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What to do about suit and sport jackets not fitting the naval properly?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mixedmajik, Sep 23, 2013.

  1. RoyalPaJamas

    RoyalPaJamas Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Joined:
    Dec 15, 2009
    Location:
    Columbus, OH
    Great pics!

    The issue, as some have mentioned and as is neatly illustrated in these photos, is the rise of the trousers. The jacket should button and the pants waist should both locate approximately at the navel. The shirt/tie would then be covered by the jacket, even with open quarters, hands in pockets, etc.

    While many modern jackets do have a buttoning point slightly higher than the navel, it is the low-rise trousers that allow exposure of the shirt.
     
  2. mixedmajik

    mixedmajik Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    124
    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2013
    Lots of great responses guys. Ballmouse what you show in those picutures is exactly what I prefer...feels a little odd that I as a student in my younger years am an advocate for that ancient time style and dislike the apparently modern style that my agegroup must prefer these days.

    Justaguy....well harder to not be self-conscious about it when you're posting pictures like that haha. I see your point though.

    Modern styling + the trend of lower rise pants + some popular media celebrities of today I would say are the conclusions we've come to about why the open quarters are looking like this more and more. On top of that...not much a tailor can do about it and it's really not as faux pas as I thought.

    Richard it's reassuring to know other people were wondering about this. I've learned a lot here that I wish I'd known before.
     
    Last edited: Sep 25, 2013
  3. mixedmajik

    mixedmajik Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Jan 10, 2013
    Just letting you guys know Antonio Centeno put up a great video today about this. I'm subscribed to the guy but dang I wish he had put this up a month ago before I bought my most recent 3rd jacket. Almost seems sticky worthy for noobs...is there a better place to put this? Do you guys agree with what he's saying? Any extra steps I should be taking when considering my next jacket besides the doing better homework on the quarters? To be honest I think I will use different pants next time just to make sure. The thing Antonio mentioned about the arms is something I didn't realize that probably would have given me a good indication that the jacket wasn't going to go long enough for me. Granted my arms are extremely long but these jackets I have are not even going past my wrist...granted like I said my natural proportions are not normal.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Sep 25, 2013
  4. The Louche

    The Louche Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Oct 31, 2008
    Location:
    DC
    This video is a good primer for a noob -- I'll give you that. But it doesn't directly address the 'exposed waist' issue that we're discussing here. You can very easily find a jacket that is a good fit given all of the criteria outlined in the video -- including a lack of the 'dreaded X' -- yet still allows for an exposed waist.
     
  5. mixedmajik

    mixedmajik Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    124
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    Jan 10, 2013
    True thats why i thought there was probably a more beneficial place to have put it. I honestly do think my jackets fit well otr like you alluded to in every respect other than this exposed naval triangle which is a shame.
     

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