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The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Brei

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by gdl203, May 20, 2007.

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  1. CMT1

    CMT1 Well-Known Member

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    Definitely one of my favorites! In fact I like it so much I sometimes hesitate to wear it. I've had it for a year and the patina seems to be developing very quickly - I'd like to preserve its golden-brown color for as long as possible. It's stupid, I know, as the strap is meant to be worn and I can always source another 24/22 JV when necessary, but I still can't help being a little bitch about it given their expense.



    I have an X serial 16220 that I love. Well ...used to love. It's an early 90s Datejust and it used to have a white dial with white roman numerals before my wife appropriated it. I used to really enjoy wearing it on hot days when larger/heavier pieces would prove uncomfortable and always found it to be a perfect city/sport watch. I really appreciated the 36mm size when I did not feel like strapping a larger hunk of metal to my wrist.

    These days it has a smooth bezel and a custom pink MOP/diamond dial, and I cannot bear to look at it.
     
    1 person likes this.
  2. cyc wid it

    cyc wid it Well-Known Member

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    OK yeah I guess this is terminology fail on my part.
     
  3. keepthetime

    keepthetime Member

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    Here is a Datejust with an Engine Turned bezel and Tapestry Dial. An awesome combo and not something you see every day.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    4 people like this.
  4. Hayward

    Hayward Well-Known Member

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    I'm sorry, but for you to (rightfully) defend the Oysterquartz and then turn around and poop on the Spring Drive is a bit much.

    I own 3 Spring Drive watches. Of all the watches I have, these are the three watches that I wear all the time. Never had a problem with any of them. And with 15 years worth of time in the discerning Japanese consumer market with no problems,it's a proven design.

    All the Spring Drive movement is is a mechanical movement with a Quartz controlled electromagnetic brake in place of a mechanical escapement. Apart from the visual payoff of a stopless sweep hand, The movement itself has no real friction. That means potentially a much longer service interval. There are some other advantages, such as the 72 hour power reserve.

    Electromechanical escapements are not without precedent. Through the 19th and 20th centuries, many major cities had Hipp clocks as their master clocks.

    My Spring Drive GMT is technically superior to the BLNR on multiple levels. It immediately shows the time in three, rather than just two time zones. The bezel has 72 clicks as opposed to the Rolex' 24. That means greater flexibility in setting the third time zone. It also allows the bezel to be used for casual interval timing, though not to the same level of precision as a dive bezel. It gains less than a second per day. It has a 72 hour power reserve. It probably has about the same level of bling as the BLNR, but is better distributed throughout the design, and is in my opinion more tasteful. The fit and finish of the watch rivals anything put out by Switzerland apart from the top three.

    The design cues of Grand Seiko watches are typically Japanese. It's an acquired taste for some. Any other reservations go to branding.

    Ultimately, it's a matter of taste, and the willingness to try something new. I for one am glad I did.


    [​IMG]
     
    7 people like this.
  5. marvin100

    marvin100 Well-Known Member

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  6. Belligero

    Belligero Well-Known Member

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    To each his own, it's just that I prefer not to have a quartz watch whose mechanical components require overhauling in Japan every five years. They're quality watches without a doubt, and you know that I have respect for Seiko as a watchmaker — they're as hardcore as they come as far as manufaturing integrity goes — but I'd still rather get something from the hi-beat mechanical or 9F quartz range if I was going Grand Seiko. If I was buying a watch based on specifications, I'd just go straight for the top G-Shock model and be done with it.

    I still enjoy when I get the opportunity to check out a Spring Drive model, but the ownership proposition doesn't appeal to me. Anyway, that's just my opinion; I could be wrong.
     
    Last edited: Feb 13, 2015
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  7. Journeyman

    Journeyman Well-Known Member

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    And as we know and as your username indicates, you are a man of strong opinions! [​IMG]
     
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  8. TheWraith

    TheWraith Well-Known Member

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    There's that beauty again :inlove: I gotta get me one like that some day.
     
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  9. mimo

    mimo Well-Known Member

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    You people are bad for me.
     
  10. Dachshund

    Dachshund Well-Known Member

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    Been out the country for a few days so just catching up. Awesome two-tone GMT a while back - so 80s in such a good way. Also a great Journe a few posts back, and my current favourite JLC demi-grail duometre - that dial is sort of sandy and textured and works so well in the flesh.

    Good to see a morsel of 42mm Ex2 love too - I've just got back from what I would describe as a 'casual' business trip in S Africa and that watch just works so well in that context in my opinion.
     
  11. Dachshund

    Dachshund Well-Known Member

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    Ha! Just saw this from a short while back. +1. Here's mine - old snap but this is my favourite at the moment...

    [​IMG]
     
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  12. Belligero

    Belligero Well-Known Member

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    One thing I give Rolex big credit for in the 3136/3156/3187 movements is that they manufacture a larger base plate and date wheel to properly fit the enlarged dimensions of their respective Datejust II, Day-Date II and Explorer II models. Although I prefer the originial size in every case (no pun intended), I appreciate that the embiggened versions didn't just get the same movement marooned inside with a telltale no-man's-land between the date window and the rehaut.

    I meant to reply to this post earlier, but it's highly salient:


    Well-put about integrated design. Indeed, some kind of water-/air-tight access port in order to stash one's weed would justify the existence of so much wasted space that's currently occupied by the aforementioned spacers and air. "Modders" take note; that's one heck of an opportunity.

    :)

    Otherwise, I'm just picturing tumbleweed:

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 13, 2015
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  13. Dachshund

    Dachshund Well-Known Member

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    I'd never appreciated that size subtlety but you're right - looking at it now it looks well-balanced. It would look horrible if they'd just dumped a smaller movement into it.
     
  14. rnguy001

    rnguy001 Well-Known Member

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    Touching on what Frilly posted a few days ago - Patek decreasing by 7%, Panerai by 5%, Sinn and Dornbleuth as well. WOW. All due respect to what's going on around the world, but it might actually be a buyer's market again soon. So to speak..
     
  15. Belligero

    Belligero Well-Known Member

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    That's their dealer cost in Swiss Francs. The cost you see outside of Switzerland is still going to be higher unless your local currency has also had a massive increase too. It's certainly a buyer's market for those whose cash assets are in CHF, but then again, everything is currently a buyer's market for 'em.
     
    Last edited: Feb 13, 2015
  16. keepthetime

    keepthetime Member

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    Awesome watch and great pic!
    Here is the dragon of the GS Spring Drive line... next to some dragon fruit.

    [​IMG]

    and its beautiful 50 jewel 72 hr power reserve caliber 9R86 Spring Drive movement...

    [​IMG]
     
  17. Keith T

    Keith T Well-Known Member

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    I'm all about longer power reserves....wish that more manufacturers would focus on this as a true "value-added" feature.



    Also, I'm a day or two late on this, but just for the sake of pr0n (you can never have enough).... here's what I consider a decent example of EXP II on NATO. Obviously not my pic, or watch:


    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  18. RogerP

    RogerP Well-Known Member

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    So I think I have finally settled on a strap for the Longines:


    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 13, 2015
    9 people like this.
  19. Keith T

    Keith T Well-Known Member

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    I like it Roger.

    Mesh is really comfortable too, when it fits well.

    Nice combo.
     
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  20. Imyouricecreamman

    Imyouricecreamman Well-Known Member

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    The mesh is perfect for that watch. The traditional mesh and milanaise bracelets have made a comeback in the watch world the last couple of years.
    I've also seen alpine skier, Aksel Lund Svindal wearing the Camaro cased Longines on several occasions.
     
    1 person likes this.
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