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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. sprout2

    sprout2 Well-Known Member

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  2. greger

    greger Well-Known Member

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    The pants and the vest color is to much and doesn't go with the white shirt. Vest would be better as a light blue.

    The coat very nice.
     
    1 person likes this.
  3. bamboo

    bamboo Well-Known Member

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    30% Mohair
    0576
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    Fresco III
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    30% Mohair Fresco
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    If you go for more textured jacket only fabric, Mockleno is quite interesting. Normal Fresco (both in II and III) has more coarse feeling than Fresco Lite.
    I think you should touch the fabric if possible cut length and go for what you like most. Among those Mockleno and Bamboo are jacketing and others are suiting, but I think navy Fresco can work as a separate jacket. I actually wear navy Fresco as a separate jacket, but I have to admit I am not a dapper.
     
  4. Hifilover

    Hifilover Well-Known Member

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    Do you think Mock Leno is good for a blazer suit ?
     
  5. bamboo

    bamboo Well-Known Member

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    Do you think Mock Leno is good for a blazer suit ?

    In short, my subjective judgement is no. I may be wrong, but I would not risk my own money to try.
     
  6. Hifilover

    Hifilover Well-Known Member

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    Thank you , i agree .

    Can you give more your opinion about Fresco Lite ? I feel it harder and more wrinkle resistance than Rangoon but not near to Fresco 2 ply .
     
  7. SimonC

    SimonC Well-Known Member

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    I am laughing at the concept that the 'technology wasn't there'. Whilst there have undeniably been some advances in yarn techology in the past decade or two, I would suggest that we've lost more weaving technology than we have gained over that period, due to the consolidation in the industry, retirement of those with the knowledge and also loss of the machinery they used to use.

    Rangoon is still available from Minnis on a special order basis, but to my mind it's one of the finer tropical wools made. I am also a fan of Fresco, but Rangoon is more refined and has that special combination of drape and relative summer comfort.
     
    2 people like this.
  8. SimonC

    SimonC Well-Known Member

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    Rangoon, I agree. Fresco, particularly in the heavier weights, can work well as a sportcoat in my experience. I have an SB Fresco sportcoat, quarter lined with smoked MoP buttons and it's great for travel.
     
    2 people like this.
  9. ATWright

    ATWright Member

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    This is just my opinion, though I don't have any stake in the matter. It would certainly explain why there wasn't enough demand for it to stay in production. However, I would be interested to try it out, and will buy one of the lengths you're selling. What colours do you have left?
     
  10. Alan Bee

    Alan Bee Well-Known Member

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    So Gentlemen,

    Here's what we've come up with for the CBD suit wardrobe. Based on what i currently own, I calculated this would effectively round off my wardrobe for a good while and I can focus on some other project :)

    I decided to build the core of the CBD wardrobe around a fleet of 13oz worsted and 13oz Finmeresco (Fresco). I reckon I already have enough suits in the 10/11oz range and sub 10oz range. I am aiming through this exercise to fill out the mid-end while adding a couple of summer and winter specific suits.

    This strategy will be gradually executed and implemented over a period. I would really appreciate very open and constructive criticism of the choices. Mainly, my aim is to ensure the choices are balanced within this weight category.

    Core Workhorse Group. I am on the fence regarding the Marine Blue Birdseye (Smith Woolens Botany)

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    Summer Specific Frescos

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    Winter specific Flannels

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    Still undecided about picking one of the 3 mid-grays (Sharksins?)

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    And finally, I'd like to choose either the Navy or Charcoal made into a Formal dress Coat and the Brown as less dressy Polo Coat.

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    Thank you gentlemen

    Alan Bee
     
  11. fraist

    fraist New Member

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    Gentlemen,
    I've recently stumbled upon an online seller whose inventory includes a reid & taylor 100% pure escorial fabric, it has a weight of 270gram/meter and I was wondering if it will be suitable for tropical southeast asian countries such as Indonesia, Malaysia,etc.
    And any experiences with said fabric?is escorial only hype or does it actually have substance?
     
  12. Concordia

    Concordia Well-Known Member

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    All decent stuff. 4-ply Finmeresco isn't quite Dead of Summer fabric-- more of a warm spring day sort of thing. But it has its value. Look also at the 10oz Fresco in the same general bracket.

    For overcoats, navy is dressier than the grey you've chosen, but both have their place.

    On the core assignment, it appears that you favor very dark patterns. Nothing wrong with that, but there are also some charcoals (not Oxford grey dark), maybe herringbones, that could be useful. But you will know best where/when you'll wear them and what will be the appropriate shade.

    As for the books chosen, all very classic. Lesser is maybe the firmest and driest of all, and Botany is a hair lighter than the others. Oyster is the same weight as Lesser 13, but a hair beefier in texture. Nice, old-fashioned stuff.
     
  13. ATWright

    ATWright Member

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    Escorial itself is a great cloth, but I find it best in a heavier jacket setting. At the weight you're describing, and based on the seller I think you're using, I would assume you're looking at suiting. More suitable for hotter climes, but nowhere near ideal. Also, I've not been terribly impressed with the escorial suit I have. Not the right cloth for trousers.
     
  14. scatterbrain

    scatterbrain Well-Known Member

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    @flvinny521, I have a cut of navy Rangoon in downtown Toronto that is waiting to be funded. I got it in @kolecho's most recent run. I can meet to show you it if you want to see it in person.

    It looks fantastic! But is not as textured as I would like for a sport coat. I'm having hopsack from @Edmorel made up by Spier and Mackay as we speak,as well as grey fresco that I brought to them. So, yes, they do cmt. The navy suit I posted in their thread was also navy flannel from Ed.
     
    Last edited: Mar 20, 2017
    1 person likes this.
  15. flvinny521

    flvinny521 Well-Known Member

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    Very helpful, thanks for sharing. This is my first MTM from then, so since the recommendations seem to be heading back towards hopsack, I'm going to just try the one they already stock and see how it goes. Just waiting for confirmation that they have enough.
     
  16. ATWright

    ATWright Member

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    Does anyone have photos of the brown fresco in the new book, or even something made up? I looked at it briefly over the weekend, and quite like it's mottling, but it doesn't seem to have the vigour that comes from tobacco fresco's red undertones.
     
  17. wigglr

    wigglr Well-Known Member

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    Would be interested as well!
     
  18. sprout2

    sprout2 Well-Known Member

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    Is being unable to use discretion to make final decisions for oneself a new meme?
    Seems like the last 30 posts are about "I've narrowed it down to 30 pieces of fabric, please look at all of them and tell me which are bad," even after already getting 100 recommendations that included consideration for weather, climate, building conditions, and even travel schedule.

    Format should be: "Is XXX S140s good for mid winter? Yes? OK, thanks, ordered."
    Not "Plz teach me how to order 10 basic suits."


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    5 people like this.
  19. Alan Bee

    Alan Bee Well-Known Member

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    Thank you Concordia. All well noted.

    Indeed, I'm very partial to dark colors (blues/grays) and generally avoid patterns with the possible exception of subtle self herringbones and glen-checks. I work in a fairly conservative industry.

    Thank you again

    Alan Bee
     
  20. Alan Bee

    Alan Bee Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Sep 26, 2007
    

    Dear Sprout,

    If you're honest, you'd admit that most of us on Styleforum are obsessive when it comes to clothes. Make that "double obsessive" for those on this bespoke unfunded liability thread. I doubt the average man can justify the expense of even "one" bespoke suit. But then again, I consider neither yourself nor myself average and thats why our paths have crossed on this sub-Forum.

    So please indulge my obsession if you can by providing some constructive critique as Concordia has done above in his response. And if you find my preening distasteful, just ignore my posts/questions as many surely have.

    Regards

    Alan Bee
     
    5 people like this.

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