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Turnbull and Asser NYC Bespoke Opinions?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by PSNY, Jun 28, 2013.

  1. PSNY

    PSNY Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    151
    Joined:
    May 19, 2013
    Location:
    New York, NY
    I've scouted the store on several occasions and have fallen in love with some of the out of the ordinary not overly loud T&A exclusive patterns. No other shirt maker in my opinion has been able to define themselves quite like T&A has with their unique patterns. You can look at someone and instantly tell its a T&A shirt.

    Has anyone had any experience with T&A New York? If so, how was it? How was your overall measuring experience? I've read a few negative reviews, but they were mostly complaints about RTW shirts and customer service.

    Any feedback would be greatly appreciated!

    Here is some fabric porn:


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  2. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,335
    Joined:
    Dec 26, 2003
    Location:
    NYC
    obviously, I have never had a shirt made at T & A
    but
    Robert Gillotte runs the custom dept. He is an old friend of mine. He is good!

    Turnbull designs and commissions very distinctive fabrics, from the better italian mills.
    These patterns are confined to them.
    this does not mean that their fabric never shows up in the secondary market.
    I have purchased Turnbull fabric in the past.

    the only problem, I see with their shirts, is that the patterns are so distinctive, that
    Tie matching can be limited, and the patterns are very recognizable.
    You better own a large assortment of shirts. You don't want to be wearing the same bold
    pattern shirt every two weeks. your office mates will grow tired of seeing you in. the same busy shirt so often
     
  3. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,452
    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2007
    Location:
    New York
    Maybe I'm just too conservative, but I've always disliked T&A's bold designs. I'm easily satisfied by plain blues, simple stripes and graph checks.

    I know a couple of people who are bespoke customers of T&A NY, and they've both been happy with the service. Try and ensure that Gillotte is around to measure you, as the other guy in their bespoke department seems more 'salesy' to me.
     
    Last edited: Jun 29, 2013
  4. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Joined:
    Dec 26, 2003
    Location:
    NYC
    Rob, used to tell me horror stories about the custom program, when he first started there.

    they seemed to have worked out those issues]

    fabric, and trims are excellent.
    they used to finish side seams with a double needle chain stitch. I think they went back to single needle side closing.
     
  5. wjdecker

    wjdecker Member

    Messages:
    11
    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2011
    Location:
    Southern California
    Shirtmaven:

    Is this the side seam stitch to which you are referring?

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    OP:
    I bought some MTM T&A shirts in the 99/00 years from the London shop. Not versatile, especially if you opt for James Bond cuffs (aka cocktail cuffs or fast cuffs). But I still have them and I still wear them.
     
    Last edited: Jun 29, 2013
  6. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    NYC
    
    please post a photo of the underside
     
  7. wjdecker

    wjdecker Member

    Messages:
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    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2011
    Location:
    Southern California
    Hopefully this captures the underside of the stitch.

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    If it is the double needle chain stitch, how would a typical MTM shirt maker react to a customer request for the same type of side seam stitch?
     
  8. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Joined:
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    Location:
    NYC
    that is not a chain stitch.
    they just close the seams opposite they way some other shirtmakers do
    on my shirts you see 1 row of stitches on the outside and 2 on the inside.
    a chain stitch has 2 rows front and back.

    a chain stitch is not as elegant.
    not an awful way to finish a shirt.
    but, at those prices a single needle close would be expected

    a custom shirt factory that uses a chain stitch will often single needle shirts with colored thread. So they dont have to keep setting up the machine.

    many larger custom shirt factories will chain stitch the top center placket.
    this actually make matching stripe a little easier.
     
    Last edited: Jun 29, 2013
  9. wjdecker

    wjdecker Member

    Messages:
    11
    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2011
    Location:
    Southern California
    Thanks for the information. Here are some pictures of another distinctive feature of T&A shirts (or so I was told at the time) - the cuffs. First, the (in)famous James Bond cuff (aka cocktail or fast cuff) , with some nice rounded corners.

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    And next, the double cuff. Like the cocktail cuff it does not have a gauntlet button. I believe T&A claimed they just use extra fabric to make the gauntlet button necessary. But the only difference I see is a little extra twist, marked with an arrow in the third picture. Maybe that is enough.

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    Comments are invited, and I thank the OP for his patience during this diversion.
     
  10. PSNY

    PSNY Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    151
    Joined:
    May 19, 2013
    Location:
    New York, NY
    I have no problem with the diversion. Those are fairly interesting features, T&A porn is welcome!
     
  11. wjdecker

    wjdecker Member

    Messages:
    11
    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2011
    Location:
    Southern California
    OK, a few more details
    1) Collar - this is my T&A linen shirt, in case the tag is confusing. The 9376 stamped on the tag is, I think, a batch number.

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    2) Collar button close-up

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    3) Pattern matching of all those stripes at the placket

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    Last edited: Jun 29, 2013

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