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Whoopee hacking jackets!

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Toiletduck, Sep 7, 2006.

  1. Charley

    Charley Well-Known Member

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    I can't believe I am saying this but the first jacket has too much waist suppression. The pocket flaps are great, though I'm not sure about having the button on the breast pocket. Would you still be able to wear a square with that exposed button?

    The waist is a bit tight. However, it is made to appear more suppressed because of the shoulder build up. The suit waist is great. But I would prefer, for myself, not so much padding in the shoulder. Let it "fall" over the shoulder head a bit.
     
  2. whoopee

    whoopee Well-Known Member

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    There is one thin layer of wadding. The rest are my shoulders and the thick cloth.

    The jacket is not really meant to be buttoned. It obviously can be, but I never nor ever intended to wear it that way. How it looks in the first picture is how I like it - the suppression makes it appear not sloppy, as can sometimes be the case with a loose unbuttoned coat. The buttoned pic was meant to provide a clear picture of the design for a tailor to construct a similar coat.

    I do appreciate the comments.
     
  3. acidboy

    acidboy Well-Known Member

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    chan gets a visit from me next time i step in hongkong.
     
  4. kolecho

    kolecho Well-Known Member

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    Nov 15, 2004
    I like the texture and colour of the hacking jacket (I never thought I would like a green cloth [​IMG] ). I do think the waist suppression is a little exaggerated, even though you obviously have the figure for it [​IMG]
     
  5. thinman

    thinman Well-Known Member

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    I'm going to disagree with the comments about the waist suppression. I say, if you've got it, flaunt it! whoopee has the physique to look good with that much waist suppression and it gives what would otherwise be a very staid (old-fashioned?) jacket some real flair. Likewise, the peak lapels and high gorge on the 3-piece suit give it character, whereas comparable waist suppression as on the jacket would put it over the top, IMO. I think both the jacket and the suit are great (the DB is still my favorite, though). whoopee, I admire your taste!
     
  6. SGladwell

    SGladwell Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Mar 11, 2006
    The following is a three piece suit I received recently. I'm really pleased with it even though I've yet to break it in.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    The camera clicked when I was preparing a pose to show the armholes; this turned out better than the staged shot.

    [​IMG]
    Here with the vest.

    I think I'm going to wear this when I meet Tony Gaziano this Friday in NYC, so if any of you happen to spot a flannel B&W glen check, 1 button peak lapel being worn around the Waldorf (or really all of NYC), take a risk and say hi. He probably will be me.


    Wow. Not much else to say but, wow. I'm going to have to try your tailor!
     
  7. montmorency

    montmorency Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Whoopee, you have gotten Chan to do extraordinary things and very unique. I had read before about how it was not advisable to ask Chan to do something very different because it was likely not to turn out as requested. How did you get Chan to turn out such incredible garments? How many suits or jackets have you ordered from Chan before they got to this point? I have read that a suit from Chan using one of the specially priced fabrics costs about $900 and a suit using a fabric ordered from one of their books costs about $1,100; is that right for what you ordered?
     
  8. whoopee

    whoopee Well-Known Member

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    Whoopee, you have gotten Chan to do extraordinary things and very unique. I had read before about how it was not advisable to ask Chan to do something very different because it was likely not to turn out as requested. How did you get Chan to turn out such incredible garments? How many suits or jackets have you ordered from Chan before they got to this point? I have read that a suit from Chan using one of the specially priced fabrics costs about $900 and a suit using a fabric ordered from one of their books costs about $1,100; is that right for what you ordered?
    I've ordered ten or so suits and jackets from Chan. It's taken a while for me to get these results. The trick is in being very specific with what you want, and this is more than just "slim" or "British cut" or "small armholes". The first couple suits I got were okay, nothing brilliant IMO, but some people here thought they were nice. It's easier to push them when you have something of theirs in hand to base off of and when you can do fittings. I ordered them all direct, usually with a couple fittings each, until recently, when they've gone straight to finish, with almost perfect results. Some members have had good results from the tour. I have no experience. The good thing about Chan is that they are reputable and the service is stellar. That gave me confidence, despite my first couple garments being less than perfect, in retrospect. They fixed what they could (and they can do quite a bit), free of charge (though they might charge shipping fees if you can't pick them up in HK - I honestly don't know). I usually buy my own cloth and have it brought to them, because their cloth choices fail to excite me (and my least fav suits but those that I did not source myself). I've posted HK prices before - HKD6000 for 2 piece, 7600 for 3 - recently raised. As I said, I ordered them all through the store, and usually that incurs shipping/duty fees if they must be shipped. I don't know what they charge on the tours. Prices for cloths ordered from the quality books - IMO, H&S is far and away the best they have, disregarding LP cashmere - will be more like $1200-1300 for a two-piece these days, for the more basic cloths. Patrick, the cutter, has pretty good taste as to a more youthful, aggresively stylish look within the confines of reason. I gather not many people ask for it, because their client base isn't the type, and those that do try to be fashionable (I've seen some fairly shocking things being made by request of the client). Pictures will be extremely helpful if you have something specific in mind. If you want to use one of mine, mention my name to him. It should help a lot.
     
  9. whoopee

    whoopee Well-Known Member

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    I wore this jacket today and snapped a pic before I went out. As is probably obvious, my webcam isn't of high quality. I would've loved to take a pic of my whole outfit (this jacket, the cream shawl collar sweater, deep olive moleskins, , green/orange/lime argyles, mid-brown chelseas), especially in retrospect, since it has my gratitude for keeping me toasty today. And a closeup of the cloth would've been appreciated, too, as it always delights me to look at how what from a distance appears a mid-dark brown is actually a melange twill of orange/light muddy green and olive. [​IMG] Edit: + [​IMG]
     
  10. Edward Appleby

    Edward Appleby Well-Known Member

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    Whopee, that three piece is one of the best things I've seen on this forum, and I don't even like one-buttons.
     
  11. zjpj83

    zjpj83 Well-Known Member

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    whoopee, I wish I had your figure. But then there wouldn't be any Taco Bell in my life, and that would be a shame.
     
  12. Patrick Bateman

    Patrick Bateman Well-Known Member

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    Manhattan
    whoopee, I wish I had your figure. But then there wouldn't be any Taco Bell in my life, and that would be a shame.

    Lol, zach. whoopee, you've definitely got some amazing incentives to stay fit!!
     
  13. acidboy

    acidboy Well-Known Member

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    Pictures will be extremely helpful if you have something specific in mind. If you want to use one of mine, mention my name to him. It should help a lot.
    whoopee? [​IMG]
     
  14. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Well-Known Member

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    London
    Whoopee, those are easily some of the best jackets / suits I've seen - period.

    You have a really great sense of style.
     

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