whnay.'s good taste thread

[unbelragazzo]

I have a silk/linen/cashmere mix - it's quite nice. Dormeuil has some silk/mohair mixes too. But I've heard bad things about cloth with too high a mohair percentage.

 

[Lovelace]



I have a silk/linen/cashmere mix - it's quite nice. Dormeuil has some silk/mohair mixes too. But I've heard bad things about cloth with too high a mohair percentage.

I think it had a reputation for 'cracking'.

I've nether had a cloth with more than 40% mohair content. 30% seems typical these days.

Bear in mind weaving and finishing technology has improved over the years.

My current tailor marvels at the performance of some modern cloths.

 

[CaymanS]

I love Taka's style.

 

[Victor Elfo]

The only turn off for me is the impression of loose collar on Liverano jackets. Am I the only one?
We're talking about gray odd jackets and their lack of versatility, how do you feel about the outfit below (the colors and patterns are more accurate and visible in the close-up)?

 

[sprout2]

i wonder how a Liverano sport coat really looks and feels. I find the cut to be slightly antique and produce a dressy effect better for a suit, with its cutaway skirt and elongated curves. It seems like something that would be decidedly uncasual no matter the material. Also, how do they look with patch pockets? Having trouble imagining that.

 

[Victor Elfo]

Interesting, I get the exact opposite feel from their coats (the general stuff shown on the blogs of the armourers).
The soft construction, the convex shoulders, the cutaway quarters, the lack of front darts combined with the iron work to create a gentle three dimensionality. In my opinion, those factors contributes to a casual demeanor, however, I've never seen the stuff IRL. Here is an evaluation wrote by Ethan, someone who own the stuff, you'll, also, see the Liverano patches.
Another Liverano costumer:

 

[sprout2]

Search for gazman's fit pictures and you'll see what I mean. Of course the effect may differ from person to person. All the same, Liverano's is the most exaggerated of the Florentine tailors and to my eye looks antique, but in a good way, as I said. As for the Armoury, some of Alan's recent suits by L&L have come out looking decidedly soft and unfussy, but this to me is owing more to the lightness of the cloth used for those numbers, and the wearer's overall lanky and wiggly noodle-like presence (again meant in a good way).

As to the picture above, I was given to understand that he uses Rubinacci among others. Wasn't his trial at L&L a one-off during a trip? That episode was described in another thread.

Edit: I opened the link; again, the extreme curving skirt looks very antique and at odds with the sport coat concept. As I predicted, the patch pockets emphasize that cutaway even more, making it seem more cartoonish than it otherwise would on a full suit. IMO besom pockets on a suit would work best with this kind of styling. The other thing that throws it off for me is the L&L preference for very close, cropped pants, which makes the whole thing look uneasily top heavy. The sarto of that house usually dresses that way and has drawn some confused commentary in that regard -- the potential grace of those curves up above is severely undermined by narrow trousers, which make one look stumpy. I just remembered that I have seen these in the flesh -- I will say that Mark's (Armourer) suits look obviously expensive but a bit unusual in person.

 

[Victor Elfo]

No, he stayed with L&L, many pictures of him can be seem in the armourers blogs on Liverano trunk shows and he has many other Liverano garments. No clue about the Rubinacci thing, never heard of him using Rubinacci services.
I've never seen any other Florentine tailors work, so I can not comment on your affirmation about Liverano being the "most exaggerated" of them. I'll stick to my opinion about the "feel" of the garments, they look casual to me, but you disagree, no problem.

It would be good to have a L&L topic, but, unfortunately, maomao does not post here anymore.

 

[sprout2]

No problem at all; thank you for helping me think about the subject more deeply.
I stand corrected about the other thing. This is what happens when you try to comment from memory about someone else's tailor...
I'd imagine the forthcoming Liverano interview will serve as an aggregate discussion thread.

 

[p.henrik]



I love Taka's style.

This could be a great color for the BlazerSuit, I think. Anyone knows a fresco or hopsack in this color? Thanks

 

[CaymanS]

Maomao is the best dressed dude round these parts, imo. He consistently kills and his style is truly effortless (not 'contrived' effortless.)

Great blog: http://beijing1980.tumblr.com/

 

[p.henrik]



True, but the 0520 is not really grey/blue (at least not compared to say the fresco mohair 0577 that I'm considering having a suit made up in).

 

I need to get hold of the book to see for myself. Would be interested to hear why Manton and Foo were against it as a SC though.

That's a really nice cloth you've picked there. I like it a lot. I suspect it has a certain iridescence, depending on how the light catches it.

I presume that's you being fitted. The cut reminds me of that Florentine tailor who's name I can't remember. :

I bought this and find it will wear cool in the Summer. It's a darker navy (more conservative) indoors because of the black yarns, but in the natural light (like in picture below), is vibrant.

I like the visual interest.

Should look good with your tan/white/grey/cream trousers.

With grey trousers indoors (however, still with some natural light).

Very nice, but not feeling it as a SC. Not enough surface interest/texture. And too dark for what I'm after.

 

[Victor Elfo]

Maomao is the best dressed dude round these parts, imo. He consistently kills and his style is truly effortless (not 'contrived' effortless).

Agreed!
I'm pretty strict when it comes to "the rules", but he is the only one that breaks them without driving me crazy. I'm trying to understand what he does different, but so far (a few months) I've not come to a conclusion.
Look at the Maomao's outfit below. It breaks many rules that we could relate to "good taste", but I'm fond of it.

 

[Sander]



Agreed!
I'm pretty strict when it comes to "the rules", but he is the only one that breaks them without driving me crazy. I'm trying to understand what he does different, but so far (a few months) I've not come to a conclusion.
Look at the Maomao's outfit below. It breaks many rules that we could relate to "good taste", but I'm fond of it.

Okay, I think we can agree that if people can dress as well as mao, they can start breaking rules. I'd love to see that waywrn .

 

[black_umbrella]

grade-able?