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Wardrobe overhaul

Discussion in 'Menswear Advice' started by Myshkin, Jun 3, 2016.

  1. Myshkin

    Myshkin Member

    Messages:
    15
    Joined:
    Jun 3, 2016
    After years of schlubdom, I've decided I need to overhaul my wardrobe. But I'm wary of ending up buying junk---I recently got two overpriced ties off Yoox that feel like they're made from plastic, despite claims of being 100% silk. So I'm hoping the more knowledgable people here can steer me toward better choices.

    Here's a wish list of items I'm looking to get started with:

    - A medium-grey suit in the £200-400 range. I recently tossed a couple of older, terribly fitting and very cheap suits from my closet, leaving me with only one (charcoal, from Ede & Ravenscroft). I'm thinking of going to Suit Supply or TM Lewin, but I'm not sure if they're the best choices. I usually find that suits don't fit me well because my lower body is disproportionately large; even after letting out as much as possible in the seat, the trousers still end up feeling tight. Are there good places to buy in London that let you choose the trousers and jacket sizes separately?

    - A pair of brown dress shoes, preferably open-toe Oxford or Derby. A derby that could be worn with both jeans and suits would be ideal. I've been looking at Allen Edmonds Carlyle in dark chili, Barker Banbury, or Loake Gables. Any good alternatives in the £100-£200 range? Or any sizing advice for the ones I mentioned? I wear a 10.5G in my casual shoes (Clarks) and a 10G in Loake's 026 last.

    - Cufflinks. I'm looking for something square or rectangular, metallic with maybe some blue or black. Some of the ones I've been considering:
    http://www.hugoboss.com/cufflinks-'e-totake'/hbeu50289230.html
    http://shop.edeandravenscroft.com/products/silver-and-onyx-square-cufflink-89752 (probably more than I'm willing to pay for something I'll rarely wear)
    http://www.tmlewin.co.uk/Silver-Met...988,en_GB,pd.html?cgid=Mens-Cufflinks&start=0

    - Ties: I have no idea where to get nice ties with designs and widths I like. I'm looking for ties with 7-8cm width, with the following designs:
    - striped/repp with grey, blue, or black being the dominant colors
    - solid, dark navy/midnight blue
    - foulard with dark blue background and one or two interlocking patterns in lighter blue. Something like this: http://shop.edeandravenscroft.com/collections/ties/products/navy-teardrop-twill-woven-silk-tie-89243 But I'm not a fan of the teardrops (and the price is pretty high).

    - Jeans that actually fit me. Jeans are consistently too tight around the thighs and seat, and too loose around the waist. (This has always been a problem for me, but especially since I started squatting and deadlifting.) The best overall fit I've found is Levis 541, but even they aren't ideal. I have a pair of ugly Old Navy wide legs that fit my thighs and waist perfectly, but they have no taper and billow ridiculously around my calves.

    - A lightweight grey wool jacket. I have a heavy wool coat that's far too warm for British winters, and I'm looking for something lighter that would double as a fall/spring jacket. A couple I'm considering are the J Crew university coat and Le Laboureur, but I don't know how heavy they are.

    - A casual linen longsleeve button up shirt. I often find that because of my proportions, I need to tuck in my shirts (or have very slim fitting shirts) to avoid them looking like a tent. But most shirts seem to be both very large around the waist and too short to stay tucked.


    Any and all advice is welcome.
     
  2. Claghorn

    Claghorn Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    10,003
    Joined:
    Aug 21, 2012
    Location:
    Texas.
    - Given your issues with pants, Suit Supply, normally a safe rec, probably won't work. I can't recall if they allow you to get different sized pants as separates. If you are in London, you might look into @kent wang, whose prices for MTM start around the upper limits of your range, I think.

    - If you don't like Loake, check out Meermin. Decent shoes for the price.

    - Ties: @Sam Hober. The product is wonderful, the price is good, and the customer service is otherworldly. If you want tie recommendations, I suggest asking in Noodle's Good Natured Advice Thread in the main Classic Menswear forum. The denizens there love that kind of question.

    - can't help you with the jeans

    - No clue about the jacket either.

    - Spier & Mackay and Luxire both have great MTM derives for shirts at excellent prices
     
    1 person likes this.
  3. Myshkin

    Myshkin Member

    Messages:
    15
    Joined:
    Jun 3, 2016
    Thanks for the suggestions. I hadn't even considered going MTM/bespoke for the ties or shirts.

    I've just perused the Suit Supply website, and it looks like they do sell the pants and jacket as separates as part of their "blue line tailoring" service. I noticed that Charles Tyrwhitt and the M&S "Savile Row Inspired" line also let you do that. Are either of those reasonably good quality? I remember hearing that the M&S are half-canvas.

    I'm a couple hours out of London, but I visit there at least a few times a year.

    I like the pair of Loakes I have: Scafell in black, from the high end of the Shoemaker range. But shoes seem to be on sale so often that I figure it's best to have a variety of options to look for on discount. (I just noticed I said I wanted "open toe Oxfords". No idea what that means, but I meant plain toe.)
     
  4. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member

    Messages:
    33,235
    Joined:
    Mar 8, 2002
    Location:
    Moscow, Idaho
    I'll address the jeans and jacket questions.

    The jeans that you are looking for are the "High tapered" model by Japan Blue:
    http://www.blueowl.us/collections/j...ge-denim-high-tapered-fit?variant=12155965057
    which have roomier thighs and seat and a narrow hem.
    They are not cheap, though less expensive if you get them from Japan. If you get them from Japan, we have a deal with Zenmarket, the proxy service that I personally use, that you can see here (http://www.styleforum.net/t/518233/...ervice-zenmarket-jp-official-affiliate-vendor). The drawback is... no returns. So maybe order domestically first (or from the US, I could find no UK stockists), and then for subsequent pairs, order from Japan (showrooming is not cool).

    For wool jackets, I would look no further than the UK's SEH Kelly (www.sehkelly.com) They have nothing like you are looking for right now, but I would keep an eye out there. They outerwear often sells out extremely quickly. Paul also posts in a thread here: http://www.styleforum.net/t/277070/s-e-h-kelly
     
    2 people like this.
  5. Myshkin

    Myshkin Member

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    15
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    Jun 3, 2016
    1 person likes this.
  6. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member

    Messages:
    33,235
    Joined:
    Mar 8, 2002
    Location:
    Moscow, Idaho
    I'd forgotten about Okayadenim. They are good - the service is not as sharp as that of Blue Owl, but on the other hand, you do get a considerable savings...

    Cheers,

    Fok.
     
    Last edited: Jun 6, 2016
  7. Myshkin

    Myshkin Member

    Messages:
    15
    Joined:
    Jun 3, 2016
    I went ahead and ordered those Japan Blues from Okayadenim. Looking forward to getting them.
     

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