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The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Brei

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by gdl203, May 20, 2007.

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  1. Superfluous

    Superfluous Well-Known Member

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    Not a big fan of the FP Journe look.



    These are interesting by Speake Marin

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  2. DLJr

    DLJr Well-Known Member

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    Love Journe. Just have nothing but admiration for them. Beautiful watch, TP.
     
  3. aleksandr

    aleksandr Well-Known Member

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    Don't quite like the second hand on the first one - reminds me of a snake - and how does the second one work??
     
  4. gopherblue

    gopherblue Well-Known Member

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    I love the FP Journe as well. Someday, the Chronometre Bleu or Chronometre Souvrain will be kopped by moi.
     
  5. pmeis

    pmeis Well-Known Member

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    Thanks guys.I resisted the urge for far too long, part of me still yearns for something a little more colorful/unique, but this is hard to beat as an everyday piece.

    I actually sold my Nomos Ahoi and the Grand Seiko GMT to cover this (should end up ahead by $500 or so.). The GS was probably bigger than I like, but it wore smaller than its 43.5mm size would suggest. The lack of the micro-adjust on the clasp and the 15mm thickness were the deal breakers. I love the Ahoi, but I realized after 6 months that it was just a little bigger than I wanted. Still have the Breitling SOH, love the design, but I'm not sure I see myself wearing it with this Sub on hand and will probably look to move it as well.

    That would leave me with just my old Nomos Tangente 35mm watch. It makes a decent dress watch, but I would still prefer it to be a little larger. Will wait to see what Nomos comes out with at Basel and pick up one of their 38mm watches as a replacement. Will likely be going with just two watches for the near future.
     
  6. Dino944

    Dino944 Well-Known Member

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    You haven't specified a budget, and not getting into discounts I'm guessing you are considering something under 30K, and it must be new. I don't know if having some sort of complications is a must for you? If not there are plenty of nice time only watches from AP, VC, PP (I know those don't interest you, although with their recent 7% reduction in MSRP some might be more appealing), or F.PJ. You could for a time only 2 hander the VC PatrimonyTradititionelle automatic 43075/000R-9737, is a lovely watch with the famous ultra think Cal. 1120 (it is the sister caliber to the 2120 in the AP ultra thins). They did a nice job of incorporating the Maltese Cross into the rotor. There are also manual wind models, some models with a subdial for second and some with subdial and date (although, I think they look better without a date. AP has is Jules Audemars line of dress watches...nice and simple...although I find some a bit bland. With Lange there are the Richard Lange models and some 1815 up/down models that might work for you. Breguet makes nice watches, I'd just rather have something from the above companies.

    For things with a few small complications you could go with the Journe. Or if it can be outside of PP, AP, VC, and Lange... Piaget's Altiplano's are very high quality, under appreciated watches with movement made all in house. They have also supplied movements to other fine watch makers in the past. I love their 40 mm manual wind model, with seconds subdial at 11. The one on the right is ultra thin with the movement mounted directly to the case back and visible through the front of the watch. Sort of an interesting take on a see through back, but one you don't have to take off your wrist to enjoy.
    [​IMG][​IMG]

    Or Catier's Rotonde is another nice choice. It was previously only available in precious metals and is now available in steel with some small complications for under $10K . Its quite a value. In gold they are still well under $30K. Regarding the one on the left, I do wish they had not cut into the 12 marker for the date on the dial, but that may not bother some people. They are available in wg with a blue dial for the one on the left, or grey dial for the one on the right, and both have silver dials if you choose the steel models. These are really beautifully done and quite reasonable for what they have to offer . The Rotonde is one of my favorite round watch cases and must be seen in person to appreciate. They are very robust cases and the lugs are really handsome, but unfortunately you can't tell that from the photos. In the end there are tons of round watches that are quite nice from a variety of makers. I also limited my suggestions as you presumed you wanted to stick with round cases.

    [​IMG][​IMG]

    If done nicely they can be very attractive, but generally they don't do much for me.

    Beautiful movement. I can't speak for Stitchy, but from a durability/reliability I would be a bit apprehensive about a gold movement.
     
  7. Keith T

    Keith T Well-Known Member

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    Journe seems far more modern and fresh to me, which makes sense as a newer company of course.

    Chronometre Bleu in particular is hawt. Probably would never own one personally, since I've got so many others on my list.....but I do like it.

    Compared to Breguet (again, much respect for their heritage and craftsmanship) but a lot of their dress watches just remind me of a grandfather clock. YMMV.
     
  8. Dino944

    Dino944 Well-Known Member

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    I like the overall designs of Peter Speake-Marin. I've had an opportunity to try on 2 of them a while ago. I think you would want to look into the movement, if that matters to you. Not sure if its still accurate, but I believe some movements in his watches are or at least were based on some basic ETA calibers. He may have reworked them a bit, but I remember finding that out and being a bit less interested in his entry level pieces (the movements may be in house or have more substantial revisions with his higher priced pieces).
     
  9. tigerpac

    tigerpac Well-Known Member

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    Yeah but why specifically? Any parts with friction aren't gold. And gold actually has anti magnetic characteristics which help shield from magnetism. Guess I never really thought about it as a potential issue and haven't heard of any issues stemming from it but that doesn't mean much as he's only been making all gold movements for a hot minute in horology timelines.
     
  10. in stitches

    in stitches Well-Known Member

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    If there is no friction with any of the gold parts, that would've solve all of my apprehension.

    I like a lot of what SM does. I find that a lot of the independent brands are aesthetically off in some way or another. Almost like it's too try hard. With SM, that is not the case for me, I think they keep it toned down enough and stylistically they do a very nice job.
     
  11. Superfluous

    Superfluous Well-Known Member

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    Thanks, I'll look into the ones you mentioned.

    I realized that going with a very dressy watch might not be the best idea, but if I did, I really like the Patek Calatrava 5119 and the Richard Lange. However, I'm realizing I should go with something a little less dressy and something more unique (I think the Breguet models and the Speake-Marin do that). I've got a lot of time and not in a rush. I also have good access to see Patek, Breguet, Glashutte, Speake-Marin, and possibly even A. Lange later in the year.

    I think the Speake-Marin Velsheda is really cool, but would you be concerned on the brand surviving long term? Pretty new company.


    I found this regarding the movements of Speake-Marin:

    "Through his workshop he worked on pieces for MB&F, Harry Winston and Maitres du Temp, but since 2008, he has focused on his own original creations. Early in the process, Speake-Marin watches were based on movements by ETA, Christophe Claret and Dimier, but the watchmaker has now built these specialities in-house, with movements now produced entirely by the Speake-Marin team."

    http://senatus.net/event/scad-museum-art-oscar-de-la-renta/
     
    Last edited: Feb 11, 2015
  12. aleksandr

    aleksandr Well-Known Member

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    I have the Rotonde Cartier with power reserve in steel - also a Dino recommendation - and it is very, very nice.

    [​IMG]

    Although wirh a 30k budget I think I too would've gone for something from PP or the other usual suspects.
     
    Last edited: Feb 11, 2015
  13. in stitches

    in stitches Well-Known Member

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    With a budget of 30K this is what I would be getting, no question whatsoever. JLC Duometre.


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
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  14. Cant kill da Rooster

    Cant kill da Rooster Well-Known Member

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    Picked this up for the purpose of flipping it but it's growing on me.

    [​IMG]
     
    4 people like this.
  15. Sander

    Sander Well-Known Member

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    What is this kind of dial treatment called? I hate shiny dials and this is very nice.
     
  16. in stitches

    in stitches Well-Known Member

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    I don't know the official name of it, but it looks almost like it is sandblasted. I have seen it in person and it is absolutely amazing.
     
  17. Dino944

    Dino944 Well-Known Member

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    Its good that you recognize something little less dressy might be better for you. Recognizing what will work best for you in terms of design is key. Obviously, it should be something you like, but its important to choose a style that works well with your lifestyle and with your wardrobe so that you will get the most enjoyment and use from a watch. Since you have plenty of time, be sure to do a lot of research and visit stores and boutiques a few times to see which pieces truly peak your interests. You may discover some pieces that you had not previously considered and some that you had considered may not live up to your expectations, or may not fit you as well as you had hoped. So definitely do your homework and try on anything that may be in the running.

    As for long terms survival of a brand it is really difficult to say, which companies will or won't survive. On some level making a decision to go with a smaller company may be a function of how risk averse you are. Some companies will survive troubled finances or even the death of a founder, if there is a enough interest some other larger company may purchase them and keep them going. Small independents are like a double edge sword. Their pieces are rare, so you won't see them in the wild, and you may even get to meet the founder at some point, which is cool. However, you may run in to parts availability or service issues years down the road, particularly if the founder passes and the company closes, or even if the company is taken over and say the new owner changes the direction in which the company goes. Also, value of a piece years from now (may be difficult to determine or it could be tough to sell should you tire of it, since they often have little brand recognition even with regular watch buyers/collectors. I have a friend who bought a JDN tourbillon (that is Daniel Roth's current company), and that's a very small company that few people know about. He loved interacting with Mr. Roth and having some say in the production of his watch...although it took considerably longer than promised. However, if something happened to Mr. Roth, I am doubtful the company would survive and parts could be nearly impossible to replace. Granted, there are some high end watch makers that might take on a project, and its my understanding that AP, will work on/restore watches that are not their if they are deemed something of horological significance ...still that seems like a risky proposition (to potentially not have parts availability and to have to search for someone who is qualified to work on a torbillon), when dealing with a roughly $135,000 watch. My friend loves the watch and doesn't worry about it, and he is in the watch business. If I were buying a tourbillon I probably would have bought one from a major company so that parts, service, and future value are not a concern. Again, only you can decide if you would be comfortable with some future uncertainties.
     
  18. Kaplan

    Kaplan Well-Known Member

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    Speaking of Type XX (and their descendants) how do you like the Dodane Type 23?

    [​IMG]

    As for the recent discussion, even though it's not the kind of thing I'm usually attracted to, I find that the Journe Chronomètre Bleu has grown a lot on me over the last year or so.
     
  19. Dino944

    Dino944 Well-Known Member

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    Looks great! You should take a picture showing some of the case side and lugs for others to see. I love the case and lugs on this piece!
    Very nice. I've had mine for 13 years and its great watch. Not as quickly recognized by most people as say a Sub or GMT, which is nice since its flies under the radar a bit, but its still very Rolex. Mine says hello.
    [​IMG]
     
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  20. Superfluous

    Superfluous Well-Known Member

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    Yup, definitely a risk.

    I really like the Speake-Marin Velsheda the more I look at it. I'm going to stop in a dealer in another city that carries it next month when in town.
     
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