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Washington Post -- Front Page re: bespoke tailors

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by kabert, Nov 1, 2004.

  1. kabert

    kabert Well-Known Member

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    In today's Washington Post, there's a very long front page article about bespoke suits (and to a lesser extent shoes) for men in Washington, DC. Quite interesting. Henry Poole, Cleverley, and DC tailors Baytok and Georges de Paris are mentioned prominently. Interesting also in that the article "names names" about who get bespoke suits in DC (not surprisingly I suppose, they are mostly lawyers -- congressmen, lobbyists and other lawyers).

    Here's the text of the article:

    In the Fine Line of Duty
    For Sartorial Style, D.C.'s Power Brokers Find Tailored Suits Befit Their Needs
    By Maureen Fan

    Washington Post Staff Writer
    Monday, November 1, 2004; Page A01

    Ken Duberstein, uber-lobbyist and former chief of staff for President Ronald Reagan, swept into a second-floor room at the Jefferson Hotel, resplendent in monogrammed cuffs and Hermes tie, looking for the perfect suit.
    The search for this exquisite instrument began discreetly off an elevator reached through the hotel's restaurant. Upstairs, in less than a half-hour, Duberstein ordered a hand-cut, handmade custom suit from Simon Cundey, managing director of Henry Poole & Co., one of the founding tailors on London's Savile Row.


    Simon Cundey of Henry Poole & Co. fits U.S. Ambassador Randall L. Tobias for a custom suit at the Jefferson Hotel.

    Cundey tended to 15 customers over two days last month, almost all based on references or word of mouth. Most were lawyers, foreign diplomats and other accomplished men in middle age who recently slipped into the hotel for timed appointments of no more than 40 minutes, like a low-key, high-powered lunch at a private club.
    If Washington's uniform is the suit, the ultimate expression of power is the hand-cut, handsewn, custom suit. Among Washington aristocracy, few admit publicly to the extravagance. But they're flattered when peers notice a perfect fit, a smooth line, a good fabric, and they make recommendations confidently, like introducing a friend to a special fraternity.
    It's a club whose members include World Bank President James D. Wolfensohn and Secretary of Commerce Donald L. Evans, former NASA administrator Daniel S. Goldin and Arthur Levitt Jr., former chairman of the U.S. Securities and Exchange Commission.
    In the competitive world of custom tailoring, in which tailors charge $2,500 and more and get snippy about their competitors, the stereotype of the rumpled politician seems to have been folded up and stuffed in the back of a closet.
    "In Washington, things have to be well-suited, literally and figuratively," said Duberstein, clad in a navy chalk-striped suit and a crisp blue shirt with white collar. "This gives you the elegance, the style, the conservative dress that speaks volumes about where you've been and what you're all about."
    John B. Henry, entrepreneur and chief executive of an online marketplace for legal work, uses a Georgetown tailor who goes by one name, like Madonna or Cher. "Baytok's an artist, a sculptor. He's just using cloth as his medium," Henry said. "The suits just look better -- they just absolutely hang on you."
    Washingtonians are quick to claim their sartorial conservatism. This isn't Wall Street. No Washingtonians made the final cut this year for Esquire magazine's best dressed men in the world (politicos who did make it included San Francisco Mayor Gavin Newsom and the just-reelected Afghanistan president and fashion plate, Hamid Karzai).
    Politicians aren't the best source of personal style, said Esquire's fashion editor, Nick Sullivan. "I get the feeling that in the corridors of power, the image-mongers are saying, 'Don't wear that tie -- you'll get noticed,' " Sullivan said.
    Yet ask around on the Hill, "Who's the best-dressed member of Congress?" and names quickly surface: David Dreier (R-Calif.) and Jim Ramstad (R-Minn.) in the House. John W. Warner (R-Va.) in the Senate, or perhaps Jon S. Corzine (D-N.J.). Two senators, Gordon Smith (R-Ore.) and Orrin G. Hatch (R-Utah), routinely make the best-dressed lists in Washingtonian magazine.
    The week before Henry Poole & Co. was ensconced in the Jefferson Hotel, George Cleverley Bespoke Shoemakers booked a room, catering to customers willing to sit through two dozen measurements for a custom leather shoe.
    Henry, the entrepreneur, was one of them, having heard about the London shoemaker from star chef Gerard Pangaud, the owner of Gerard's Place.
    It was Ramstad who turned lobbyist Jeff Kimbell on to Baytok, whose suits start at $2,500. "I've got a couple of clients in Jim's district, and he always looks sharp," said Kimbell, who complimented Ramstad on one of his suits and said the congressman then recommended its maker.


    Kimbell is sold on bespoke suits because they last. Others are hooked by the ease of shopping for a new suit after the initial fittings are done.
    Bespoke comes from bespoken, and it means "to speak about your clothes," said Cundey, of Henry Poole & Co. It means a suit is hand-cut and handmade on the premises. A paper pattern is made for each individual. Machine stitching is kept to a minimum.


    Simon Cundey of Henry Poole & Co. fits U.S. Ambassador Randall L. Tobias for a custom suit at the Jefferson Hotel. Made-to-measure suits, sewn by machine in a factory after a tailor takes a customer's measurements, don't travel well, Kimbell said. "I've tried Hong Kong-tailored suits. I gave up on that," Kimbell, 33, said. "I've sort of made the transition from the Brooks Brothers days of my twenties."
    Over the years, Henry Poole & Co. has collected about 200 customers in Washington, Cundey said. Some come to the Jefferson to choose fabrics. Others meet him for trunk shows and fittings in New York twice a year. Henry Poole suits, worn by tastemakers from Napoleon Bonaparte to Winston Churchill, start at $3,600.
    "The achievement is to feel like you're not wearing a suit," Cundey said. "We give you a small armhole so when you reach up, the collar doesn't rise. We balance you up. If you have big hips and are pear-shaped, we try to give you more of a shoulder, so you're more hour-glass shaped."
    Joe Sauro has kept a tailoring shop downtown for 40 years, but he stopped making custom suits 16 years ago when it was no longer profitable for him.
    "Financially, it's the best thing I ever did, going into the formalwear business," he said.
    Photographs of Sauro's well-known clients decorate his shop. Among them are former presidents Richard M. Nixon, Reagan and George H.W. Bush, and President Bush. One recent photo shows Sauro in the White House private residence, measuring the current president before altering one of his suits.
    "Men in my day didn't really pay much attention to what they wore," said Sauro, who still does alterations. "Now, they take better care of their bodies."
    Ambassador Randall L. Tobias, appointed by President Bush to coordinate federal efforts to combat HIV/AIDS, was originally fitted by Henry Poole & Co. more than a decade ago and rarely has to try suits on because he stays in shape.
    "If my suits start not fitting, then I know I'm gaining weight," said Tobias, a former chief executive of pharmaceutical giant Eli Lilly who ordered three suits in 15 minutes at the Jefferson Hotel.
    "I've become very comfortable with the particular design of suit that I like to wear, and every suit is identical," said Tobias, whose gray suit was so well-cut the tools of his craft -- wallet, business cards, PDA -- were invisible. "When I open the jacket, there's a pocket for my BlackBerry and there's a pocket for my cell phone. It's just easier."
    For others, custom tailoring is the only option.
    "If you're like me and you're not totally normal, I need all the help I can get," said former White House counsel C. Boyden Gray, who goes to Baytok because, at 6 feet 6 inches, he cannot find off-the-rack suits that fit.
    "There's nothing wrong with spending a little bit more on your clothes," Gray added. "They last a long time, and you can get another pair of trousers if you rip them."
    Michael Retzer flies into Washington every other week from Greenville, Miss., to serve as treasurer for the Republican National Committee. On many visits, he can be found stopping in for a fitting with Georges de Paris, a 14th Street NW tailor who speaks five languages.
    "It's an extravagance, but it's a good extravagance," Retzer said on a recent visit, standing next to thank-you notes de Paris has posted from President Bush and former President Bill Clinton. "It's always true that well-dressed men and women stand out in a crowd. . . . There are 536 elected officials here, all trying to get to the top of the heap."
     
  2. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Well-Known Member

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    What does it mean "Hong Kong suits don't travel well"? Things like that just strike me as ridiculous cultural putdowns. It can't be the case that all English tailors have the skill of Darren, etc.
     
  3. gregory

    gregory Well-Known Member

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    I agree. That generalization is as broad and as senseless as saying that all English suits are well made. But you have to admit that there is a tinge of snobbery lurking behind that statement.
     
  4. regularjoe

    regularjoe Well-Known Member

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    Probably tried it and made a sweeping generalization. I doubt he's tried WW Chan.

    It's interesting Baytok's name is in the article. If I remember an AskAndy article about DC tailors, Baytok was someone to avoid....
     
  5. MilanoStyle

    MilanoStyle Well-Known Member

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    Some good some bad. One bad experiece will generalize everything bad for that category. I actually want to find asian owned bespoke shop in Toronto. I figure that aisan tailor would understand asian body type better than other athenic background tailors. I could be totally off on this.
     
  6. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Well-Known Member

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    And Georges de Paris as well -- he cuts suits and shirts that make it look like you have a wire running up your back.
     
  7. cuffthis

    cuffthis Well-Known Member

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    I wonder if any of these tailors mentioned were also the tailor for Jim Traficant?

    My sartorial hero, ,lol.
     
  8. Manton

    Manton Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the tip, kabert.

    The author should have checked in with us; we could have saved her from some stupid factual errors.

    BTW, the problems with Georges de Paris' suits are that the stitching is sloppy and the silhouette is blobby.
     
  9. Sevcom

    Sevcom Well-Known Member

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  10. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Well-Known Member

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    Manton, explain what you mean by blobby.
     
  11. Manton

    Manton Well-Known Member

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    From what I have seen, both on his customers and in the shop, he makes a big, sloppy coat with no refinement whatsoever. It has a waist, but it might as well not, because it is so huge in the chest and hips. It looks like a sack suit with shoulders extended by a full inch, the gorge over the chestplate, and the waist at the hips. Not my thing at all.
     
  12. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Well-Known Member

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  13. kabert

    kabert Well-Known Member

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    I wonder if his suits generally seem "blobby" because (i) that's his style, or (ii) his clients are invariably overweight, pear-shaped men who need the help of blobby suits with large shoulders to make them look less pear-shaped, or (iii) because few slim men get suits made by him.

    Anyway, this article is undoubtedly going to be a huge boost to Baytok's business. Having Boyden Gray (former White House counsel, etc.) as a client, and having it stated so on the front page of the Post, is definitely a good thing.... The article is certainly good for Poole's business too.
     
  14. Manton

    Manton Well-Known Member

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    Doesn't the Post have fact-checkers? Â They should have checked with us. 1) "100s" does not refer to "yarn count" but to the diameter of individual wool fibers. 2) The tailor takes measurements at the initial consutation, or order, not at the first fitting. Â And the first fitting is called the "basted fitting," not the "base fitting." Â The lapels cannot both "lie flat" and "roll nicely." Â The should roll so that the outer edges are touching the coat from from the gorge to about two-thirds of the way down, where they should lift off the front and roll to the button. 3) 1/2" of shirt sleeve showing is the Savile Row standard. Â Some prefer 3/8", especially on shorter men, but 1/4" is too little. 4) No one (except Georges de Paris -- seriously.) makes a single slit buttonhole, except on the lapel. Â The alternative is between teardrop buttonholes or keyhole buttonholes. Â Most SR tailors make the latter; the Italians tend to make the former. Â This has no effect whatever on whether the buttonhole is hand-stitched. Â Any shape buttonhole can be hand-stitched or machine-made. Â Hardly any bespoke tailors stitch the seat or any of the straight trouser seams by hand. Â And what is a "double hand-stitched seat seam" anyway? How's that for pedandtic. The suit in the picutre looks good, though. Â Although I don't like that enormous tie knot.
     
  15. Manton

    Manton Well-Known Member

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    It's probably a combination of all of the above.

    I would add one more factor.  The blobby, low gorge, low waist, center vented two-button suit became the American standard some time in the last third of the last century.  It was sold from Spokane to St. Petersburg, from San Diego to ... Bangor.  (Sorry, don't know any towns in Maine that start with "S".)  It also became the uniform of official Washington, because of its ubiquity in every region of the US, and because politicians generally do not want to outdress their constituents.  To some extent, Georges probably adapted his silhouette to the demands of the marketplace.
     
  16. johnw86

    johnw86 Well-Known Member

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    Sebago. (Maine...) [​IMG]
     
  17. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Well-Known Member

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    Traditionally the trouser seat is hand stitched utilizing a backstitch. Backstitch has the advantage of being a stronger as well as a more flexible seam than a plain machine seam. Backstitch looks from the upper side like an ordinary plain seam, from the underside, as the stitches overlap, it is like double stitching. http://www.fiber-images.com/Free_Th....hes.htm
     
  18. Manton

    Manton Well-Known Member

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    Ah. Thanks for the info.

    Okay, I figured out what the Post meant by "double seam"; it appears to be the same principle as a single needle shirt seam: the entire length of the seam is sewn twice. Except in the case of the trouser back seam, it is sewn once on each side, rather than twice on the same side.

    I looked at all my Savile Row suits: none of them appear to have a hand-sewn back seam. Neither do my two suits from Naples, which otherwise have absurd amounts of handwork. Maybe I am unlucky.
     

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