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Vienna Holtzgenagelt

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by the.chikor, Dec 30, 2007.

  1. fritzl

    fritzl Well-Known Member

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    Gmunden, Salzkammergut, Austria
    Panda Bears in HK could develop and liking for them too!

    HK pandas seem to have a refined taste and an excellent sense for style. [​IMG]
     
  2. fritzl

    fritzl Well-Known Member

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    This is what my fuss is all about.

    Maker: Maftei
    Model: Slatin Pasha with Goyserer welt, holzgenagelt

    One of my favourites. Fully bespoke. The trees are vintage(thrifted). Did not like the spring loaded, which have been their standard at that time. Will upgrade to their fancy stuff, soon.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  3. fritzl

    fritzl Well-Known Member

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    Welt and heel:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  4. fritzl

    fritzl Well-Known Member

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    Maker: Maftei
    Model: Norweger, Nile perch, holzgenagelt

    Just in case, I took them out of the rotation, with a one day wear.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  5. fritzl

    fritzl Well-Known Member

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    Sole and heel:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  6. fritzl

    fritzl Well-Known Member

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  7. dopey

    dopey Well-Known Member

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    Thank you for taking the time and effort to photograph and post those. I like the lasts, generally and the construction is interesting, but will take some time for me to look at more carefully.

    I especially like the design of the perch shoe, though exotics are not for me.

    Do the woven shoes really offer much benefit in terms of coolness for summer given that they are lined, or is the woven pattern more a matter of style?
     
  8. speedster.8

    speedster.8 Well-Known Member

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    Thank you for taking the time and effort to photograph and post those. I like the lasts, generally and the construction is interesting, but will take some time for me to look at more carefully. I especially like the design of the perch shoe, though exotics are not for me.
    +1 Stunning construction on the Nile perch, Im sure the leather is much nicer live [​IMG] I actually communicated with Maftei to day, as i will be in Frankfurt in roughly a month and Berlin in aprox 2. I wanted to know if they had any shoes shown. And I got some quotes, they do hand sewn welted sole for 100€ more. What would you say are the benefits of either [​IMG] As for the "heel shots" Im more facinated by them on a seamless [​IMG] Thanks Speed
     
  9. fritzl

    fritzl Well-Known Member

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    Do the woven shoes really offer much benefit in terms of coolness for summer given that they are lined, or is the woven pattern more a matter of style?

    Dopey, the woven leather is applied to a fleece. That would made me think it has to be lined. There are some decisions I always leave to the craftsman. But, I will do a research, if you can make them without/partial or a different lining.

    The "Slatin Pasha" is a style invented by Rudolf Carl von Slatin who used the Salzkammergut as his summer resort. It is a reminiscent to him and I can wear them with the traditional Lederhosen [​IMG].

    Ready for mor pictures?
     
  10. fritzl

    fritzl Well-Known Member

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    +1

    Stunning construction on the Nile perch, Im sure the leather is much nicer live [​IMG]

    I actually communicated with Maftei to day, as i will be in Frankfurt in roughly a month and Berlin in aprox 2. I wanted to know if they had any shoes shown.

    And I got some quotes, they do hand sewn welted sole for 100€ more.
    What would you say are the benefits of either [​IMG]

    As for the "heel shots" Im more facinated by them on a seamless [​IMG]

    Thanks

    Speed


    It is a bit nicer [​IMG]

    I am a dedicated "lover" of holzgenagelt. I would say it is a personal preference. Some say the gyw, if we talk bespoke, is a bit more flexible.

    Don't get me wrong speed, but you can discuss this topic for hours. You cannot go wrong with either. Maftei is sewing the first layer of the sole(experts please don't kill me for the amateurish description) to the upper and then apply the holzgenagelt.

    Sorry speed, I do not have seamless shoes yet. [​IMG]
     
  11. fritzl

    fritzl Well-Known Member

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    Do the woven shoes really offer much benefit in terms of coolness for summer given that they are lined,

    Ok, just received an answer.

    As said, the woven leather is applied to a fleece and needs to be lined, at least partial.

    There is one maker, do not know the name yet, who uses handwoven leather and "skips" the lining. He does not sell it, neither tells, where it is from.
     
  12. the.chikor

    the.chikor Well-Known Member

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  13. speedster.8

    speedster.8 Well-Known Member

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    Excellent I for one will look forward to that
    .
    Speed
     
  14. luk-cha

    luk-cha Well-Known Member

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    Excellent I for one will look forward to that
    .
    Speed


    +1[​IMG]
     
  15. dopey

    dopey Well-Known Member

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    Thank you, gentlemen, for the responses.
     
  16. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Well-Known Member

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    Dopey, the woven leather is applied to a fleece. That would made me think it has to be lined.
    I never had any shoes made from woven leather strips, but I had various plaited belts. They have a tendency to stretch ad infinitum; I presume the same would happen with un-backed leather weave, particular in the flex points. That backing might well be necessary for the shoes to keep their shape.

    But, keep in mind, like Mr. and Mrs. Maftei explained to me three days ago, in Vienna, social norms dictate this sort of last as popular and socially acceptable. Thus, Maftei must produce this style of last. However, this does not mean that Maftei does not or can not produce any other type of last that you want. They like producing rounded waists for me, but they said that no one in Vienna would wear them if they produced them on a regular basis.
    Oops. Now we know. ............Fritzl it's the likes of you, that is holding Maftei back. [​IMG]
     
  17. the.chikor

    the.chikor Well-Known Member

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    Oops. Now we know. ............Fritzl it's the likes of you, that is holding Maftei back. [​IMG]


    Fritzl, them sounds like fightin' words.[​IMG]
     
  18. fritzl

    fritzl Well-Known Member

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    Fritzl, them sounds like fightin' words.[​IMG]

    Not at all. It is good to have bs around. He is more knowledgeable than me, when it comes to English shoes.

    Unfortunately he did not participate in the Austro-Hungarian thread yet.

    He has "worked" with KR Georg Materna and IIRC he has shoes from Andreas Kudweis, so he owns pieces from both sides of the pond.

    As I am "working" on a new pair of shoes with a young talented maker - Shoes will be finished in April - and it is again an exciting thing to see a different approach.
     
  19. the.chikor

    the.chikor Well-Known Member

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    Not at all. It is good to have bs around. He is more knowledgeable than me, when it comes to English shoes.

    Unfortunately he did not participate in the Austro-Hungarian thread yet.

    He has "worked" with KR Georg Materna and IIRC he has shoes from Andreas Kudweis, so he owns pieces from both sides of the pond.

    As I am "working" on a new pair of shoes with a young talented maker - Shoes will be finished in April - and it is again an exciting thing to see a different approach.


    Nice thread, by the way, Fritzl.[​IMG]
     

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