1. Welcome to the new Styleforum!

    We hope you’re as excited as we are to hang out in the new place. There are more new features that we’ll announce in the near future, but for now we hope you’ll enjoy the new site.

    We are currently fine-tuning the forum for your browsing pleasure, so bear with any lingering dust as we work to make Styleforum even more awesome than it was.

    Oh, and don’t forget to head over to the Styleforum Journal, because we’re giving away two pairs of Carmina shoes to celebrate our move!

    Please address any questions about using the new forum to support@styleforum.net

    Cheers,

    The Styleforum Team

    Dismiss Notice

The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Brei

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by gdl203, May 20, 2007.

Tags:
Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.
  1. tigerpac

    tigerpac Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    725
    Joined:
    Jan 7, 2013
    Location:
    Hoboken
    Same kt should be same gold content be it yellow, white or rose, so they're close in my experience.
     
  2. Journeyman

    Journeyman Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,774
    Joined:
    Mar 29, 2005
    Location:
    Brisbane, Australia
    Does anyone here with white gold watches have experience with the rhodium plating on the white gold wearing off over time?

    I don't have any white gold jewellery or watches, as I prefer stainless steel or platinum, but I have heard from others that the rhodium plating that gives white gold its shine can wear off over time and that WG jewellery can need to be re-plated as a consequence. Of course, I'd guess that this happens more with rings, rather than watches, but it still seems to be a legitimate concern, especially if you're paying a considerable premium for WG over steel.
     
  3. Dino944

    Dino944 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,660
    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2011
    Location:
    Rhode Island
    Goes is a relatively soft metal. White gold, YG, RG, they all show scratches more easily than steel. The bigger issue with white gold was raised below by Journeyman, the plating of white gold.

    Most white gold watches are plated with rhodium, another precious metal. The reason why is depending on the alloy composition, WG is generally a sort of gray color, and not a bright white color that we expect to see. Its often the reason why WG version of a watch costs more than YG or RG. Lange is one of the few companies that used a WG composition that does not require rhodium plating. I am not sure if JLC's white gold is currently plated with rhodium. Over time Rhodium can wear and even chip off. Chipping off is more common with rings that because they come in contact with so many things. However, I have heard of WG wearing or chipping off of watches. Rhodium plating also limits what can be done if you get some serious dings or scratches unless you want to pay to re-plate it, which can be expensive...IIRC I've heard quotes of $1,000 or more. Years ago I owned one white gold watch, a Rolex Daytona, and I wouldn't choose WG again. I also wouldn't buy anything that is plated.
     
  4. BostonHedonist

    BostonHedonist Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,692
    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2011
    Location:
    London
    What do you like for dual time or worldtimer watches? I'm about to move to London for two years and I'll be managing a team back in the states, also must maintain contact with several people in the far East. Seems sensible to have something on my wrist that'll tell time in at least two places at a glance.

    Here are three options I'm considering:

    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
     
  5. scottcw

    scottcw Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,088
    Joined:
    Dec 29, 2009
    Location:
    Supportland
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2015
    1 person likes this.
  6. Dachshund

    Dachshund Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    656
    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2014
    Location:
    At large
    Actually, mimo has a good point here. On reflection, if I'd sold it I like to think I'd have made a decent donation to the charity. If I'd have kept it then maybe likewise.
     
    2 people like this.
  7. DLJr

    DLJr Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,655
    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2011
    Location:
    Philly Burbs
    I own the Nomos (though the original version) and find it quite easy to read. I was between the Nomos and the JLC Master Geographic and found I preferred the Nomos in the end. The only issue you may have is the lack of date.
     
  8. mimo

    mimo Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    7,375
    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2012
    Heimat's where the heart is...
     
    2 people like this.
  9. BostonHedonist

    BostonHedonist Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,692
    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2011
    Location:
    London
    What was it that tipped the scale toward the Nomos? I haven't seen that particular model in person yet but my guess would be that the finish on the JLC would be the more remarkable, while the Nomos, the more straightforward instrument.
     
  10. DLJr

    DLJr Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,655
    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2011
    Location:
    Philly Burbs
    Nomos Pros: Ease of reading. Time zone/Travel Time is connected to the main hour hand, home time is the smaller 24 hour display at 3 (to me this is the appropriate way). Movement finishing. Tactile second time zone adjustment. Depth, layers, and surfaces of dial. Fit of watch on wrist and versatility. Weight.
    Nomos Cons: No marker for timezones who observe Daylight Savings. No date. Can only move timezones in one direction

    JLC Pros: Case finishing. Depth/layers/surfaces of dial, Date, Daylight Saving Markers. Timezones can move in either direction.
    JLC Cons: The subdial is the dial you read when traveling and it's not that easy to read at a glance while your home time is the main dial. The dial is a bit cluttered, especially sfor the travel time being the subdial time. Main hour hand jumps when switching timezones. It's a winky face design.

    If I were impartial, there isn't enough between them to justify the cost difference. And if I let my heart speak, when having both on the wrist at the same time, the Nomos was just better (to me) in every respect. So it wasn't a matter of money, I just straight preferred the Nomos from head to toe (though that is a personal opinion and should only be taken as such). The only thing that is irksome for me is the fact that I can't go both directions on the time zones, but it takes less than 20 seconds to get through the 24 zones, so no big deal. Plus the feel on the pusher is very nice.
     
    3 people like this.
  11. aleksandr

    aleksandr Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,265
    Joined:
    Feb 1, 2008
    Location:
    Singapore
    So it's been a tough couple of days (TWAT wise that is). I started out wanting the 36mm oyster perpetual with blue dial (someone in here, I forget who koped a few months back and it was beautiful). Didn't really do much about it though figuring it was something that would be easily available and shelved it for future purchase.

    Fast forward a few months and suddenly the Swiss franc is in an upward spiral. Prices are more or less guaranteed to go up - no one knows exactly by how much but it's definitely going to be significant. Everyone goes into a watch buying frenzy (I kid you not, more on this later) and yours truly decides to get in on the action too, notwithstanding he had just sworn off purchasing so save up for grail watch.

    Saturday. Manage to convince the wife a watch purchase now isn't the worst idea ever. Visit my friendly dealer to check out dial colors for the oyster perpetual but don't actually try any on. This is where the two tone monstrosity from a couple of pages back first comes in. Randomly caught my eye and fell in love, then decided I hated it, looked some more and fell in love again, looked at sticker price and balk. Leave in a rush but promise to be back.

    Sunday. Am in constant communication with my dealer rep who shows me a bunch of other stuff I can consider. Definitely going to kop at this point, but what?

    Monday. Walk in, am presented with these 3 beauties.

    [​IMG]


    From left to right - rhodium dial with Arabic numerals, blue azzuro dial with Roman numerals, blue dial with stick markers. Am dissuaded from the oyster perpetual because at 36 mm it's too small for my wrist size.

    Next two hours were pretty agonizing. Blue dial quickly gets eliminated from the running by the wife, who says blue azzuro is much more interesting. Down to the rhodium (my preference) and blue azzuro (the wife).

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I try both on, stare at the dials for what seems like forever. The blue azzuro dial is really quite special, but then again so is the rhodium dial. I like the lavender(?) Arabic numerals on the rhodium dial, wife thinks its slightly feminine and lobbies hard for the blue azzuro. Back and forth.

    I eventually kop the rhodium dial but if you ask me why I can't quite put a finger on it. Edged out the blue azzuro dial but only the slightest of margins. I think I would've been happy with any of the three.

    [​IMG]

    On the watch buying frenzy - business is booming at the dealer I go to. Mondays are the quietest in retail, which is when I like to go since I can get the best service. Today looked like a quiet Saturday. They are usually pretty well stocked, but this is what the sub display looked like today:

    [​IMG]

    Two in full yellow gold, and one blue white gold. No more steel Yachtmasters. No more Explorer Is. The two tone DJ abomination I was originally looking at was sold on Sunday evening so I didn't even have the luxury of rejecting it. Nuts.
     
    Last edited: Jan 26, 2015
  12. dopey

    dopey Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    14,577
    Joined:
    Oct 12, 2006
    First eliminated was best choice (IMO).

    Rhodium dial is the nicer of the two remaining because of the numerals, but both are too cluttered and crowded.
    NVM - I see you did choose the better option in the end.
     
    Last edited: Jan 26, 2015
    1 person likes this.
  13. TheTukker

    TheTukker Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,510
    Joined:
    Aug 17, 2007
    Just curious: why are you not considering this one (not my pic):

    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  14. DLJr

    DLJr Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,655
    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2011
    Location:
    Philly Burbs
    He may be now, I did bring it up, though I still suggested the Nomos. I know, shocking.
     
  15. HRoi

    HRoi Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    17,796
    Joined:
    Dec 28, 2008
    The Nomos is lovely, and it's on my short list. But the JLC's are on a different level. I'm in the same boat in that I do business with people in different time zones. I bought the world geo for that purpose
     
  16. DLJr

    DLJr Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,655
    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2011
    Location:
    Philly Burbs
    Have you put on the Weltzeit?
     
  17. HRoi

    HRoi Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    17,796
    Joined:
    Dec 28, 2008
    I admit that I havent. Not many retailers in south Florida (supposedly tourneau but I haven't seen them stock this model). Do you disagree about it being on a lower level than JLC?
     
  18. Winot

    Winot Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    472
    Joined:
    Nov 5, 2006
    Location:
    London
    
    I went through this thought process recently as I wanted a GMT watch for the occasional overseas trips I go on. I really like the look of the Lange Saxonia Dual Time, but didn't feel comfortable traveling with a GBP 22K watch on my wrist. So I went for this in the end. Haven't traveled with it yet, but happy with the look and the functionality. [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  19. Dino944

    Dino944 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,660
    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2011
    Location:
    Rhode Island
    Definitely the JLC. I find them more versatile, less cluttered looking, although some may disagree. The quality of all are very nice, but for me the JLCs would be the front runners. The best thing to do is try them on in person and go with which every one really makes you smile!

    Congrats on the new addition! It looks great! I like all three of these far more than the one you were considering over the weekend. The Blue Azzuro was interesting, but on a Rolex I prefer at least the hand have lum...which the blue did not. I just find it useful for daily wearers, or watches that are not pure dress watches.
    One of my favorite JLC models. So simply to use and so well done, that both VC and AP have used the basic movement for their Dual Time Royal Oak and Dual Time Overseas. Great watch!!!
     
  20. DLJr

    DLJr Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,655
    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2011
    Location:
    Philly Burbs
    As far as in general, for the brands, definitely. And for those models specifically, certainly on the case. I don't think anyone would argue those points. But, even though the complication in the Nomos is simpler on those two models, I find it superior. Switching timezones doesn't cause the hour hand to jump/wobble/wiggle/whatever on the Nomos as it does on the JLC. Switching timezones is also much more tactile and enjoyable for me on the Nomos vs the JLC. I find the movement finishing on the Nomos more pleasing; JLC would be better served putting a solid caseback on a lot of it's models as their finish is rather industrial (for lack of a better term). And legibility is definitely better on the Nomos; JLC put the travel time in the wrong place, IMO, and the dial is a bit cluttered. Having them both on the wrist, I thought the Nomos (as a total package) just blew it away, but a lot of that came down to personal preferences and what I was looking for in a GMT/Travel Time watch. The silvered dial (not the blue pictured, I have not handled the blue dial) on the Nomos is really, really great and I'm not sure that comes through in pictures. Though if you just hold both of them, the case and the strap will tell the story of JLC being on a different level for sure. I think when you put them on your wrist, use them (for me, the true key), and maybe give a peak at the back side is where the Weltzeit really closes the gap.
     
Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by