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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Well-Known Member

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    Green or blue Donegal would both be awesome.
     
  2. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Well-Known Member

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  3. Stencil

    Stencil Well-Known Member

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    @lordsuperb , if you feel a crimson or purple shetland is something you could wear comfortably, if it suits your taste, and if your wardrobe can accommodate it, then commission one. I suspect many on this forum, and in this thread in particular, have somewhat more conservative tastes, and solicited recommendations will reflect that. I would never wear an odd jacket like Crompton's above (I wouldn't even know how or where!), but I won't venture to say that it doesn't look good on him. To each his own. The swatches you posted are all lovely, however loud.

    Just don't make it orange!
     
  4. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Well-Known Member

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    There have been a few bold dressers to pass through this forum, and many of them have a style that I admire (Tirailleur1, LabelKing, Barima, etc). Here's Barima in a purple sport coat, for example. I think he looks fantastic.


    [​IMG]

    What makes their style work, I don't know. But I imagine a lot of it is just venturing out on your own with little regard for what other people say.

    But yes, people's taste on this forum -- and this thread especially -- tends to be a lot more conservative. I say commission what you want. Just know most people here can't help you decide between a red and purple sport coat. You might have better success PMing certain members on here who have a style you admire (and are equally bold).
     
    Last edited: Aug 31, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  5. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Well-Known Member

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    Barima looks awesome in that jacket. Probably not a coincidence that all three of those guys you mention have really thorough knowledge of fashion history, and I would guess have spent a lot of time in thrift and consignment shops. They're not guys who decided they wanted to start dressing well and headed to a bespoke tailor to look at swatches the next day.
     
    4 people like this.
  6. Stencil

    Stencil Well-Known Member

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    Even Vox once posted a photo of a near-lime-green odd jacket, I believe.
     
  7. mktitsworth

    mktitsworth Well-Known Member

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    I wouldn't call either of them lime green, but yes. Something else the four - Trailleur, LabelKing, Barima, and Vox - have in common though is a rather deep bench from which to draw.
     
  8. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Well-Known Member

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    Tastes on this forum tend to be more classical and conservative. I generally include myself in the classical and conservative category, though I do wear things like Nantucket Reds too. Good taste is important, but your confidence and how you carry what you wear is important too. I don't like every bold look, but the ones I do I wear without a care in the world and with the confidence that I look good. When one has experience dressing oneself elegantly and knows what one is doing and then says, "F-ck it, I want this," it can work.

    I do think it is possible to combine classical good taste, a bit of boldness from time to time and that confidence. I think the confidence is the most important part, though. Certain things will always look better objectively from an aesthetic standpoint, but in the real world we are judged by a mix of aesthetics and presence. Presence is based at least in part on confidence, so if you can stand to wear something, be made fun of, and still hold the room, go nuts. If you are not that super-confident, go with something more traditionally in good taste and maybe a bit more subtle.
     
  9. ltontheqt

    ltontheqt Well-Known Member

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    Couple things. How warm does 14 ounces wear? My tailor-to-be suggested that I will wear a coat over the sport jacket most of the time, so weight is not that essential. Is it aesthetics more than anything else? A bit about nomenclature as well. What makes a cloth tweed? In other words, I just looked at a swatch online of blue herringbone. It is 100 percent lambswool. Normally I would associate herringbone with tweed. But is this something else? I thought earlier that you had distinguished lambswool from tweed. Maybe I'm splitting hairs. Sorry if this is an obvious or stupid question.
     
  10. FlyingMonkey

    FlyingMonkey Well-Known Member

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    I should add that at least some of the conservatism comes from fear and a limited knowledge of men's style as from confidence or a depth of understanding. That purple jacket above is really very restrained and is of a hue and has a tone and texture that I'd be very happy to wear without worrying too much. People who only look at it and see 'purple' are seeing in a very superficial way.

    That said, I agree with @unbelragazzo and @mktitsworth that this doesn't mean anyone should just rush off and commission a load of purple suits to start with.
     
    1 person likes this.
  11. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Well-Known Member

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    Everyone is different with how things wear. I find 14+ ounces to wear reasonable warm, such that in 50-65 degree weather I can comfortably wear it without an overcoat. Depending on climate, this means per your tailor that you will have an overcoat on as well. Weight is thus mostly relevant for the range of temperatures you can comfortably wear something without a coat (the top of which will of course be the warmest temperature you can wear the jacket in). You also have a lot of fabrics that offer tweed-like patterns but are not themselves tweed. Tweed fabrics tend to be heavier and rougher. I am sure there are other defining characteristics but those are the ones I tend to think of.
     
  12. ltontheqt

    ltontheqt Well-Known Member

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    One other question: What would you consider the border line for weight? If 14 ounces is right for tweed, where does one start to get into prohibitive territory? I can't imagine walking around with the 19-20 ounce weights. For an overcoat, sure. But not so much for a sport coat.
     
  13. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Well-Known Member

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    ^ I've gone up to 18 ounces. It's perfectly fine in winter and on any chilly fall or spring day where I live. I haven't tried heavier fabrics but I wouldn't have an issue going up to 20-21 if I found something I like.
     
  14. Grammaton Cleric

    Grammaton Cleric Well-Known Member

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    18oz. is perfectly fine for tweed. Most of my tweed coats are 16-18oz. I have one 22oz. coat, and that is uncomfortable in anything beyond the mid-50s.
     
  15. Parker

    Parker Well-Known Member

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    Barims also accessorizes with very specific, complementary things. It's not about throwing a wild colored jacket on top of CBD gray flannels, blue shirt and navy tie.
     
    Last edited: Sep 1, 2014
    4 people like this.
  16. Slickman

    Slickman Well-Known Member

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    i have a 24oz gamekeeper tweed from johnstons, it is insanely warm and meant for a nyc winter. 18oz should be fine, but remember that you're wearing it under a heavy 18-20oz overcoat, even a 13-14oz sport jacket will feel really warm.
     
  17. dfoverdx

    dfoverdx Well-Known Member

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    I think it really depends on fabric & color combination. Recently i saw some kind of purple in W Bill tweed and Schofield & Smith English wool collection, both are very interesting (not very bold, in any case not shiny and remains on traditional side) that i will buy a jacketing of both to keep at home.
     
    1 person likes this.
  18. tchoy

    tchoy Well-Known Member

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  19. ~ B ~

    ~ B ~ Well-Known Member

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  20. Concordia

    Concordia Well-Known Member

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