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thoughts on trouser rise?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Ennius, Feb 25, 2013.

  1. Ennius

    Ennius Well-Known Member

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    I think rise is a certain measure roughly from the bottom of the beltline to where the two different leg seams meet? That is basically how my tailor showed me how to measure it.

    I guess my waist has a shorter rise versus your average person, given the same height. I suppose I could pull up my pants PeeWee Herman style, but its very uncomfortable and doesnt really fit right for me. Thus I can live with legs that appear shorter (as they are). The Phineas Cole trousers fit well and I think look decent. If I got benchmade trousers, I think I would still wind up with about a 9 inch rise, as thats how my body measures...

    I have heard American designers tend towards longer rises than European designers, on average (but not for all, of course). Ultimately I guess one needs to find a designer that roughly fits their body and then tailor it well?
     
  2. gyasih

    gyasih Well-Known Member

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    Ennius, you are correct. That is the best way to measure rise.
     
  3. Superfluous

    Superfluous Well-Known Member

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    I have pants from all over the place, however, I tend to buy high rise, pleated pants such as Polo Ralph Lauren Dalton model by Corneliani for pairing with sport coats, and I tend to wear shorter rise, flat front or maybe single reverse pleated for work, etc. without a jacket on such as Ralph Lauren Black Label, Polo Ralph Lauren Preston Model, etc.

    Someone mentioned Paul Stuart pants... I bought a pair of Phineas Cole pants (that I happened to wear last night), that were a 34 tailored down to about a 31 without touching the thighs yet the thighs are still a bit tight. I'm not sure how a true size 34 would have fit in those thighs, however, I still like the pants a lot.
     
    Last edited: Mar 12, 2013
  4. OTM

    OTM Well-Known Member

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    This is a great picture.
     
  5. Ennius

    Ennius Well-Known Member

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    Can anyone comment on the stylistic differences on longer versus shorter rises?

    It does appear that American designers prefer longer rises while European designers (especially Italian) tend towards lower rises, at least that is my initial read.

    When a designer is considering a new look, any idea how they think about rise as part of the overall design process? It certainly seems that Mr. Browne likes the PeeWee Herman pants look...
    I think the same question would apply if you get benchmade trousers/suits - how do you want the rise to look/feel? Start with your basic body share and then perhaps push it a bit one way or another for style preferences?


    But in buying trousers in the future one of my first questions will be what is the rise.
     
  6. Trompe le Monde

    Trompe le Monde Well-Known Member

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    you can't generalize an entire continent. there are stylistic differences from maker to maker, region to region, time period to time period. the rise is not a drop from a fixed point on your waist, its the height of the rise on your waist away from the crotch. and it is relative to the rest of your clothing - whether you like to wear things tight or loose, short or long, clunky or trim. theres no magic number. its a matter of shapes and proportions.

    fwiw, i like 10-10.5 on denim and chinos. 10.25-10.75 on formal trousers. that fits my body and my choices in dress
     
  7. Ennius

    Ennius Well-Known Member

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    Trompe le Monde-

    Do you get bespoke pants, or do you know which brands have the right rise for you?
     
  8. Trompe le Monde

    Trompe le Monde Well-Known Member

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    many of the better online vendors have measurements posted - howardyount, shopthefinest, even suitsupply, etc
     

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