit and pounding pavement. Welcome to Styleforum epc2.
     
    Last edited: May 7, 2013
  15. epc2

    epc2 Well-Known Member

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    Not for a lot of walking in pavement etc. , polished and wood floor most of the time.

    Thanks.
     
  16. MyOtherLife

    MyOtherLife Well-Known Member

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    Thank you for clarifying. With that in mind, I will try to address your original question. Much of this you may already know, but I will consider newcomers reading along.
    You will find some unification with shoe manufacturer preferences on Styleforum.

    Allen Edmonds is (arguably) entry level to high end shoes in North America. They do offer a Custom Order service allowing the customer to personalize features on most models to their liking. This comes ofcourse at a premium. In the past, AE was guilty of producing many 'blobby' models. This was primarily due to the use of the 360° Goodyear welting (which I personally have no problem with). Under the recent leadership of their new CEO Paul Grangaard, things have noteably improved. The re-introduction of the 270° welting and revival of several of their Legacy models, has contributed to more sleeker offerings and are deservedly receiving very strong support by consumers. Allen Edmonds shoes are also 'airport scanner friendly' using no steel or metal shank in their construction, should that be a concern.

    Alden is a consistent step up from AE for American made shoes using slightly better leathers for both outer and linings. They also have their share of blobby shoes (example- the beloved Barrie last) but also sleeker models (example- Aberdeen last) . Alden does use metal shanks and have to be removed at airport scanners.

    Both Allen Edmonds and Alden offer models in Shell Cordovan if that be the preference.
    Both brands offer models with cushioned leather insoles either as stock, or as a customisizing option.

    Crockett and Jones receives consistently solid reviews on this forum and for a British made shoe, may fill a sweet spot for higher end in quality, comfort and price.
    Churchs' are solid, though in recent years there have been concerns since their takeover by Prada. The concern came with some of the more 'modern spins' on older styles, more agressively or trendy stylings, and also possible comprimise to quality. Church's do however offer a solid range of mainstay models that will satisfy any conservative need

    Gaziano Girling, Campanile, Canali (made by Campanile), Edward Green, Barker Black, John Lobb, Saint Crispins, Vass, Berluti, Aubercy, Corthay, Alfred Sargent, Trickers, Ferragamo, Grenson Rose, Cheaney, Camina, Meermin, Peal & Co., etc. just to name a few, all receive strong support on this forum. There are many more I fail to mention here.

    Many higher end shoe manufacturers also offer lasted shoe trees and for the manufacturers that do, it would be an indicator that the their shoes are worthy of the additional investment. Shoe trees (lasted or not) are an important part of long term care.

    To specifically answer your question...

    My answer, in a word, would be, yes.
    Once in the Alden price range (and up), you will find (and enjoy) finer quality shoes that are worthy of the investment.
    It is equally possible for a $400 pair of shoes to last just as long as a $1,000 pair, provided they are of good quality, not abused and are properly cared for.
    Occasional recrafting of the entire soles (when the time comes) is also offered, but not by all manufacturers.
    Beyond comfort and pride of ownership in the higher end range will lay exclusiveness. One's options are limited only by one's funds.

    I highly recommend this thread for further reading:
    http://www.styleforum.net/t/12201/comprehensive-list-of-links-to-high-end-shoes
     
    1 person likes this.
  17. pdxmatt

    pdxmatt Member

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    Great post. So much good info for us newcomers.
     

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