1. Welcome to the new Styleforum!

    We hope you’re as excited as we are to hang out in the new place. There are more new features that we’ll announce in the near future, but for now we hope you’ll enjoy the new site.

    We are currently fine-tuning the forum for your browsing pleasure, so bear with any lingering dust as we work to make Styleforum even more awesome than it was.

    Oh, and don’t forget to head over to the Styleforum Journal, because we’re giving away two pairs of Carmina shoes to celebrate our move!

    Please address any questions about using the new forum to support@styleforum.net

    Cheers,

    The Styleforum Team

    Dismiss Notice

UNCOMFORTABLE SHOULDER? forward shoulders

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by a tailor, Sep 2, 2012.

Tags:
  1. a tailor

    a tailor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,852
    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2006
    Location:
    chicago suburbs
    Hi OPG

    Sorry but I only check old threads every 3 or 4 months.
    Yes they mistook your instructions let them know that. Can you send it back and ask them to straighten the shoulder as much as possible. Or if you are a long time customer try to get them to cut you a new jacket with a straighter shoulder than your previous jacket not this problem one. Or let them do it at their default amount.

    Alex
     
    Last edited: Feb 23, 2015
  2. a tailor

    a tailor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,852
    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2006
    Location:
    chicago suburbs
    hi Oldprepyguy
    Crazy , but this morning I awoke thinking about your problem.
    It seems as though Despos predicted it would happen to someone back in sept 2nd 2012.
    Scroll back up to post #6. You will see what I mean.

    Has the maker done anything to help you?
    another thought. You said they "crooked the shoulder" and that was their term. So advise them that they must straighten the shoulder. but they must use the previous suit to start with, not the present one that they did incorrectly.
    Look at the suit that you wish them to start with , there is a label in an inside pocket with a order number go with that.
     
    Last edited: Feb 23, 2015
  3. Gauss17

    Gauss17 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,297
    Joined:
    Nov 3, 2010
    I am wondering if I have forward shoulders now after reading through this thread. I seldom feel like I have enough mobility in many of my jackets. Specifically mobility is limited when driving or making a "hugging motion". This problem is solved by sizing up normally, but occasionally it makes the shoulders a bit too big. What I mean by this is that mobility is good, but the shoulder seam does not always fall where is should on the shoulder. My tailor (who I believe is fairly competent) always takes my jackets out below the collar because he says I have wider shoulders and my scapula are a bit more pronounced than he normally sees.

    From your perspective, do I more likely have forward shoulders or is my tailor correct?
     
  4. a tailor

    a tailor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,852
    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2006
    Location:
    chicago suburbs
    Gauss17

    From the description it may be, but then it may not be a fore ward shoulder.
    Print the diagram and see if he thinks it would help.

    If you are hugging something nice, then you should not be wearing your jacket.
     
    Last edited: Oct 10, 2015
  5. Asinus Aureus

    Asinus Aureus New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Joined:
    Dec 16, 2015
    ... reviving the thread...

    I would appreciate the tailors' advice. I have just had delivered a couple of bespoke jackets which I think may have this problem. There is certainly a twisting in the shoulder. The blue herringbone jacket is very soft, lightly canvassed and (I think) without any horsehair. Nothing in the shoulder at all. I had asked for it that way, and to be cut a bit large to wear loose with sweaters. However, the tailor also made the grey flannel suit in the same way, which I wasn't expecting. I don't mind; but they both have this shoulder problem, and previous commissions had not had it. I want to take them back to him for adjustment, but I just want to make sure that this a problem of a forward shoulder first - it certainly improves if I hold my shoulders back. Also, I think it may be worsened by an over-extension of the left shoulder of the jacket. It is definitely worse on that side. Diagnosis? And what's the prognosis? Would adding in a small amount of domette or horsehair improve it too? Suggestions please! Thanks in advance.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  6. a tailor

    a tailor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,852
    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2006
    Location:
    chicago suburbs
    Hello A A

    Try the horse hair cloth if you wish. Its the cheaper method, but with the less possible success.
    If it does not work it can be removed without damage. but you pay for both the doing and then the undoing.

    TO do the major alteration, you must have at least 3/4 of an inch of cloth available beneath the collar.
    Thats right there at the curve of the gorge,and up to the shoulder seam line.The measure is along the
    shoulder seam line.
    . Your tailor will need to break a few stitches to peek inside.
     
    Last edited: Sep 9, 2016
  7. Asinus Aureus

    Asinus Aureus New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Joined:
    Dec 16, 2015
    Thank you. So from the photo you can definitely tell this is a problem of a forward shoulder?

    Yes, there is enough cloth left in there to do it. I will discuss it with the tailor and see how it goes. Also, would this alteration affect the balance of the jacket, and the buttoning?
     
    Last edited: Dec 17, 2015
  8. a tailor

    a tailor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,852
    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2006
    Location:
    chicago suburbs
    hi AA

    Remember that cloth allowance is measured at the top of the gorge along the shoulder seam line.
    Also the the cloth that sticks out as that triangle gets cut off.
     
    Last edited: Aug 18, 2016
  9. simplesimple

    simplesimple Member

    Messages:
    7
    Joined:
    Feb 6, 2016
    Resuscitating an old thread!

    Is the original post what I should be considering asking a tailor for, if my shoulders carry forward / rounded, and jackets tend to feel tight on the nape of my neck?

    Sorry, I can't post a photo...
     
  10. Despos

    Despos Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,102
    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2006
    Feeling pressure at the nape of your neck is something else. You would feel pressure against the tip of your shoulder against the jacket shoulder if forward shoulders were your issue.
    If your tailor is able to correct the issue he is competent to diagnose the problem. If he can't diagnose the problem, unlikely he grasps how to fix it.
     
    Last edited: Sep 6, 2016
  11. simplesimple

    simplesimple Member

    Messages:
    7
    Joined:
    Feb 6, 2016
    Thanks Despos - I will try to get some photos taken. I live in a small town where I don't think there are anything other than seamstress-type alteration shops.
     
    Last edited: Sep 6, 2016
  12. needwants

    needwants New Member

    Messages:
    4
    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2016
    Hi

    Hope you can help with suggestions and more explanation on how to fix this (im no expert in tailoring, while my tailor is good - we both could use some help on this one). The front shoulder/collarbone area is creasing/folding in. Many thanks

    @Despos@a tailor

    [​IMG]
     
  13. a tailor

    a tailor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,852
    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2006
    Location:
    chicago suburbs
    Hello Needwants

    Yes you have hit on the correct alteration. That diagonal shoulder kink is the dead give away.
    hopefully there is an inch of cloth under the collar. So that there is a 3/4" shift leaving 1/4' to fasten the collar back on.
    One inch to work with is ideal, but three quarters will do in a pinch.

    This job takes a good deal of working time, that means its not cheap. $$$$$

    Good luck

    Alex
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by