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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. Kuro

    Kuro Well-Known Member

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    nothing too british (e.g., Smiths, Lesser, etc.). TIA
     
    Last edited: Jun 19, 2014
  2. Slickman

    Slickman Well-Known Member

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    ^ Charmin Ultrasoft, they say good things. No, but seriously why not any british cloths, their mills are some of the best in the business if not the best. That being said, Caccioppoli's jacketing book is great, although they are not a mill.
     
    Last edited: Jun 19, 2014
  3. Grammaton Cleric

    Grammaton Cleric Well-Known Member

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    Del Fino is the pro pick.
     
  4. Kuro

    Kuro Well-Known Member

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    :rimshot: :) ^I know what is in their books and looking for something with a less britishy finish (if that makes sense). Open to Holland & Sherry however (e.g., is the H&S Ascot book worth a look?). TIA
     
    Last edited: Jun 19, 2014
  5. Slickman

    Slickman Well-Known Member

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    Lesser's Navy Hopsack in the 16oz book has a nice finish, and it hangs like steel. Well worth it IMO. If you want patterns, go with Caccioppoli's books, it's very italian, but good cloths with nice hand. I know a lot of people don't like it, but the worsted alsport book from minnis has a few gunclubs in there and a worsted finish so it's much smoother than a very hairy tweed from WBill for example.
     
  6. Kuro

    Kuro Well-Known Member

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  7. Despos

    Despos Well-Known Member

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    My go to jacketings for the last few years has been Loro Piana Proposte Giacche Collections. They are seasonal samples with a short run. 80% of the spring/summer 2014 cloths are sold out at present. They usually average 9 ounces and have several blend combinations and come in mill and clear finishes. The new Fall/Winter collection will be out soon. They also have a 9 once book called jacketing that is continuous stock. The cloth tailors very, very well. Patterns and colors are very wearable, easy to accessorize. Several of the patterns in the Jacketings book we have made 8 to 10 times because the patterns/colors were so good. They also have nice hopsacks in another book. Don't know the book name, sent it off with a client
     
    Last edited: Jun 19, 2014
    2 people like this.
  8. Despos

    Despos Well-Known Member

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    I'm done with tailors who over promise and under deliver. I could do better with a potato sack and twine!

    Done with RTW and brick and mortar stores where sales people try to sale me something that doesn't fit to clear out inventory.

    Will get me an Italian suit online, maybe from the "Norman Walks Alone" site and at deep discount at the end of the season!
     
    5 people like this.
  9. Kuro

    Kuro Well-Known Member

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    thanks again :cheers:
     
    Last edited: Jun 19, 2014
  10. archetypal_yuppie

    archetypal_yuppie Well-Known Member

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    You can get awesome deals on bespoke suits if you buy them used. Then laugh at all the idiots in RTW!
     
    2 people like this.
  11. Grammaton Cleric

    Grammaton Cleric Well-Known Member

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    Del Fino's giacche book is the furthest from the Brits in both designs and finishing.

    H&S' Dandy and SherryTweed are nice as well.
     
    Last edited: Jun 19, 2014
  12. p.henrik

    p.henrik Well-Known Member

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    You don't make your own tailored clothing, Despos?
     
  13. Despos

    Despos Well-Known Member

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    Yes, but only for 43 years.
     
    1 person likes this.
  14. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Well-Known Member

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    You're getting close to finishing your apprenticeship, right?
     
  15. Despos

    Despos Well-Known Member

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    You would think so. Then you have a day when you don't think you know anything and have lots to learn.
    Actually, just spent a few days in Milan and saw so many beautiful suits. Very inspirational. Milanese tailoring is not represented much if at all here. Really great styling and craftsmanship.
     
    2 people like this.
  16. tchoy

    tchoy Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    Sydney, Australia
    I have a 2.5 m length of London Lounge Cloth City Gun Club I am not going to make up, send me a Pm if anyone is interested.

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Credits London Lounge

    Thanks everyone the cloth is now sold.
     
    Last edited: Jun 20, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  17. hentaisan

    hentaisan Well-Known Member

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    Just wondering,

    Where's the best place to get quality merino yarn in Australia?

    Cheers,
     
  18. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Well-Known Member

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    Anybody know where I can purchase Fratelli Delfino fabric?
     
  19. AlexE

    AlexE Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    Munich, Germany
    I am looking for fabric options for a new suit, it should be a worsted wool three piece which would be used in the more formal / most formal business settings. Hence worn mainly during the day or early evening and should be good for most of the year in the temparate climate of central Europe (so covering outdoor temperatures ranging from 0 to 25 centigrade).

    Hence, the fabric texture should be sufficiently fine and the weight should not be too high or too flimsy (e.g. i already have a twill H&S Classic Worsteds, which I consider to be too roughly textured and too heavy for late spring/summer/ early fall). So generally I was thinking about a weight of 10 to 11 ounces and a fiber fineness of Super 100 to 120.

    Some fabric bunches which came to my mind are
    - Scabal Royal
    - Scabal Galaxy
    - Scabal Champion
    - Minnis Savile Row Classics / Savile Row III
    - Harrisons Premier Cru or Cru Classe

    Does anybody have experience with these fabrics and can provide some insight how they perform? Are there any other books to consider?
     
  20. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Well-Known Member

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    New York City
    

    I remember you telling me about this awesome Milanese jacket you saw some guy wearing that was super shapely, but it had absolutely no darts. I'd love to see some patterns of such a jacket.
     

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