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To all UK Members, Ethical Dilemma -- Please Help!

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Bounder, Jun 28, 2010.

  1. Usul

    Usul Well-Known Member

    Jun 3, 2010
    Does anyone else feel like a pair of cord longwings would look nice with black tie?
  2. JayJay

    JayJay Well-Known Member

    Jun 25, 2007
    Does anyone else feel like a pair of cord longwings would look nice with black tie?
    Thom Browne, is that you? [​IMG]
  3. Bounder

    Bounder Well-Known Member

    Mar 14, 2009
    He must call the archibishop of Canterbury...He is a great theologian.
    Harumph. You were one of the sartorial Yodas I was counting on to shower me with wisdom in this time of doubt and crisis. Anyway, I doubt the Archbishop ever really gets to wear black tie. . . . Does he? Because that would actually be kind of cool.
    i call bullshit the one thing that has struck me about London is how terribly people dress project for you: go down one day to Leadenhall Market at lunchtime and count the following: - awful pinstripe suits - pencil-thick lapels - single-breasted suit jackets, unbuttoned - double-breasted suit jackets, unbuttoned (particularly ghastly) - corrected-grain shoes - unshined shoes i don't think businesswear gets more serious, it's at the footsteps of the Lloyd's building for fuck's sake
    But all of the unshined, corrected-grain shoes were black, right? You are not the first person to comment on this. Here's a quote from a very insightful, even brilliant, post from another thread. For example, there are certain recognized styles for suits e.g., Neopolitan, English, etc. Even different Savile Row houses have distinctive styles. Over the last several years, I've noticed a new style developing in London which I call "Gormless." It consists of a suit, often black, that appears to have been extensively tailored to make it fit as poorly as possible. The Gormless look is accented by a polypropylene tie and shoes that have been run through a dryer along with a couple of rocks. These people dress with all the joie de vivre of medieval peasants. The Gormless look makes one long for the elegant stylings of Hugo Boss and Kenneth Cole, I kid you not. http://www.styleforum.net/showpost.p...5&postcount=81 Anyway in the City, the powers that be, or those that want to be, do indeed wear black shoes. Some foreigners, such as the French, might not, but they are so obviously not PLU that brown shoes are the least of their problems. Once again, there is no rule in the City that you must wear black shoes but if you don't, you are sending a signal that many people will pick up on, especially in certain circles.
  4. lasbar

    lasbar Well-Known Member

    Oct 13, 2006
    You're absolutely right about the City..

    There was a massive influx of German,French,Italians and many other nationalities working for the banking industry and the City style has evolved more in the last decade or 20 years than ever before...

    My brother-in-law is a senior currency trader for a big London bank and his clothes are just appaling...
    Black shoes matched with Italian or Hugo Boss suits and Marks&Spencer shirts...

    The guy is on a massive wage and his sartorial flair is close to none...

    His colleagues are exactly the same..

    I remember meeting a few guys when waiting for a fitting...Most guys were American customers with a few European ...
    That was strange..
  5. GBR

    GBR Well-Known Member

    Mar 15, 2006
    Don't get so wound up about such an irrelevance: the organisers have recognised that lounge suit is now acceptable and leave it at that. Their call, now follow it and don't be so pious about 'tradition'. Above all you are travelling and so it is less reasonable to have the now demoted dress.
  6. culverwood

    culverwood Well-Known Member

    Jun 6, 2007
    Whether this is a social or business function I would wear the black tie and not be concerned about the shoes. Hardly anyone wears opera pumps and very few black patent. I myself wear black well polished loafers with black tie as do many people I know.

    If it is a social event you should wear black tie as the host asked and if it is business your associates will notice you not wearing black tie and will not notice the shoes you are wearing if you are wearing black tie.
  7. bbhewee

    bbhewee Well-Known Member

    Jan 23, 2010
    With regards to the black shoe in the City rule, although observed by most English-born-and-bred males within the square mile, I've found that only a few actually do it properly (ie not a squared-toe loafer with more stitching and panels than Frankenstein would ever deem acceptable)... I personally find that rule terribly archaic, since most break other "traditional" lounge suit rules all the time while still wearing black shoes (taking one's coat off during the day, etc)... And from the conversations I've had on the subject matter with my British friends, they find it perfectly acceptable for a foreigner to wear brown shoes, it's just that they feel they can't do it.

    With regards to the dilemma from the OP, I think you will find that you're holding the average Englishman to much higher standards than they actually have: as long as you're wearing a nice pair of black shoes, I think you will find you are in the upper tier of sartorial excellence in this particular environment. As for opera pumps, quite frankly, I've not seen a pair of those worn in ages. Patent derbies seem to be the standard choice for the select few who choose to go the whole nine yards.
    Having said that, why don't you take a pair of shoes that are slightly more versatile than a punched-cap toe in black cordovan? Why not some cap-toe oxfords or a plain toe derby in black calf?

    *edit* just saw the above post... +1

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