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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Well-Known Member

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    Drapers 11oz. glen check suiting:

    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  2. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Well-Known Member

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    Add - that's a nice suit, though I would have the tailor temper the shoulders a bit.

    That tie is the ugliest thing I have ever seen.
     
  3. TheTukker

    TheTukker Well-Known Member

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    Not the ugliest I have ever seen, but it comes close.
     
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  4. naviC

    naviC Active Member

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    I am abit confused to how they are suitings because of how rough they look.... is it because of the microcheck that makes it a suiting cloth?
     
  5. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Well-Known Member

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    Hard to explain (it's a confluence of the pattern, weave, color etc.), but those are most certainly suitings.

    Like pornography, you know it when you see it.
     
  6. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Well-Known Member

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    Does it have some sort of windowpane over the glen check. Someonetimes it looks like a red overcheck sometimes not. Dont know if my eyes are playing tricks on me.
     
  7. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Well-Known Member

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  8. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Well-Known Member

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    While they look rough-ish that's really only on a closeup view under good light. And even then only compared to a perfectly smooth worsted. Compare a fresco to a genuine tweed, for example. And these are a little too heavy / biznaz-y for a summer sportscoat. Another dead giveaway is that you have a pinwidth / one thread wide pattern. Some tweeds have fairly thin checks-- Porter & Harding Hartwist for example-- [​IMG] [​IMG] But those tend to be in very tweedy colors. Finally, you're talking about the mosy businessy / suity possible colors.
     
    1 person likes this.
  9. CrimsonSox

    CrimsonSox Well-Known Member

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    The back of the jacket -- one of the hardest areas to tailor, and the part that RTW often misses -- is smooth and has a bespoke, sculpted shape. All you need is a soporific tie.
     
  10. naviC

    naviC Active Member

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    Thanks for that, I would need to have chat with my tailor to understand more about my cloth selections..
     
  11. gopherblue

    gopherblue Well-Known Member

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    I'm definitely interested in a jacket-length (is 2.5 meters enough for a 6'1", 44L fella?), assuming it is the same weight as the 518 and 520 frescos, and the color is closer to 518 than the Slewfoot tobacco (nothing against that beautiful fabric, but it is too light/too reddish for what I want).
     
  12. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Well-Known Member

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    Just commissioned a suit from the Drapers flannel book. Should be interesting how it turns out.

    [​IMG]
     
  13. mactire

    mactire Well-Known Member

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    BTW if you're interested in small runs of woollen cloth, Marling and Evans weave from 40m AFAIK. But if you've an agreement with Fox there's little point changing horses mid-race.



    All other things being equal you would expect to pay about 2x~3x for cloth woven from woollen-spun yarn i.e. tweed & flannel. This is down to a number of factors woollen spun yarn is made in smaller batches due to it being less popular, it is tricky to make, adding neps to yarn [like in a Donegal] is time-consuming as well. When it comes to weaving the looms must be run at much lower speeds than those weaving worsteds, i.e. 160~200 picks per minute compared to 400+ on modern looms weaving a worsted. More breaks means more mending etc.
     
    Last edited: Nov 12, 2013
    3 people like this.
  14. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Well-Known Member

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    If it's their 11oz. stuff, I fear for you.

    Regardless of the mill, I have had multiple lightweight flannels from Fox to Draper's perform poorly over time. I'm sticking with 14oz.+ flannels from here on out.
     
    2 people like this.
  15. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Well-Known Member

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    Can you elaborate a little further?

    Thanks
     
  16. Fishball

    Fishball Well-Known Member

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    My new found, Dormeuil Sportex

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
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  17. Simon A

    Simon A Member

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    Great find Fishball, what a riot of colour up close but so subtle from distance. A little like the old Reid and Taylor country twist suitings. I hope it makes up well for you.
     
  18. Fishball

    Fishball Well-Known Member

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    Yes, it look pretty nice from a distance. I bought 2 yd for a sportcoat. It cost less than USD90. Is the price good?:D
     
  19. add911_11

    add911_11 Well-Known Member

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    Well done master fishball!

    Is it new stock or old stock?
     
  20. aton

    aton Active Member

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    What a bargain! But cmt cost could be us$900 ? :D
     
    Last edited: Nov 13, 2013

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