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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Well-Known Member

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    Navy Linen airy hopsack <3
     
  2. Hifilover

    Hifilover Well-Known Member

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    Why is such big price difference between Dugdale NFW trouser and Fresco trouser ?
     
  3. LuxireStudio

    LuxireStudio Well-Known Member

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    Attached another image to show some more details. White paper inserted below swatch for shade uniformity.

    [​IMG]
     
    3 people like this.
  4. OxfordDon

    OxfordDon Well-Known Member

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    London
    DWW "summer tweed" on an amazing Spring day in London

    [​IMG]
     
    7 people like this.
  5. Winot

    Winot Well-Known Member

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    Just lovely. Had the first fitting of mine with Elia Caliendo at the end of March. Who made yours up?
     
  6. OxfordDon

    OxfordDon Well-Known Member

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    I don't move in such exalted circles [​IMG]. I work with a Thai family that trade as "Marzotto Tailor." Not one of the famous names, but been working with them for 18 years so they've had a chance to dial in my fit.

    Fabric is a bit hard to photograph on my dinky iPhone. The variations in color/texture really gives it fits so shots don't do it justice.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    12 people like this.
  7. edmorel

    edmorel Well-Known Member

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    Some more Yakitty Yak


    [​IMG]
     
    5 people like this.
  8. seferphier

    seferphier Well-Known Member

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    looks great!
     
  9. LuxireStudio

    LuxireStudio Well-Known Member

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    Quote:
    I would say that it is similar to the Smith in almost all aspects except for the minor difference in thickness. Weave, transparency and feel are very similar.

    Will post some images tomorrow. Playing with light and background to allow visual comparison of the weave and transparency of all 4.
     
  10. brax

    brax Well-Known Member

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    I always found Manton's review of summer fabrics to be spot on. As you can tell, he is not a big fan of the Crispaire as it is neither fish nor fowl. Here it is again:

    MANTON:
    I would break this down into categories.

    1) Hard finish tropical worsteds. These are standard suit cloths, just in light weights. They will not look all that different from other, polished worsteds. The best books are Lesser Tropical, Minnis Rangoon (selling out fast) and Smith Gilt Twist. Rangoon is mostly gone, but you can still get the the glen plaids, which I think are great.

    2) Fresco. I like Minnis a lot, and prefer the 9/10 to the 8/9, but cannot wear the former in blazing heat. Woodhouse fresco has a 240 g range which I think is better than Minnis 8/9, but may be hard to get. Matt says that Rubinacci bought all the remaining stock when the firm folded, so you might want to try that. Crispaire is too polished for me. I like my frescos to be fresco and my tropicals to be polished like that.

    3) Mohair blends. Not sure what to recommend, I sourced all mine myself. Harrison Cape Kid is good but extremely expensive.

    4) Linen. So many good options.

    5) Dupioni silk. Draper's has a great, if small, range. Probably too hot for a real scorcher but it looks neat.

    6) Cotton. Foolish to get a bespoke suit from this, perhaps, but to me nothing wears cooler than a superlightweight cotton. Lousy performer. In Atlanta, shouldn't seersucker be part of the landscape?

    7) Jacketings. These mostly suck. The two decent books are Hardy Riviera and Carlo Barbera for Lesser lambswool. The latter is hard to get and running out. I know A&S has some. Another option I like is silk-wool, but I know of nothing decent in this category today. The nice ones are slubby but not shiney, whereas all the ones out there today shine like mirrors.

    Just stay with light colors. Light gray, tan, cream, pale olive (cotton or linen only), blue lighter than navy.
     
    Last edited: Apr 11, 2017
    1 person likes this.
  11. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Well-Known Member

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    Speaking of cotton, got my order from Brisbane Moss today-

    Navy cotton twill
    [​IMG]

    Swatches here -
    [​IMG]

    '12 Dark Navy'
    Cotton twill
    290g/m2
     
    Last edited: Apr 11, 2017
    2 people like this.
  12. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Well-Known Member

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    Pants?
     
  13. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Well-Known Member

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    Was thinking about a casual summer unstructured SC.

    I did get some of their 'stretch' cotton (97% Cotton, 3% Lycra) in the same shade as well.
     
  14. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Well-Known Member

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    Can anyone point me in the right direction for cloth?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  15. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Well-Known Member

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    H&S has some like that in their cotton book
     
  16. Concordia

    Concordia Well-Known Member

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    If you want very casual, Murray's on Nantucket is now selling their Breton red by the yard.
     
  17. LuxireStudio

    LuxireStudio Well-Known Member

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    Image as promised. View the large image here for a good comparison.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 12, 2017
    4 people like this.
  18. aristoi bcn

    aristoi bcn Well-Known Member

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    Barcelona
    Very useful.

    I'm expecting to arrive a suit length of their Shakespeare 215g cotton drill to be made into a unstructured neapolitan suit. Ridiculously cheap cloth. I was looking for something heavier but the moss colour is only made in this weight. Do you think it will stand up well?

    [​IMG]
     
  19. Concordia

    Concordia Well-Known Member

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    To expand the chatter on summer fabrics-- yesterday it went close to 90, so I fished out a few lighter-weight suits. In one bag, I had two glen checks-- one was a PIUMA from LL, and the other was a Somerset worsted from Fox. What a difference! In spite of having been worn a few times before being put away, the LL was more or less free of wrinkles. PIUMA I would say is sort of a luxury version of Crispaire. It looks like a standard (good) tropical, but has much of the resilience of Fresco and its relatives. The Fox, although having received a magnificent cleaning and pressing by Rave last fall, had creases and rumples. Not quite in linen country, but moving in that direction. Maybe more like woolen flannel, but without the weight and softness to have the wrinkles remove themselves on a hanger. That fabric is incredibly comfortable, and has a great pattern, but is not what you want to wear if you need to look crisp and shiny.
     
    Last edited: Apr 12, 2017
    3 people like this.
  20. sprout2

    sprout2 Well-Known Member

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    Ordered some Finmeresco, mohair, high twist Fintex, and other goodies.

    Honestly this battle of finding the ultimate high twist or tropical material is a war of diminishing returns. You need mohair all day if you really want porosity.
     
    2 people like this.

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