1. Welcome to the new Styleforum!

    We hope you’re as excited as we are to hang out in the new place. There are more new features that we’ll announce in the near future, but for now we hope you’ll enjoy the new site.

    We are currently fine-tuning the forum for your browsing pleasure, so bear with any lingering dust as we work to make Styleforum even more awesome than it was.

    Oh, and don’t forget to head over to the Styleforum Journal, because we’re giving away two pairs of Carmina shoes to celebrate our move!

    Please address any questions about using the new forum to support@styleforum.net

    Cheers,

    The Styleforum Team

    Dismiss Notice

Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. Pliny

    Pliny Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,880
    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2009
    It drapes a bit beter than pure cashmere, imo, which, depending on weight & make, can hang like a litle shapelessly, like a blanket.
     
  2. semperexcelsius

    semperexcelsius Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    420
    Joined:
    Oct 24, 2014
    Hey guys, I'm here at the recommendation of the GNAT. I'll be visiting LL in the fall and was originally planning on just talking to him about fabric selection, but I figured I'd get some of the expertise found here.

    I'm looking for a navy worsted that I can wear for as much of the year as possible in NY/the northeast (I need the versatility as I'm building a wardrobe from scratch more or less), so whatever weight that puts me at.

    Optimally, it would be a fine fabric (soft to the touch, comfortable, etc.) but first and foremost is durability because it'll be a work suit.

    I greatly appreciate any help you guys can offer me.
     
  3. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    10,815
    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2013
    Location:
    Los Angeles
    You should just let him know what you want, and he can guide you. He might have some dead stock or special fabrics that most of us don't have access too/haven't used, and he'll know best. Just be sure what you're looking for
     
  4. semperexcelsius

    semperexcelsius Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    420
    Joined:
    Oct 24, 2014
    Thanks! I'll definitely be sure to solicit his opinion no matter what's posted here, but hearing some possibilities might be good so I can have ideas in mind when I go in, and also for comparison's sake with anything special he might have.
     
    1 person likes this.
  5. zalb916

    zalb916 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,623
    Joined:
    Dec 26, 2006
    One aspect of fabric that this thread can fail to appreciate (myself included) is how well it makes up for a tailor. Us cloth nerds often just don't know how a cloth tailors. A lot to learn here. A lot of fun discussions to be had. But trust your professional tailor who really knows his cloth better than us internet "experts." We often get enamored for the wrong reasons.
     
    1 person likes this.
  6. sprout2

    sprout2 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,236
    Joined:
    Apr 13, 2012
    Location:
    Mom's basement
  7. xizenta

    xizenta Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    455
    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2011
    
    weight and finish is correct. I don't remember them having that pattern though.
     
  8. sprout2

    sprout2 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,236
    Joined:
    Apr 13, 2012
    Location:
    Mom's basement
    Hopefully @tchoy can comment. This is BnTailor
     
  9. tchoy

    tchoy Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,467
    Joined:
    Sep 16, 2004
    Location:
    Sydney, Australia
    4 people like this.
  10. justinkapur

    justinkapur Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    8,017
    Joined:
    Feb 28, 2010
    God damn that's gorgeous
     
    1 person likes this.
  11. sprout2

    sprout2 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,236
    Joined:
    Apr 13, 2012
    Location:
    Mom's basement
    @tchoy so I take it this is a bit on the heavier side? How many grams?

    Is that subscription long since closed?
     
  12. tchoy

    tchoy Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,467
    Joined:
    Sep 16, 2004
    Location:
    Sydney, Australia
    

    It's not a heavy weight tweed if I recall it was 14 oz / 400 Grams and being Shetland it wears quite light.

    Yes this was a remade of the LLTW07 tweed the subscription was about 2 years ago now.
     
    Last edited: Jul 15, 2015
  13. MrChris

    MrChris Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    577
    Joined:
    Jul 31, 2010
    Location:
    Sweden
    Gentlemen I'm on the hunt for a fall/winter herringbone jacketing, not too heavy, wool or wool/cashmere blend. Something similar to the Drapers illustrated below.
    I would greatly appreciate your recommendations, thanks!

    [​IMG]
     
  14. poorsod

    poorsod Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,057
    Joined:
    Apr 13, 2005
    

    I think Holland and Sherry Crispaire is a good jack-of-all-trades workhorse. The hand is in between a fresco and worsted. I have a coat made from it almost 10 years ago and have worn it threadbare but I still like it.

    Alternatively Eustace Tilley has said that 11 oz worsted is the optimal weight if you are looking for 1 suit to wear year round. I think he is about right.
     
    1 person likes this.
  15. yasu10s

    yasu10s Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    83
    Joined:
    Dec 16, 2010
    If anyone is looking to sell the discontinued H. Lesser fabric made by Carlo Barbera: ref.26070 (see pic attached), please PM me.

    [​IMG]
     
  16. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    10,815
    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2013
    Location:
    Los Angeles
    Any update on what you're currently working on?

    Would love to see some blended fabrics (wool/silk/linen, mohair blends, etc)
     
  17. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    33,325
    Joined:
    Oct 16, 2006
    Location:
    New York City
    Has anybody ever commissioned, or thought about commissioning a leather jacket from a tailor? Aside from whether they would or not, I wonder if they could. Of course fittings are out of the question because, well, you can't stitch and restitch leather, but I am curious if you could get a muslin jacket made first then translate it into leather. Working with leather might be a completely different skill set so I don't know.
     
  18. bourbonbasted

    bourbonbasted Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,024
    Joined:
    Apr 27, 2011
    

    Taub did one for Crompton...

    http://www.permanentstyle.co.uk/2013/07/the-bespoke-leather-jacket-part-1.html
     
    1 person likes this.
  19. TRINI

    TRINI Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    9,025
    Joined:
    Sep 7, 2006
    

    Abraham Moon.

    [​IMG]



    I've had Johnson Leathers in SF make me a custom motorcycle leather jacket based off of a vintage eBay find that I sent them.

    They made me a cloth fitting jacket to ensure proper fit (at extra cost) and that seemed to work well.

    Not sure why anyone would want a leather blazer though..... :crazy:
     
  20. OxfordDon

    OxfordDon Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    53
    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2013
    Location:
    London
    

    Is that a one-piece back?
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by