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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Well-Known Member

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    Hey guys I don’t mean to change topics but is there is a difference in the fabric used in RTW/MTM vs Custom/Bespoke. I just commissioned 2 suits one being a Samuelsohn MTM (Zegna Fabric) and the other being Custom/Bespoke (H. Lesser). I am possibly interested in doing another custom commission in a sports jacket. I would like to copy the fabric in this S. Partonepea jacket. A large majority of the fabric selections from the British fabric producers are “como se dice” boring. Can you guys help me out.

    [​IMG]
     
  2. RogerC

    RogerC Well-Known Member

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    There is no necessary difference between cloth used in RTW, MTM or bespoke. I once tried on a Gieves and Hawkes suit made from PoW Fox Flannel that is otherwise a bespoke favourite. Fox produce for Cordings and Hackett. That said, most RTW manufacturers use cheaper fabric.
     
  3. add911_11

    add911_11 Well-Known Member

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    I have a suit in that, it is a very nice fabric.
     
  4. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Well-Known Member

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    Think Edmorel is your man for that sort of thing.
     
    1 person likes this.
  5. P-K-L

    P-K-L Well-Known Member

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    I have a suit made from the heavier brother (9426) - I can recommend it too!
     
  6. add911_11

    add911_11 Well-Known Member

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    English & Town Classic is also very trust worthy, if you like a minor quasi-flannel finish.
    I just can't believe how expensive is Dugdale fabrics now.
     
  7. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Well-Known Member

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    add911_11 - glad you like the fabric! How warm would you say it wears? Is it wearable in NY Summers expect for the hottest days when you just want to wear a tee-shirt?
     
  8. add911_11

    add911_11 Well-Known Member

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    I am a person who does not run hot.

    For Royal Classic, It can easily be a suit for October to the End of easter), add an overcoat for the cold and windy days in Hong Kong (November to December)

    For English Town Classic, it is a solid mid autumn to winter suiting in Hong Kong.

    For reference, it is sunny and windy in the typical English Spring weather, still I am wearing mid weight flannel (13-14oz) suiting.

    For your question, I guess as long as the weather is under 25 degrees C and not overly humid, I can wear a 12-13 oz all wool worsted or hopsack. Once past that, such as the Hong Kong summer at 30 degrees and humid, I can only wear fresco under the air conditioner.
     
  9. Testudo_Aubreii

    Testudo_Aubreii Well-Known Member

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  10. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Well-Known Member

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    NEW LIGHTWEIGHT FRESCO TYPE CLOTH AT LL ALERT!!!

    For purely selfish reasons combined with the fact that I'm a good guy, I am alerting you all to the new Piuma fabric over at London Lounge. It's basically like the 12/13oz Brisa, but 10/11oz. Could be the Ulimate Summer Fabric. It only took Michael two years to develop it from tests so I imagine it should be pretty damn nice. Orders can be placed now for light gray and navy blue. I'm doing both. Hopefully it'll close ASAP so a suit can be made by the end of Summer!

    Here's what Michael has to say about it: "The PIUMA is a very tightly woven 10-11 ozs 4 ply travel cloth that does not feel like a travel cloth. It has a rich full hand as compared to its competitors. And it has the same draping qualities and the extreme wrinkle resistance of its kin, the Brisa and Mistral. It is a remarkable combination of strengths. And we will be able to make in in a large variety of colors and patterns. It is the 10-11 ozs I have always hoped for."

    That is all.
     
    Last edited: Apr 29, 2013
  11. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Well-Known Member

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    ^ I was under the impression that the Piuma was more like 11 oz?
     
  12. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Well-Known Member

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    Correct! It's 10-11oz. Will edit my post and add Michael's thoughts on it.
     
  13. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Well-Known Member

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    Cool.

    Slew - did you order the original Brisa? I'm a bit curious to how that performed, as I remain sceptical of the supposed superiority (justifying the much higher price) of Piuma to Fresco / Finmeresco.
     
    Last edited: Apr 29, 2013
  14. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Well-Known Member

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    I have one suit made of Brisa and I really like it. The feel is more spongy than Fresco or Fimmeresco. This allows more give and comfort it seems. Fresco is super dy and crisp and Fimmeresco seems more like a traditional worsted. If the Piuma is just a lighter version of Brisa I'll be very happy.
     
    Last edited: Apr 29, 2013
  15. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Well-Known Member

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    Interesting, thanks. I may take another look at Piuma then.
     
  16. dopey

    dopey Well-Known Member

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    Same
     
  17. Slickman

    Slickman Well-Known Member

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    The piuma RAF POW seems to be much more blue than the brisa, I like the more grey shade of the brisa

    Piuma
    [​IMG]

    Brisa
    [​IMG]
     
  18. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Well-Known Member

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    ^ Alden mentioned that both pics are off, and the two fabrics are very similar.
     
  19. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Well-Known Member

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    Interesting stuff this Piuma.

    Not sure that the Finnmeresco feels like a traditional worsted though. At least the 4 ply 11-12 oz doesn't feel quite like that to me. Open weave, definitely not as coarse as Fresco, but it strikes me as being dissimilar from trad worsteds.
     
    Last edited: Apr 30, 2013
  20. Testudo_Aubreii

    Testudo_Aubreii Well-Known Member

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    Anyone know a cloth merchant (preferably online or happy to ship) who sells wool-linen suiting? Prefer 11oz and above. Thanks.
     

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