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Welted vs Blake stitched reg shoes...

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Evsty, Apr 2, 2013.

  1. Evsty

    Evsty New Member

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    I'm a bit new to the higher end shoe world and all of its intricicies...but am looking to buy some new monks and had a quick question. I recently went over to Paul Stuart and the sales rep over there had explained to me that one shoe had the advantage of being stitched a particular way (I can't remember what he said exactly but I think it had to do with the upper sole??) vs the way the other pair was stitched. If it helps - he was comparing a Crocket and Jones Benchgrade (I don't think it was a Handgrage) to a Mangianni. I was actually suprised that Manganni was making shoes for them, I didn't know that. In any case, he mentioned that due to the Crockett being stitched a particular way, they were easier to resole and would lose its shape. Being that this has happened already to me to a favorite pay of boots I had, can anyone explain what he was referring to? I did a quick search and came upon the whole Welted vs Blake Stitch...is that what he was referring to?

    I'm looking for a nice black Double Monk (with more of a european cut) with a nice patina that will last a good 5-10 years and go equally well with jeans and a suit (although I know many people don't like the way they look with jeans). I was leaning toward the C&J Lowends...do they wear well with time? Any other reason NOT to consider them over another? II'd like to keep them south of $700.

    Thanks in advance.
     
  2. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Well-Known Member

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    C&J is fine if you take care of it.

    Goodyear-welt vs. blake is what you are thinking of. Goodyear welted shoes the sole is stitched to a welt, which is attached to the upper. Blake shoes the sole is stitched directly to the upper. There are advantages and disadvantages to both, but ultimately get the shoes that fit you best.
     
  3. Cant kill da Rooster

    Cant kill da Rooster Well-Known Member

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    I am surprised they told you the makers. I can never seem to get it out of them.

    If you are in no rush, check out Leffot as well in Chelsea.
     
    Last edited: Apr 2, 2013
  4. Quadcammer

    Quadcammer Well-Known Member

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    you lost me there
     
    1 person likes this.
  5. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Well-Known Member

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    You and your anti-black bullshit again.
     
  6. chogall

    chogall Well-Known Member

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    You do realize patina can be naturally acquired through aging/oxidation and usage?
     
  7. Quadcammer

    Quadcammer Well-Known Member

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    black shoes serve one purpose. formal events and possible interviews. As such, there should be no patina, they should be well shined and as flawless a possible.

    black shoes with jeans are scary bad.
     
  8. chogall

    chogall Well-Known Member

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    Wrong on so many levels. There will always be acquired patina on used/aged black shoes. Not all "patina" are applied patina such as Berluti or EG.

    With all the black shoes hate on this forum, the new bleached black shoes collections from Cleverley and G&G did garnered a lot of attentions.

    p.s., I don't visit SW&D or SuFu regularly, but black shoes is the stable shoes for goth ninja or rocker look.
     
  9. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Well-Known Member

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    Exactly. I am a goth ninja hence my preference for them.
     
  10. mafoofan

    mafoofan Well-Known Member

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    Have you checked our Ferragamo yet? They have some really awesome designs with real leather soles (not rubber). They are great for when you want some style but need to be just conservative enough.
     
  11. forseti6

    forseti6 Well-Known Member

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    Just a heads up Leffot is in West Village not Chelsea.
     
  12. mafoofan

    mafoofan Well-Known Member

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    Cool! Do they have Ferragamo?
     
  13. Quadcammer

    Quadcammer Well-Known Member

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    not really. they will crease and scuff, but those are simply wear. The best black shoe, is a new black shoe.

    not to mention they are hideous and absolutely pointless.

    I think i've worn my black shoes maybe a handful of times in the past 2 years...and almost any time I wear them I think about how much I should have worn brown.
     
  14. JubeiSpiegel

    JubeiSpiegel Well-Known Member

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    ...
     
    Last edited: Apr 2, 2013
  15. TheWraith

    TheWraith Well-Known Member

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    Black shoe hate is just so stupid!
     
  16. mr monty

    mr monty Well-Known Member

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  17. Evsty

    Evsty New Member

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    Well I actually went over to C&J first and told them that I was going to Paul Stuart after that, which is when they explained that they actually make a lot of their shoes. Apparently they also did a lot for the new Bond movie - it seemed like a lot of wholecuts. Then at PS I told the rep it felt a lot like a Mangianni when he confirmed the mfg.

    Yeah I actually hit Leffot...to be honest I didn't really care for their service. They seemed the least interested to help me or explain anything...maybe they thought I couldn't afford anything since I went in with older worn jeans and beat cowboy boots. But once the sales rep made a snyde remark about trying on the shoes in NON DRESS socks they lost me. Everyone else was extremely friendly and informative. I don't think I'd go back, unless I needed to try on some shoes before ordering online. Sorry guys...be nicer to your customers.
     
  18. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Well-Known Member

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    Strange, Steven is an awesome guy and knows his stuff. Maybe he was out and there was somebody else filling in...

    Then again buy the shoes that you like the best. That is what matters.
     
    Last edited: Apr 3, 2013
  19. mr monty

    mr monty Well-Known Member

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    You usually don't get a proper fit while wearing non dress socks with dress shoes? Unless you usually wear non dress socks with your dress shoes?
     

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