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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Well-Known Member

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    I'm uncharacteristically careful with shirts. Washed at home - warm, not hot water / air dry / hand pressed.

    Shirts I've worn 50 times only show wear at the edge of the cuffs.
     
  2. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Well-Known Member

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    Fwiw, I've washed my SG chambray shirt well over a dozen times and never had any issues. Love the cloth.
     
  3. P. Bateman

    P. Bateman Well-Known Member

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    Hello,

    Does anyone know where I can source pique cotton fabric, preferably in heather colors? For example:

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 5, 2013
  4. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Well-Known Member

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    I have this from Grandi & Rubinelli
    in a purple, like the one shown.
    grey
    navy
    burgundy.
    very nice fabric.
     
  5. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Well-Known Member

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    I guess Mike never learned much about fabric from his relatives. Both Chris of Chris-Arto(who passed many years ago) and Angelo of andros are in the textile business.

    a chambray is a weave. there are chambray voiles.... American Sember used to have a beautiful one. I think they still have a few odd shades left.

    I posted somewhere two swatches a chambray and a pinpoint and described the difference.

    I have never seen the S-G dress shirt chambray. I can not comment on construction or quality.
     
  6. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Well-Known Member

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    can you pm me his contact details / email?
     
  7. P. Bateman

    P. Bateman Well-Known Member

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    Excellent! I PM'd you.
     
  8. Axelman 17

    Axelman 17 Well-Known Member

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    Trying to decide on my next suit from Frank. Have five thus far:

    - grey woolen flannel 14oz (harrisons)
    - mid grey fresco 10/11oz (minnis)
    - navy birdseye 11/12oz (harrisons premier cru)
    - RAF plain blue 9/10oz (lesser)
    - navy herringbone 13oz (lesser)

    I am thinking about doing a blue linen and a khaki cotton suit for the summer but would like to get in one more before then. Probably something sub 11oz that is more office appropriate than the linen and the khaki cotton. Any thoughts? Was flirting with a POW maybe from minnis fresco or lesser tropical. How is the lesser tropical book? Any others worth thumbing through?
     
  9. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Well-Known Member

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    Axel,

    I think you need a mid-grey pick-and-pick - it'll look quite different than they grey fresco you have.

    If you'd like something patterned, go with a POW in a darker shade of grey. Save the linen / contton suits for your 10th, or even 15th, suit.

    ET
     
  10. Manton

    Manton Well-Known Member

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    Since I don't like birdseye, don't get the birdseye.

    Personally, I wear cotton and linen to the office in summer.
     
  11. Axelman 17

    Axelman 17 Well-Known Member

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    Unfortunately for Manton, the five that I listed have already been made, there is no turning back on the birdseye, I think it came out pretty nicely. :slayer:

    I guess I am looking for a suit that is slightly more versatile than the linen and cotton numbers. I am not sure I would feel comfortable wearing either of those in the spring for instance. Perhaps I am overthinking it though.

    Pick-and-pick may be a good route. I feel like if I go POW, I dont want it to be too dark or it wont be sufficiently spring/summer-y.
     
    Last edited: Jan 9, 2013
  12. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Well-Known Member

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    A lighter fresco - something like a striped 8/9 oz
    Or something from Harrison's Cape Kid - light and a little spring/summery but completely fine for most office uses, even in conservative ones.
     
  13. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Well-Known Member

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    Oh, gotcha - didn't realize you were looking for spring / summer fabrics in particular. I'm a fan of Mohair - the better ones available are not scratchy / shiny, and look quite nice. Mohair works well in mid / AF blues and light browns.

    The Lesser Super Tropical is a good book, but I would suggest ordering something half-lined from the Smith Excel collection (9-10oz.).
     
  14. Axelman 17

    Axelman 17 Well-Known Member

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    Extremely helpful, thank you. Will peruse the options and share some possibilities.
     
  15. poorsod

    poorsod Well-Known Member

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    Personally, I think POW is best as a flannel rather than as a worsted.


    What's wrong with birdeye? You seem to like nailhead.
     
  16. sprout2

    sprout2 Well-Known Member

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    It seems I am not the only one thinking about a source for polo shirt material.

    Does anyone have a source for a jersey knit cloth in a cotton/linen blend? Piqué is nice, but the former is so breathable and light.
    Carl, anyone?

    Thanks.
     
  17. RogerC

    RogerC Well-Known Member

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    The Lesser Tropical book is very,very good. I have two suits in it, which are my favourite. Now, I don't know how conservative your office is, but there's an RAF houndstooth and a caramel PoW in there that I like a lot.
     
  18. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Well-Known Member

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    Wait, do you get your tailor to make the polo shirt material up into a polo-shirt? That question sounds stupid, but I never explored the possibility of getting anything other than coats, trousers and shirts made up at the tailor. Didn't see a need to bespeak polo-shirts.
     
    Last edited: Jan 10, 2013
  19. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Well-Known Member

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    Another vote for mohair. It would work well because you look exactly like a mohair goat anyway.
     
  20. Axelman 17

    Axelman 17 Well-Known Member

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    Precisely. Any mohair books that folks like? I want to make sure Frank has them in Manhattan.
     

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