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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. Cleav

    Cleav Well-Known Member

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    Looks like flannel? I say!
     
  2. tchoy

    tchoy Well-Known Member

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    Last edited: Nov 18, 2014
  3. UrbanComposition

    UrbanComposition Well-Known Member

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    What are the names of the flannel-esque fabric, pB?
     
  4. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Well-Known Member

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    This is actually very common.


    P&B Universal. The whole book.
     
    Last edited: Nov 18, 2014
  5. tchoy

    tchoy Well-Known Member

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    I have the original Agnelli tweed still not make up, yours came out very well is it flannel or tweed?

    Next time let's us know here if you going to do another group run.
     
  6. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Well-Known Member

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    Lesser also has a very matte finish, in all the weights.

    Or at least did - I honestly haven't seen the new books.
     
  7. dan'l

    dan'l Well-Known Member

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    Any tips on what to look out for? I imagine with certain fabrics (i.e. cavalry twill) there is only one way to cut them, but is it actually possible to use different sides of the fabric?
     
  8. UrbanComposition

    UrbanComposition Well-Known Member

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    What has been your experience with it? Sturdy? Keeps a crease?
     
  9. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Well-Known Member

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    I have the 8/9oz as well as the 11/12oz. Never / haven't yet gotten around to trying the really heavy 16oz stuff.

    But what I have is sturdier and holds a crease better than anything else out there (that I know or have heard of).

    Harrisons site says they'll be relaunching the HL ranges. I can only hope they'll keep them exactly the same.
     
  10. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Well-Known Member

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    Everything Lesser makes is matte.
     
  11. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Well-Known Member

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    TWIS
     
  12. PCK1

    PCK1 Well-Known Member

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    Agreed....let us know...I would be interested in buying some too!
     
  13. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Well-Known Member

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    Get the pants made first and then have the tailor who is going to do the jacket check to see which way the pattern on the pants is faced.
     
  14. PCK1

    PCK1 Well-Known Member

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    I think I saw Mark Cho of the Armoury do this with a Liverano SC and Ambrosi trousers...

    might have even been a Ring Jacket SC tho...
     
  15. mack11211

    mack11211 Well-Known Member

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    The Duke of Windsor had his coats made in London and his trousers in New York. The reason may have been the London tailors' reluctance to use zippers. Here is one of his transatlantic suits.

    But yes, if there is any patterned cloth, make sure every piece is facing in the same direction.
     
    Last edited: Nov 18, 2014
  16. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Well-Known Member

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    Zipper is a new one.

    I had always heard it was because he wanted belted (rather than braced) trousers.

    But also he was the d00k so he could do whatever he wanted.
     
  17. Manton

    Manton Well-Known Member

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    According to his book (second book) it was because Scholte would only cut high waisted brace trousers and he wanted lower rise belt trousers.
     
  18. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Well-Known Member

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    TWIS
     
  19. bwooster

    bwooster Member

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    Caraceni Milan has the best silhouette by far to me, IMO combines the best of all tailoring styles. So tough to find online or real world examples outside of northern Italy. Chris, is this style a specialty of yours? Construction-wise, would love to know what makes it so special. Thanks.
     
    1 person likes this.
  20. Fishball

    Fishball Well-Known Member

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    Hi Choy, They are Fox Flannel, since I don't want it to be same as LL Agnelli Tweed, I also add a narrow white line adjacent to the blue line.
    It was woven to the same standard of the LL Eden in Paris, of course in a fraction of price.

    Actually, I have thought of letting you guys know, but as I said, it sold out in less than 48 hrs after I announced the group buy.
    One thing unlike the LL group buy, the mill doesn't doing the cut up and shipping to individual subscribers, it is much easier for me to ask the HKers to pick up their own cloth than me doing the cut up and shipping to overseas.

    I think it will remain mystery why LL is selling more than double of my price, I just don't know how it was operated.
    I can tell you even selling at USD65/m, I still can make a little profit from it.
     
    Last edited: Nov 18, 2014
    2 people like this.

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