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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. dopey

    dopey Well-Known Member

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    Something I had never seen before, but which is quite cool, is cotton crepe. I recall there were several colors. I have no idea what to do with it, but it just seemed cool.

    I made three trips and while I wanted to stock up on staples, each time I went I kept going through the 36" Alumo piles. In all, I think I got 12 different lengths of that stuff. I did manage to get some Triplo (but too late for the white; it was there on my fist visit, gone by my second) and some other staple-type fabrics in high-quality weaves. But in my opinion, the 36" rolls are the real treasures.
     
    Last edited: Jun 3, 2013
  2. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Well-Known Member

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    Crepe was somewhat popular about 15 years ago.
     
  3. dopey

    dopey Well-Known Member

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    I got some in ecru, thinking I will maybe make a dinner shirt from it someday. Or else short sleeve.

    When it was popular (if such a thing was actually possible without styleforum), how was it typically used?
    I was only familiar with silk crepe for dinner shirts.
     
    Last edited: Jun 3, 2013
  4. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Well-Known Member

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    I remember Armani using a lot of wool crepe. Don't remember any cotton crepe though.
     
  5. dopey

    dopey Well-Known Member

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    Yep. he was famous for that.
    You should post photos of your Sember haul if you can. I keep meaning to photograph some of mine.
     
  6. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]
     
  7. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Well-Known Member

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  8. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Well-Known Member

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  9. dopey

    dopey Well-Known Member

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    I like most of those, but I REALLY like the brown check, and also the blue/white stripe below it.
    Is that <!!>CHAMBRAY<!!> in the middle photo?
     
    Last edited: Jun 3, 2013
  10. badsha

    badsha Well-Known Member

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    What is the brown check in the middle please? I know the top one is G&R.
     
  11. rayuela

    rayuela Well-Known Member

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    Thanks very much for the American Sember info, Shirtmaven. Nicole was very helpful.

    Pretty amazing selection of unusual stuff, I think.

    Here's a photo of my haul, which includes a lot of those Alumo 36" rolls, some TM including one Gold Line, and one piece of Testa:

    [​IMG]

    And here are some recent acquisitions from Tip-Top, including some Ariston Hopsack 50% Mohair, 50% Wool, some Windowpane Fresco, which I believe is Woodhouse, though there is nothing printed on the roll, and some linen for pants.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  12. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Well-Known Member

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    Nice choices, ray.

    Blue one in the middle is chambray, I think.

    Brown check is I think Alumo, but not positive.
     
  13. rayuela

    rayuela Well-Known Member

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    Thanks, that's right, unbelragazzo: Chambray-ish blue fabric is from Testa, I believe. I was also told by Nicole that one of the whites, I believe from TM, was chambray as well. I think the brown check might be TM Gold Line.
     
  14. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Well-Known Member

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    I meant the blue in my middle photo that dopey asked about. I don't think chambray can be white? I think it's by definition a colored warp with a white weft.
     
  15. poorsod

    poorsod Well-Known Member

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    MUST. RESIST. :drool:
     
  16. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Well-Known Member

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    Ray, I really like the look of that fresco.
     
  17. rayuela

    rayuela Well-Known Member

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    Oh right, sorry.

    I thought the same re: chambray when she said that. But perhaps I misunderstood her. I'll have to look at it more closely: perhaps there is a slightly different white wefted into it, which might make it chambray?
     
  18. tchoy

    tchoy Well-Known Member

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    Just received some light weight Fox flannel for trousers about 10oz/ 300g. I am quite impressed with the stuff.




    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 3, 2013
    1 person likes this.
  19. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Well-Known Member

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    tchoy,

    I've had a few suits made from the lightweight Fox flannels, and I frankly wouldn't recommend the cloth for odd trousers. Too flimsy, w/o much body, and prone to pilling. Fox makes a fantastic 16oz. mid-gtrey flannel (for the same price as the lighter stuff), which is much better suited for odd trousers.

    ET
     
    1 person likes this.
  20. skcheng

    skcheng Member

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    Carl mentioned American Sember and Nicole on a routine visit. Then he actually walked myself and a friend over to the 7th floor warehouse to peruse the fabrics available. I've since been there for 3 visits and I've purchased about 20 fabrics or so ranging from closeout 10/yd Alumo and G&R to $45 - $65 Triplo and Sea Island fabrics. I also picked up a few vintage fabrics. All great stuff!!

    I've also purchased some really nice Troca buttons in 14L, 16L and 18L sizes. Brown, grey and blue. No more white buttons as Carl mentioned......

    Some quick pics of the fabrics I selected. And I'll probably head out there one or two more times before Sember shuts down the current location.

    And for those not familiar with Cego, Carl makes a great shirt, dressy or casual. And he knows his craft which helps. At this point, my entire closet has been replaced with Cego shirts, and $125 is really reasonable imho for a CTM with whatever cut, collar design, pocket configuration, etc.....

    Pics:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.

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