whnay.'s good taste thread

[Lovelace]



That's not me! It's one of The Armoury folks and I'm using him as a benchmark so people can see how the cloth looks when made up.

You're right on the other count.

Did you not get this as a suit?

 

[bboysdontcryy]

I'm getting a matching pair of trousers too, but IMHO, it's not a strictly suit-y fabric. Can be a casual suit (with the right detailing), or used as an odd jacket, and yet not look like it's an orphan.

Would you have done it differently -- that is, not having trousers made up?

 

[unbelragazzo]

My plan is to have a suit of it, but the jacket with peak lapels and a single button, and wear often as an odd jacket at night.

 

[unbelragazzo]

How did you source the fabric? Through your tailor?

 

[Lovelace]



I'm getting a matching pair of trousers too, but IMHO, it's not a strictly suit-y fabric. Can be a casual suit (with the right detailing), or used as an odd jacket, and yet not look like it's an orphan.

Would you have done it differently -- that is, not having trousers made up?

My own preference for Mohair is a suit only. I don't see it a as a casual fabric. Too dressy IMO.

You of course may disagree with this.

How are you detailing it?

 

[Lovelace]



My plan is to have a suit of it, but the jacket with peak lapels and a single button, and wear often as an odd jacket at night.

The idea of pairing Mohair and an SBPL cut is a great one. I've several myself

But you will have a very dressy garment there, I'm not sure about wearing the jacket on its own.

What would you pair the jacket with out of interest?

 

[unbelragazzo]

I need to see the fabric in person to know. But if it's vibrant and blue enough, then black trousers. Or cream ones too. Check out the "black tie casual" thread in my sig for more of an idea of what I'm going for.

 

[bboysdontcryy]



My own preference for Mohair is a suit only. I don't see it a as a casual fabric. Too dressy IMO.

You of course may disagree with this.

How are you detailing it?

You're right that a suit made in mohair, is usually, dressy. But I think that because the warp/weft are in different colours, and the blue isn't quite as dark/conservative under natural light, it's quite unlike the dressy mohair fabrics I've seen. I feel that it can be worn as an odd jacket. The texture is a little like Fresco too.

Details for this are subject to amendments, so any feedback would be helpful.

Thinking of having this made up as a DB.
With four buttons like in picture below -- any opinions?
EITHER black smoked MOP or dark brown horn buttons -- I'm very undecided on this.
Patched or besom pockets -- also undecided, but leaning towards besom.

Navy odd DB jacket with smoked MOP (ignore the white shirt) --

How did you source the fabric? Through your tailor?

Yes. I got it from my tailor for 81 GBP (VAT inclusive). If I can help, let me know.

 

[unbelragazzo]

Detracting from the casualness is that a lot of mohair is a bit shiny. Personally my whole conception of it is as evening wear, so I'd avoid the brown horn and patches. Although seemingly people put patches on everything now. The patch pocket tux can't be far away.

 

[Lovelace]



I need to see the fabric in person to know. But if it's vibrant and blue enough, then black trousers. Or cream ones too. Check out the "black tie casual" thread in my sig for more of an idea of what I'm going for.

The one underneath the shot mohair will be very vibrant.

It would be beneficial if you could get your paws on a suit length, or a larger piece than a swatch and take it outside and preferably it being sunny before you make your choice.

I'll take a look at your black tie casual thread.

 

[unbelragazzo]

At least in the pic, the one underneath looks too "blogger" blue. Not great for evening. I'm looking for something dark but with some vibrant sheen, like a velvet.

 

[Lovelace]



Detracting from the casualness is that a lot of mohair is a bit shiny. Personally my whole conception of it is as evening wear, so I'd avoid the brown horn and patches. Although seemingly people put patches on everything now. The patch pocket tux can't be far away.

Its not just the sheen. Multi-ply mohairs are stiff, they lend themselves to very crisp, sharp tailoring.

If I wanted a casual solid blue jacket for the colder months I'd pick flannel, one with a nice bloom to the fabric, for summer linen or a linen mix.

 

[Lovelace]



At least in the pic, the one underneath looks too "blogger" blue. Not great for evening. I'm looking for something dark but with some vibrant sheen, like a velvet.

Well Mohair and silk/ silk/mixes are the way to go.

Both Harrisons and Minnis stock them. Order some swatches even though they aren't ideal for you to assess those qualities you want as said

Blogger blue, that's a new one. Has this shade become the shade of blue du jour?

 

[unbelragazzo]

It's a very #menswear shade. I'm worried a silk mix would be too hot?

 

[Lovelace]



It's a very #menswear shade. I'm worried a silk mix would be too hot?

Silk can run hot true. Depends on the percentage and weight of the cloth.

I can't remember the last time I saw 100% silk suiting.

Minnis have some silk wool mixes in their Ascot II book. Its jacketing, not suiting . So trousers may be out.

I believe Harrison's have a new wool/silk/linen mix book out called MIrage. I've not seen it yet These may be in colours and patterns best suited for summer, though. There may be some dark blues for summer evening wear however.