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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. EliodA

    EliodA Well-Known Member

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  2. Penfold

    Penfold Well-Known Member

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    Should sew a big leather covered button onto the top of the, um, rear split. Just for teh lolz.
     
    1 person likes this.
  3. sprout2

    sprout2 Well-Known Member

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    So who makes a tweed like the second one? (Kylnadrochit)
     
  4. Shinystuffbuyer

    Shinystuffbuyer Well-Known Member

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    So now I have the fabric for the overcoat (50% cashmere, 50% lump's golden bale). Most of the use will be for walking in NYC (will wear it over a sweater) during the colder months. I might also wear it driving around in NJ. Before I head to the tailor, here are some questions.

    What is the right "kind" of coat? A chesterfield?
    Single breasted or double? What's in style?
    What length? Just below the knee?
    What about patch pockets?
    What lining should I go for?
    Any other special instructions?
     
    Last edited: Apr 30, 2015
  5. Andy57

    Andy57 Well-Known Member

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    That is a handsome jacket.
     
    1 person likes this.
  6. Concordia

    Concordia Well-Known Member

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    That's the current one from their books? Pretty flat and dry, IIRC.

    It could make a nice no-nonsense SB, with fly front. No patch pockets or anything silly, and do make it down to your knee or just below. If I've got the cloth correctly in my mind, a velvet collar won't fit in too well.

    DB is also possible. Again, it's a very urban-looking cloth, so don't go wild with trench-coat details. 6x2 and MAYBE turn-back cuffs (but probably not) should be just great.

    Lining is totally up to you, although someone on this board (I think) said he'd never thought he'd seen a coat that could be improved with an interesting lining. Match the main fabric. You'll never regret it.
     
    Last edited: Apr 30, 2015
  7. Grammaton Cleric

    Grammaton Cleric Well-Known Member

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    Note that InTweed simply re-sells lengths from mills at a premium. It's a nice service, but cheaper / easier to go to the source.

    For example, some of the green tweeds referenced above are from Islay Woolen Mill. Glenlyon also has some beautiful green tweeds.
     
    2 people like this.
  8. Pliny

    Pliny Well-Known Member

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    lump's golden bale lol


    If u search 'best bespoke commission ever' you'll find a thread with some useful ideas IIRC
     
  9. Shinystuffbuyer

    Shinystuffbuyer Well-Known Member

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    Damn autocorrect. Oh well, I've had worser slips.

    Thanks Concordia, you're the best.
     
  10. Shinystuffbuyer

    Shinystuffbuyer Well-Known Member

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    Sorry, I tend to be somewhat persistent.

    Without increasing the overall weight by too much, what is the lining fabric? Silk? Bemberg?

    Also, Concordia, you said "flat and dry". What does that mean?
     
  11. WeakMonday

    WeakMonday Well-Known Member

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    Anyone ever try the john foster capetown three ply mohair? I'm thinking of getting some in dark grey
     
  12. Concordia

    Concordia Well-Known Member

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    Never heard of it, although the Pepperlee.co.uk site has some nice-looking ones, in more colors than offered by Minnis and Harrison. I wonder if it's the same mill.

    Also on that site-- Halstead "Explorer" which seems to be in the Fresco vein, and Escorial in a lot of patterns that aren't flashy.
     
  13. WeakMonday

    WeakMonday Well-Known Member

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    Yea I'm wondering if they are all just made at halstead and sold as separate brands at pepper lee... I will see if I can get some samples
     
  14. Pliny

    Pliny Well-Known Member

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    AFAIK Halstead is woven at the Dudley Mill, and John Foster at the Stanley Mill, both in Bradford, and Joshua Ellis' mill is halfway between Bradford and Huddersfield. Dunno who does their finishing. Luxury Fabrics is the merchant. Pepper Lee is the online site.

    the relationships r complicated tho... it's hard to tell sometimes who's a weaver, finisher, or merchant. Some of the weavers don't actually weave but just commission others t.
     
    2 people like this.
  15. Arno

    Arno Active Member

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    I like a heavier satin lining for overcoats instead of the usual twill and plain weaves.
    LBD makes nice satin lining. It's very slippery, which is good for an overcoat and the weight/feel matches the heavy weight of overcoat cloths.
     
    1 person likes this.
  16. forex

    forex Well-Known Member

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    Gents, have a couple more of these left. Top two from left and middle two from right, also have couple of suitings, please pm if there is any interest.
     
  17. PCK1

    PCK1 Well-Known Member

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    Did this Delfino Inky Blue with NMWA & Formosa for SC...

    Thinking about adding a pair of trousers to make it a full suit...thoughts on whether it is suitable as a trouser? it is a 9oz hemp and wool blend...

    It may not hold a crease great...and will def wrinkle...but that is part of the look with a lightweight fabric...concern really is whether it will hold up as a trouser...it won't get worn a lot...maybe 10-15 times per year

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 1, 2015
  18. Concordia

    Concordia Well-Known Member

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    If you're that worried about your commute on the bike, get a second pair.
     
  19. PCK1

    PCK1 Well-Known Member

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    i drive everywhere...
     
  20. xizenta

    xizenta Well-Known Member

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    I think it will hold up fine. 9oz hemp/wool does not sound fragile to me at all.
     

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