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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. kolecho

    kolecho Well-Known Member

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    I always find lightweight patterned summer coat fabrics lack depth, especially if it is a worsted or finished smooth. Some patterned linens have very nice surface interest. Perhaps you can source some to compare. I have seen some Italian ones but don't know who made them.
     
  2. edmorel

    edmorel Well-Known Member

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  3. Journeyman

    Journeyman Well-Known Member

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    I think that Huddersfield cloth was on sale for GBP 20 per metre recently as one of their cloth offers (or "cloffers", as Huddersfield calls them). It would be worthwhile getting in touch with Huddersfield to ask if it's still on sale, if you're interested in it.
     
  4. emptym

    emptym Well-Known Member

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    Thanks guys. These have some surface interest. They're wool/silk/linen blends.
    Are you really recommending a British fabric over an Italian one? What is the world coming to? JK. Thanks, Ed. Those are nice. I think I've seen those before. Phat Guido had a really nice patterned summer sport coat: dark beige w/ off-white and blue checks. If anyone can find a pic of that, it'd be helpful. I think medtech had something similar made up by NSM. Found medtech's:
    He said it was an LP fabric.
     
    Last edited: Aug 4, 2013
  5. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Well-Known Member

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    Brisbane Moss 'oatmeal' linen suit fresh off the press.

    Trying to stand up straight and not totally succeeding after getting home at 4:30am from an awesome wedding.

    [​IMG]
     
    8 people like this.
  6. Burton

    Burton Well-Known Member

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    I like it.
     
  7. RogerC

    RogerC Well-Known Member

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    That looks like a nice suit, Slew, who made it and how is the fabric holding up?
     
  8. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Well-Known Member

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    Glad you approve! It's a MBT here in NY and the Brisbane Moss linen is fantastic. Very soft and dense enough to hold its shape, but still wear cool. I had this made with no lining in the sleeves and minimal padding / wadding and quarter lined in the back all for maximum coolness.
     
  9. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Well-Known Member

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    I really dig the single button cuff detail, Slew. Looks great.
     
    1 person likes this.
  10. obama

    obama Well-Known Member

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    I am looking for a good linen suiting that is more wrinkle resistant. For that reason, I will also consider linen silk mix but Shing surface is unpreferred. Anyone has good suggestion. Someone just posted te Brisbane Moss. Is it good? Is there better option out there?
     
  11. Manton

    Manton Well-Known Member

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    there is no such thing as wrinkle resistant linen. There are various blends with some linen in them that look a little lineny but that do wrinkle less. You need wool in the blend, though, not silk.

    I would look at drapers. I used to know of one such cloth that Logsdail loved but I forgot what it is. I think it was linen-cotton-wool or maybe linen-silk-wool, anyway, it was a blend of three fibers.
     
  12. terrorsquad

    terrorsquad Well-Known Member

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    Maybe Solbiati for linen?They do make some nice ones.
     
  13. poorsod

    poorsod Well-Known Member

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    The Hunt and Winterbotham linen has massive body for the weight.
     
  14. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Well-Known Member

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    Anyone have any familiarity with a cloth called Kerry Knoll? It's listed on the MyTailor website as a 55% wool / 45% linen blend. I'm thinking it could be perfect for a summer suit but not sure about quality / whether there are any issues with it.
     
  15. obama

    obama Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for all the advices. These serve as a good starting point for my search. To elaborate more, I am planning a project for a DB casual SC. Was initially eyeing on Fresco but it's solid feel still not casual enough for my like. I also looked ar some Harrisson Mirage, which is casual but looks too shiny.

     
  16. TRINI

    TRINI Well-Known Member

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    Gents, some advice requested on future commissions. I currently have the following made up:

    Spring/Summer:

    Fresco 516 SB 3 patch suit
    Fresco 520 DB 2 patch suit
    Fresco 511 SB suit
    Fresco 512 SB suit
    Brown Wool-Linen gunclub SB 3 patch sportcoat
    Navy wool-cash hopsack 3 patch blazer


    Fall/Winter

    Navy herringbone SB worsted (approx 11-13oz) suit
    Charcoal flannel SB suit
    AFB Minnis Flannel DB suit
    P&H Thornproof Navy Donegal SB 3 patch suit
    Brown Gunclub wool-cash SB 3 patch sportcoat


    I'd like to get a gray flannel DB suit next but after that - what else? I feel like I've pretty much covered off the basics. I'd like to get a tan herringbone suit for the summer in a wool/linen blend but I'm looking for suggestions/recommendations for other commissions.
     
  17. bertie

    bertie Well-Known Member

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    Some ideas:


    • Tobacco linen suit for summer.
    • Linen/silk/wool blend summer jacket in big POW (similar to LL Lee Marvin)
    • Mid-grey POW flannel suit for winter
    • Olive Donegal suit for winter

    Maybe also consider chalk-striped flannel if you think it fits your style?
     
  18. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Well-Known Member

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    Agree on the flannel PoW. Flannel windowpane would be a good idea too.

    If you need business suits, how about a birdseye?

    Also seems like you could do with a tweed SC. Are you sorted on odd trousers?
     
  19. zalb916

    zalb916 Well-Known Member

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    I was gonna say flannel POW as well. I just ordered one with Fox flannel. They have a few nice options.
     
    3 people like this.
  20. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Well-Known Member

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    Anyone have any thoughts on their favorite 14oz-ish navy chalk stripe woolen flannel? Thinking Minnis, but curious if there's something else I should see.
     

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