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What is wrong with the fit of this jacket?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by dblb48, Feb 20, 2012.

  1. dblb48

    dblb48 Well-Known Member

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    I was thrifting today, and stumbled on this suit that was exactly my tagged size. I think it looks ok for a $5 suit, but I am curious as to why the shoulders look as they do? There was plenty of room through the chest, but the arms were tight....is that what causes this weird "bunching"?

    [​IMG]
     
  2. Harbin

    Harbin Well-Known Member

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    shoulders are too big
     
  3. SpooPoker

    SpooPoker Well-Known Member

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  4. dblb48

    dblb48 Well-Known Member

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    ..I don't get it?
     
  5. SpooPoker

    SpooPoker Well-Known Member

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    You have them, divots.
     
  6. texas_jack

    texas_jack Well-Known Member

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    Shoulders are too small
     
  7. dblb48

    dblb48 Well-Known Member

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    ah gotcha...Yea anyone know why? I doubt the shoulders are too big because I only run into this issue when I wear a jacket on the tighter side. (If it matters I have an athletic body, with wide shoulders and back..


    ^^^
    edit: ok that makes sense, thank you.
     
    Last edited: Feb 20, 2012
  8. sborg

    sborg Well-Known Member

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    it certainly looks too big
     
  9. NoCleverName

    NoCleverName Well-Known Member

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    I think he meant that your shoulders are too small, the jacket's shoulders are too big.
     
  10. Harbin

    Harbin Well-Known Member

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    You don't have big shoulders, compared to your waist at least.
     
  11. forbritisheyes

    forbritisheyes Well-Known Member

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    I agree with Harbin - you don't look athletic or have the proportions of an athlete.
     
  12. MyOtherLife

    MyOtherLife Well-Known Member

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    Fortunately for the OP, the divots are not steaming.
     
  13. Birks and Grey Socks

    Birks and Grey Socks Well-Known Member

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    Ill try and be helpful. I have the exact same type of body.

    Your trap muscles make your shoulders slope more than average. So even if you find the right "size" for your chest the shoulders will be too aggressive. if you look carefully, there is a big height difference between your shoulder bone, and the shoulder of the suit. So aggressively padded suits with high armholes are not your friend. You'll run into this problem when you try on suits like RL Black Label, Boss, Z Zegna...etc.

    You complain your arms are tight because your shoulders are dragging down the high armholes. If you shrug your shoulders upward in the mirror, the tightness will be lessened.

    What you need is a very soft shoulder minimally padded suit. Try the classic neopolitan style tailoring with soft shoulders and minimal padding. I usually stick with Corneliani Leader model, most Canalis are also good, but what you are looking for is a very soft shoulder. And a suit for you has to be Canvased. A fused shoulder will not drape over your sloped shoulders as well and cause either side or top divots.
     
    1 person likes this.
  14. Torrente

    Torrente Well-Known Member

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  15. Despos

    Despos Well-Known Member

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    Can't see much from this photo so hard to analyze the fit. Problem with thrifted jackets are they may have been altered to fit the original owner. It may not fit you well due to the adjustments made for another body.
     
  16. dblb48

    dblb48 Well-Known Member

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    To people saying my shoulders aren't much wider than my waist, you realize this is an un-tailored suit therefore it is extremely baggy around the middle correct? Also, the term athlete doesn't mean big upper body alone, I also have 28" quads with a 33" waist which may cause some of the boxy-ness you're perceiving. (Also makes finding pants a motherf*cker haha)

    To the poster who noticed my traps and identified the issue, THANK YOU. That is exactly what is going on, now that you mentioned it. I really appreciate the help. I will be sure to keep your advice handy.
     

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