1. Welcome to the new Styleforum!

    We hope you’re as excited as we are to hang out in the new place. There are more new features that we’ll announce in the near future, but for now we hope you’ll enjoy the new site.

    We are currently fine-tuning the forum for your browsing pleasure, so bear with any lingering dust as we work to make Styleforum even more awesome than it was.

    Oh, and don’t forget to head over to the Styleforum Journal, because we’re giving away two pairs of Carmina shoes to celebrate our move!

    Please address any questions about using the new forum to support@styleforum.net

    Cheers,

    The Styleforum Team

    Dismiss Notice

Who Says Drape Can't Equal Shape?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by The Doctor, Jun 30, 2010.

  1. The Doctor

    The Doctor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    153
    Joined:
    Oct 19, 2006
    I feel that there seems to be a misconception amongst a lot of people that the soft shouldered draped style of tailoring often produces a sloppy, baggy jacket with very little shape but as you can see of the two examples of the Steed silhouette, we are able to provide as much shape and "snap" as required.

    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    A key feature of our cut is the high, smaller armhole which provides us with a longer line, with the added benefit of freedom of movement and comfort whilst not compromising the overall fit of the jacket.

    This is illustrated in the picture below of one of our customers David Nossiter, whilst he is leaning from the Bus on his wedding day. (Notice how the jacket stays gripped to his neck)

    [​IMG]

    Although our house style is of a softer shoulder, we do have some clients that prefer somewhere in between the more structured style of houses such as Kilgour and Huntsmans and the softer style of ours. An example of this would be Voxsartoria (Vox) who some of you know and posts on here regularly.

    Edwin DeBoise

    Steed Bespoke Tailors

    www.steeds-view.blogspot.com

    www.steed.co.uk
     
  2. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    25,756
    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2007
    Although our house style is of a softer shoulder, we do have some clients that prefer somewhere in between the more structured style of houses such as Kilgour and Huntsmans and the softer style of ours. An example of this would be Voxsartoria (Vox) who some of you know and posts on here regularly.

    [​IMG]


    - B
     
  3. Usul

    Usul Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    236
    Joined:
    Jun 3, 2010
    The man is a Drape Ape, no doubt about it.
     
  4. mafoofan

    mafoofan Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    20,793
    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2007
    We Drapists are persistent and resolute creatures.
     
  5. Manton

    Manton Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    41,568
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2002
    Location:
    In Hiding
    Drape with padding makes baby Jesus cry.
     
  6. mafoofan

    mafoofan Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    20,793
    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2007
    Drape with padding makes baby Jesus cry.
    Jesus was a Drapist. [​IMG] So was Buddha. [​IMG] And Vishnu. [​IMG]
     
  7. gdl203

    gdl203 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    36,642
    Joined:
    Jun 9, 2005
    Location:
    New York
    mafoo, I always knew you were an antisemite! (despite marrying a jewess)

    Where's Moses in all this? Moses was one hell of a drapist, alright
     
  8. ohm

    ohm Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,413
    Joined:
    May 19, 2008
    Jesus was a Drapist.

    [​IMG]

    So was Buddha.

    [​IMG]

    And Vishnu.

    [​IMG]


    This is all well and good but tell us who their tailors were!
     
  9. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,452
    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2007
    Location:
    New York
    This is all well and good but tell us who their tailors were!

    Duh. Rubinacci.
     
  10. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    25,756
    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2007
    I can tell you who wasn't a drapist...the great bespoke tailor Recep Cesur.

    As for the early 1960s Florentine tailor, Mario Zuccala, well...see for yourself.

    A good source, BTW, of undraped, structured tailoring these days is Mens Wearhouse. I guarantee it.


    - B
     
  11. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    25,756
    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2007
    Duh. Rubinacci.

    Actually, I believe that is their slogan.

    Also: nice job summoning tepdoc.


    - B
     
  12. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,452
    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2007
    Location:
    New York
    Actually, I believe that is their slogan.

    Also: nice job summoning tepdoc.


    - B


    Can someone pls summarize / or provide a link to tepdoc's tirade against LH. People always refer to this, and I feel lost as I haven't read the post. I wanna hang with the cool kids too!
     
  13. Infrasonic

    Infrasonic Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,900
    Joined:
    May 27, 2007
    Location:
    Manchester, UK.
    As for the early 1960s Florentine tailor, Mario Zuccala, well...see for yourself.




    - B


    I believe a similar fate happened to Darren Beammeupman...
     
  14. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    25,756
    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2007
    Can someone pls summarize / or provide a link to tepdoc's tirade against LH. People always refer to this, and I feel lost as I haven't read the post. I wanna hang with the cool kids too!

    They weren't posted here, but off on the Island of the Banned.


    - B
     
  15. mafoofan

    mafoofan Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    20,793
    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2007
    mafoo, I always knew you were an antisemite! (despite marrying a jewess) Where's Moses in all this? Moses was one hell of a drapist, alright
    Moses is not of an equivalent status within Judaism, as compared to Jesus, Buddha, or Vishnu within their respective religions. The Jewish god would be much closer, but he doesn't have a physical form or manifestation. However, you are right: Yahweh (is that the proper term?) is nonetheless also a Drapist.
    Can someone pls summarize / or provide a link to tepdoc's tirade against LH. People always refer to this, and I feel lost as I haven't read the post. I wanna hang with the cool kids too!
    I'm not sure anyone really knows why he is so negative on Rubinacci, but the negativity appears to have developed shortly after Rubinacci spread beyond Iammatt on the forums and Tep visited Rubinacci (in London, I believe). He has never explicitly revealed why his experience was so disillusioning, but he has frequently alluded to Mariano's smile, the fanciness of the Rubinacci shops, the presence at the Carlyle, Arab oil money, and Persian carpet dealers. I'm not sure what the connection is between those things, but I think the point is that he believes it's self-explanatory.
    They weren't posted here, but off on the Island of the Banned.
    And London Lounge.
     
  16. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    25,756
    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2007
    He has never explicitly revealed why his experience was so disillusioning, but he has frequently alluded to Mariano's smile, the fanciness of the Rubinacci shops, the presence at the Carlyle, Arab oil money, and Persian carpet dealers.

    You forgot machine-rolled edges on their silk squares in that list.


    - B
     
  17. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,452
    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2007
    Location:
    New York
    he has frequently alluded to Mariano's smile, the fanciness of the Rubinacci shops, the presence at the Carlyle, Arab oil money, and Persian carpet dealers. I'm not sure what the connection is between those things, but I think the point is that he believes it's self-explanatory.

    Interesting - thank you. On the +ve side, this must mean that his anger has deflected away from Edward Green (his old enemy).
     
  18. mafoofan

    mafoofan Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    20,793
    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2007
    You forgot machine-rolled edges on their silk squares in that list.

    How can you tell? Perhaps I'm too low class to know the difference [​IMG].

    Interesting - thank you. On the +ve side, this must mean that his anger has deflected away from Edward Green (his old enemy).

    I didn't know he had an issue with EG before.
     
  19. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    25,756
    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2007
    Interesting - thank you. On the +ve side, this must mean that his anger has deflected away from Edward Green (his old enemy).

    Do you have any thoughts on how we might harness the powerful force of anger to protect the West or maybe clean up the Gulf?

    Would an actual harness be involved, perhaps?

    You are a smart guy. How do we do it?


    - B
     
  20. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,452
    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2007
    Location:
    New York

    I didn't know he had an issue with EG before.


    Hated EG if I recall correctly - for some inane reason too (their shoes didn't fit his feet well, so they were shoddy and Hillary was a crook).
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by