Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[kolecho]



A quick question on cloth buying - do you find it saves money to buy cloth yourself and then take it to a tailor, or does your tailor generally buy at lower prices?
I would like to get a couple of things made in Autumn and at the best price possible.

It all depends on how much your tailor charges for CMT and what you pay for the cloths.

 

[TRINI]



Lot of people seem to think this is now a B&S thread

Nothing wrong with that as you'll at least target the people who are actually interested in buying cloth...

 

[edmorel]

so it'll be 97 degrees in NYC tomorrow, great time to start to think about some denim cashmere!

 

[Eustace Tilley]

Nothing wrong with that as you'll at least target the people who are actually interested in buying cloth...

Well, I disagree. The best threads on this board often go into freefall when members simply don't follow the rules. In my mind, this thread is not meant for displaying 2"x3" swatches of cloth you want to offload.

 

[TRINI]



Well, I disagree. The best threads on this board often go into freefall when members simply don't follow the rules. In my mind, this thread is not meant for displaying 2"x3" swatches of cloth you want to offload.

Agree to disagree but given the number of members who actually contribute to this thread, the chances of it going into freefall because of some members wanting to offload their lengths is minimal.

 

[coolpapa]



Nothing wrong with that as you'll at least target the people who are actually interested in buying cloth...

+1. This is the better place to sell and buy cloth. Cloth sale threads get lost very quickly on the B/S board.

 

[apropos]

I would be more concerned about ugly cloth being posted, TBH.

 

[TheDarkKnight]



Depends on the cloth and on the tailor. Generally, it will be less expensive if the tailor orders the cloth. They don't pay VAT, and usually have a running account with the cloth merchant, meaning that they enjoy discounts as they're larger customers. In other words, for most easily available/standard suiting and jacketing cloth, it doesn't make sense to go CMT.
However, if you are looking for something specific from a merchant your tailor doesn't carry, or you have a length of vintage/special fabric (eBay's often good for this), CMT is your only option. Also, crowd-sourced initiatives like the London Lounge Cloth Club and our own special brown Fresco require CMT.
Last thing: don't be fixated on the best price possible. You also want quality, but perhaps most importantly, if you're trickling into the bespoke fold, you'll need to develop a relationship of mutual respect with your tailor. If he doesn't feel respect for his craft, it'll show in the workmanship.

Great post, thank you !

 

[terrorsquad]

Well, I disagree. The best threads on this board often go into freefall when members simply don't follow the rules. In my mind, this thread is not meant for displaying 2"x3" swatches of cloth you want to offload.

Well, I apologise if this is against the rules. Just wanted to share some extremely good cloth as I know there are a lot of fans of the Carlo Barbera for H.Lesser stuff. At least I know the contributors of this thread will appreciate it.

And swatches are more easy to display. Not very practical to show all 40 meters for each design

 

[Mark Seitelman]



A quick question on cloth buying - do you find it saves money to buy cloth yourself and then take it to a tailor, or does your tailor generally buy at lower prices?
I would like to get a couple of things made in Autumn and at the best price possible.

The cost savings are not great against:

1. the extra time spent buying the cloth in a cloth shop (figure a half a day); and
2. trial and error.

It's a bit chancey buying cloth over the internet. You may get stuck with some which you would have passed-on if you saw and handled it in a cloth shop.

Also, in a tailor's shop you can compare the color, texture, weight, and hand of varous cloth samples. If you want "navy", you should have many choices. You cannot do this on eBay.

When you buy "end bolts" in a cloth store you take the chance of there being an imperfection which you might not be able to discern. You have to carefully inspect the goods.

I would recommend cloth shopping only to the hobbyist. Shopping in a cloth store, such as Tip Top, can be enjoyable if you like to rumage and see different cloths. Many of the cloths may no longer be in production or be readily available at the tailor. Tip Top gets end bolts, and often it is first quality cloth. Also, you can view and handle full lengths as compared to a 3 by 4 swatch in a book.

I have found that there is no real cost savings buying at an end bolt store. My tailors give me a good deal on cloths out of the regular inventory, such as Holland & Sherry and Loro Piana.

Good luck.

 

[patrickBOOTH]

Spoiler

so it'll be 97 degrees in NYC tomorrow, great time to start to think about some denim cashmere!

I would like to make a suit out of that stuff.

 

[P-K-L]

Sportcoat material from hfwltd.

8½oz–9oz (240g–250g)
Beige
Gun Club Check

 

[Eustace Tilley]

^ Nice - is that from the Riviera book?

 

[forex]



Sportcoat material from hfwltd.
8½oz–9oz (240g–250g)
Beige
Gun Club Check

I think I have this same one currently being made up, it is more yellow in real life. Very soft fabric, from Riviera bunch.

 

[P-K-L]



^ Nice - is that from the Riviera book?

I think I have this same one currently being made up, it is more yellow in real life. Very soft fabric, from Riviera bunch.

Yes gentlemen, you are right, it is from the Riviera bunch.

Several meters are left for a nice price: http://www.hfwltd.com/bobb.php?b=dsc&c=4&p=1