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Tuxedo Fabric Option

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by fashion_newbie, Jun 19, 2011.

  1. fashion_newbie

    fashion_newbie Well-Known Member

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    I am nearing the age where my friends are slowly getting engaged and will likely be going to many weddings in the coming years. Therefore, at my next stop in HK in a couple of months, I have decided to use a SF-approved tailor and get a tuxedo made. Since he is willing to do CMT, I was looking at my choices.

    I understand from some old threads that a mohair/wool blend can be a good thing for tuxedos. However, what is the proper blend? Does a 30 kid mohair/70 wool, 12 oz make for a good choice?

    Thoughts appreciated.
     
  2. Manton

    Manton Well-Known Member

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    that's a good blend but 12 ounces will wear hot, esp. indoors with a lot of people. Go lighter if you can.
     
  3. Will

    Will Well-Known Member

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    Depends on where you live. 12 ounces is perfect for the Bay area's mild temperatures and generally unheated spaces. Ten ounces is better for New York where they crank the heat up during the winter.
     
  4. pvrhye

    pvrhye Well-Known Member

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    I'd go pretty light. You'll wear it inside mostly.
     
  5. RogerC

    RogerC Well-Known Member

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    Dugdale brothers has a very wide selection of formalwear cloth options, available through their web store. I have a 3-piece dinner suit of their 10oz midnight barathea (no. 8737) that I recently wore on a warm summer evening gala without a sweat.
     
  6. fashion_newbie

    fashion_newbie Well-Known Member

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    Interesting. I was thinking this might be too light. I am from Chicago but the weddings will be all over. I think I'll try to do between 10-12 oz.

    I am also assuming 4.0m is enough for a tux?
     
  7. rsl

    rsl New Member

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    i'm in the process of having a tux made in HK also - i live here, so have approached it as a "warm weather" suit. i won't live here forever, so i would like something that can work back home in colder climates.

    I'm using a 260gm wool/mohair mix. seems to be the right mix of warm weather practicality but also will be suitable in colder cities. plus, i got a waistcoat, so i don't think i'll get cold if I need to wear to a formal event in a european winter (for example).
     
  8. fashion_newbie

    fashion_newbie Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the input. How much fabric did you need for your tux w/vest?
     
  9. Manton

    Manton Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the input. How much fabric did you need for your tux w/vest?

    it will depend on your height and width but you need very little for a low front vest. Also, the facings are silk, not self. Unless you are andre the giant, 4m should be way more than enough.
     
  10. fashion_newbie

    fashion_newbie Well-Known Member

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    Thanks Manton. I'm 5'8 so far from Andre. Will go with 4m.
     
  11. RogerC

    RogerC Well-Known Member

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    I used 4m for the three-piece, but the vest is backless. I'm 6"3 by the way.
     
  12. Simon29

    Simon29 Member

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    I'm also in the process of having a tuxedo tailor made and am trying to get my head around different fabric options. I was hoping some more experienced posters would be able to help me out.

    - First option is Dugdale Bros Formalwear 9oz plain black Barathea.
    - Another option is a plain black worested cloth from a wide range of places (Holland & Sheery, Harrisons, Thomas Fisher etc)
    -Third option is to have a mohair blend.

    I'm after a classic single button, peak lapel tuxedo, likely with grosgrain trim. If anyone could help explain the pros & cons of the different fabric options it would be hugely appreciated..I'm also searching past threads and researching but it's all very new to me!

    Cheers
     
  13. fashion_newbie

    fashion_newbie Well-Known Member

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    I used 4m for the three-piece, but the vest is backless. I'm 6"3 by the way.

    Do you usually wear the vest?

    I feel like a vest is very classic but maybe not worn as often. Meaning, if I am not in the wedding party, it isn't necessary. Furthermore, I like the look without the vest.
     
  14. RogerC

    RogerC Well-Known Member

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    @ Simon 29

    Barathea is the classic weave for eveningwear. It is relatively open, which means that it will be much more comfortable than more tightly woven worsteds. It also has some surface interest, which works well under artificial light (which is when you'll be wearing it), and makes it look less like a business suit with fancy facings.
    As to mohair: I don't really like the mohair sheen, but if that is your thing, pick it up and run with it.

    @fashion_newbie

    I always wear the vest. My dinner suit is single-breasted, and hence requires some sort of waist covering. Few things are as off-putting in evening dress as displaying the unfinished bottom of the shirt. It just looks sloppy. I never got around to trying a cummerbund, though, as the backless vest is quite comfortable, also on summer evenings.
     
  15. fashion_newbie

    fashion_newbie Well-Known Member

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    @fashion_newbie

    I always wear the vest. My dinner suit is single-breasted, and hence requires some sort of waist covering. Few things are as off-putting in evening dress as displaying the unfinished bottom of the shirt. It just looks sloppy.


    Thanks for the input. Also going to go with SB.

    The back-less vest is not something I was considering but will think about it now. I suppose another advantage compared with a regular vest is that it works better in the heat.

    I never got around to trying a cummerbund, though, as the backless vest is quite comfortable, also on summer evenings.

    The idea being, if the vest is too hot, replace with cummerbund?
     
  16. RogerC

    RogerC Well-Known Member

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