1. Welcome to the new Styleforum!

    We hope you’re as excited as we are to hang out in the new place. There are more new features that we’ll announce in the near future, but for now we hope you’ll enjoy the new site.

    We are currently fine-tuning the forum for your browsing pleasure, so bear with any lingering dust as we work to make Styleforum even more awesome than it was.

    Oh, and don’t forget to head over to the Styleforum Journal, because we’re giving away two pairs of Carmina shoes to celebrate our move!

    Please address any questions about using the new forum to support@styleforum.net

    Cheers,

    The Styleforum Team

    Dismiss Notice

Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. Grammaton Cleric

    Grammaton Cleric Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,813
    Joined:
    Dec 17, 2007
    Location:
    Hong Kong / Darien
    

    GY would be an appealing option, but he refuses to do fittings for his US customers. Bummer.
     
  2. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,320
    Joined:
    Feb 15, 2010
    Location:
    London
    

    Is it realistic? They manage to get it right on their first try?
     
  3. Grammaton Cleric

    Grammaton Cleric Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,813
    Joined:
    Dec 17, 2007
    Location:
    Hong Kong / Darien
    

    It's probably a system that works for some, and doesn't for others. I'm a particularly tough fit, and can't imagine working w/o fittings.
     
  4. add911_11

    add911_11 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,994
    Joined:
    Jun 3, 2010
    

    No way, even if they can they can't charge their bespoke usual price.
     
  5. zalb916

    zalb916 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,623
    Joined:
    Dec 26, 2006
    

    I've been pleased with the fit from Yao without fittings. I've sent things back for some minor tweaks that I noticed on my own. I've brought completed coats to subsequent visits, and he has noted adjustments that should be made.

    I suppose the fit could be marginally better with fittings, but the lack of fittings don't bother me. Plus, I enjoy the benefit of my clothes being completed more quickly. I understand that this method is not for everybody, but I think it's a method that Yao does a very good job at.
     
  6. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,741
    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2006
    Location:
    London
    

    I visited GY when he was in NY and just didn't like the styling - a very firm, padded shoulder. Honestly it looked like a lot of NY drycleaner "bespoke"



    I can't figure out their effective CMT cost but they can. They pay a cloth bill and know what trimmings cost.

    I think someone really made such a big deal about his cloth that they just find it easier to say no to everyone.

    I suppose we could promise them X orders if they'll do CMT but business appears to be brisk as it is so I'm not sure they'd want to bother.
     
  7. forex

    forex Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,595
    Joined:
    Apr 15, 2008
    Why so insistent on using Chan? I haven't seen any of their garments but have never seen anything I liked from them. There are plenty other tailors that will use customers cloth.
     
  8. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    8,355
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2011
    Location:
    Washington, DC
    

    :brick:
     
  9. add911_11

    add911_11 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,994
    Joined:
    Jun 3, 2010
    

    I totally concurred
     
  10. zalb916

    zalb916 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,623
    Joined:
    Dec 26, 2006
    

    I respectfully disagree with your opinion of Yao. I know some people believe that the lack of fittings means its not real bespoke, which you seem to be implying about Yao. You're certainly entitled to your opinion on that matter. As for producing "drycleaner 'bespoke,'" Yao's affiliate thread shows a number of coats, none of which I believe look like they were made by a drycleaner:
    http://www.styleforum.net/t/234481/gordon-yao-bespoke-tailors-official-affiliate-thread/0_20

    You will also find in that thread that, like many other tailors, Yao makes jackets in a variety of styles, including a soft, unpadded shoulder. Here's an example:
    http://www.styleforum.net/t/234481/...official-affiliate-thread/140_20#post_4900358

    Enough about Yao for this thread.
     
  11. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,741
    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2006
    Location:
    London
    That looks much better than what I saw.

    Number of fittings wasn't what I was criticizing; it was the styling - very generously padded shoulder, firm coat with not much shape. The should on that coat isn't just more to my liking, it's indicative of a higher level of skill than what was on display a few years ago.
     
  12. tchoy

    tchoy Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,467
    Joined:
    Sep 16, 2004
    Location:
    Sydney, Australia
    That suit coat with the spalla camicia style shoulders belongs to follow member incontro, I've seen the suit in real life and it has no padding whatsoever and the fit is pretty good. With GY you just have to tell him what you want otherwise it will goes to his default style.

    Here is one of mine in London Lounge Tweed that has very minimal padding.

    [​IMG]
     
  13. forex

    forex Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,595
    Joined:
    Apr 15, 2008
    tchoy, that jacket makes your hips look wider than your shoulders. Not a very flattering look.
     
    1 person likes this.
  14. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,741
    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2006
    Location:
    London
    Yea... that's not the best example. :confused:
     
    Last edited: Nov 14, 2012
  15. whnay.

    whnay. Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    9,420
    Joined:
    Jan 7, 2005
    Location:
    Atlanta, GA
    Oh c'mon guys, that's not bad. A tad boring but not horrible tailoring.
     
    2 people like this.
  16. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,320
    Joined:
    Feb 15, 2010
    Location:
    London
    Though he's wearing jeans with feet wide apart. That might contribute to the flare at the hips, but what do I know.
     
  17. tchoy

    tchoy Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,467
    Joined:
    Sep 16, 2004
    Location:
    Sydney, Australia
    The hip flaring is partly due to the thickness of the jeans and my stance, also I also received the jacket with no fittings and the waist do need to be let out slightly.
     
  18. TheTukker

    TheTukker Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,510
    Joined:
    Aug 17, 2007
    

    +1: must be due to the picture.
     
  19. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,320
    Joined:
    Feb 15, 2010
    Location:
    London
    I'm not convinced that the waist needs to be let out to correct any putative flare at the hips. It isn't an exceptionally shaped garment, and letting out the waist will result in it becoming a sack coat. I think, though, that if you have wide hips, a bit more drape/swell at the chest would be better.
     
  20. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,741
    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2006
    Location:
    London
    The shoulders are too narrow - you can see where the arm protrudes about an inch down from the shoulder seam. The hips aren't cut narrow enough as you can see from the excess fabric on the left hand side of the photo.

    The waist looks good - no pulling around the button.

    The stance and the jeans are slight distortions. If the shoulders and hips were corrected, I think it would look fine.
     
    Last edited: Nov 14, 2012

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by