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whnay.'s good taste thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Jul 30, 2012.

  1. msulinski

    msulinski Well-Known Member

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    This is from yesterday. I'm not sure if I will get docked for the lilac shirt.


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  2. msulinski

    msulinski Well-Known Member

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    From today. I know self-stripe suits are bad, but I'm not sure about shirts.

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  3. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Well-Known Member

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    Foo,

    A question on your pattern matching article. You say to stick to two or three patterns. I get that, but is there any order of preference in where those patterns should be? For instance, in your opinion if one is going to attempt two patterns is it preferable for those patterned items to be the shirt, jacket, tie, or square? I can imagine having a patterned jacket and square, with everything else solid, might look a little awkward. Do you see what I'm saying? Thoughts?
     
  4. mafoofan

    mafoofan Well-Known Member

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    I think the tie is more a problem than than the shirt actually. I realize ties in jacketing cloth and tweed have been all the rage the past couple of years, but they are actually not very useful. You should generally use them to make a worsted suit more casual, not pair them with odd jackets of similar cloth type.
     
  5. mafoofan

    mafoofan Well-Known Member

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    I would avoid putting your two patterns on your tie and square. It tends to further distinguish them as ornaments, which you don't want to do. Putting them on jacket and square can also be problematic, as it blocks off one part of your outfit as patterned and the other as not.

    For two patterns, shirt plus jacket, shirt plus square, and tie plus jacket are more easily worked in my experience.
     
  6. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Well-Known Member

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    Interesting ideas. I have sometimes made my patterned items tie/square, but I can see what you mean by distinguishing them as "ornaments". To use your term, I think this effect is mitigated somewhat by a small, less dense, pattern.
     
  7. mafoofan

    mafoofan Well-Known Member

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    The tie and square are two of the first places anyone puts a pattern, because people tend to see them as obvious opportunities to "express themselves" or be "creative." Hence, the frequent disaster. In truth, when viewed as integrated parts of a whole outfit, you should do everything you can to avoid distinguishing them as a pair.
     
    Last edited: Feb 6, 2013
  8. Manton

    Manton Well-Known Member

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    Slew, FWIW, I liked that suit better when it still had the show buttons.

    I dislike the black shoes less than foo does.
     
  9. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Well-Known Member

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    What do you mean by 'avoid distinguishing them as a pair'? Maybe I'm just reading too much into that phrase -- but, do you mean the pocket square and tie shouldn't look like they're a pair, that is, similar colours, prints etc? Or do you mean (even though the phrase, taken literally, doesn't really mean this) that both the tie and pocket square, as a pair, should 'blend in' with the rest of the outfit?
     
  10. mafoofan

    mafoofan Well-Known Member

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    The point is that you should avoid anything that groups the square and tie together and apart from everything else. That tends to happen when they are the only two components to share a strong distinguishing feature, such as being patterned, or having a certain color. You can solve this by adding that feature to a third component, or taking it away from either the square or tie.
     
  11. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Well-Known Member

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    ^ Thanks for clarifying that.
     
  12. RDiaz

    RDiaz Well-Known Member

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    Well, the cloth is a thick silk + wool blend that I really wouldn't use for a jacket. When you mentioned contrast don't you mean that the tie looks a bit washed off against the shirt?
     
  13. mafoofan

    mafoofan Well-Known Member

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    It's not a question of what it's made of--it's a question of what it looks like and is meant to look like. These sorts of ties are common today, and the clear reference is to suiting and jacketing materials. Nobody is checking the label on your tie and going "Aha! It's not actually jacketing. We're all good."

    Yes, the tie looks washed out with the shirt. But the shirt is fine with the suit, and the tie is not. Hence, the tie is the problem.
     
    Last edited: Feb 6, 2013
  14. aravenel

    aravenel Well-Known Member

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    I'd be interested to see what yall think of the white PS here--there is white in the shirt that it picks up, so I don't think it's a total disconnect.

    Paired with mid-grey flannels and brown semi-brogues. Tie is darker than it appears here, is a burgundy color.

    Also, gave the :foo: fold a try. Not bad, I must say.

    As always, apologies for crappy, overexposed photos.

    [​IMG][​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 6, 2013
  15. dopey

    dopey Well-Known Member

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    I think that is because you are older -- not only have you become more conservative over time (I bet you favor brown over black less often now than you did five years ago), but also your frame of reference is different, haveing started at a time where black was more strictly the norm.
     
  16. RogerC

    RogerC Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the comments, I'll see what I can do on a next attempt. I wouldn't mind, however, some more insight into combining textures/materials. What, for example, is coherent with a tweed jacket?
     
  17. YRR92

    YRR92 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for taking the time to do this -- I think I'll need to develop my eye for pairing blues a little better. I'll also need to pay more attention to how things look when worn -- the pattern density on the tie and the square are very different laid out, but stuffed into a pocket they look similar.

    Quick questions: I have two squares that aren't quite cream silk -- one is a very slightly off-white (such that it reads as white, unless you put it next to something white), and the other is more of a champagne color. I was tempted to use the second, but I decided not to because it seemed too close to the stripe in the tie. Would that have been better or worse than the blue?

    Here's the pic again, so you don't have to scroll around to find it.

    [​IMG]
     
  18. mafoofan

    mafoofan Well-Known Member

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    For what it's worth, I think there are many times black shoes are called for when wearing a suit. Just not here. My general rule is that you need some white for the black to make sense.
     
  19. NOBD

    NOBD Well-Known Member

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    It's a suit, Foo. And I like sloppy folded linen.



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  20. in stitches

    in stitches Well-Known Member

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    foo - thank you for the score, more than i was expecting actually. interesting point about the stripes on the shirt being more pattern than actual stripes. i did not intend for them to be stripes, but i was hoping they would help detract from the fit being overly pattern-less. i guess not quite enough. will try and adjust that next time.

    i am wearing the SC from my monochrome fit again today. i tried to pick a shirt and tie based on some of your comments from last time. i will post it later, i hope it will be considered an improvement.
     

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