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The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Brei

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by gdl203, May 20, 2007.

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  1. Belligero

    Belligero Well-Known Member

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    ^
    Subdial seconds are sexi

    [​IMG]
     
    3 people like this.
  2. velomatt

    velomatt Well-Known Member

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    I don't disagree with that. But when every watch has that look, it loses something. And I recognize that it is not trivial to redesign a movement to change the placement.
     
  3. Belligero

    Belligero Well-Known Member

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    ^
    I hope to see a sweep seconds hand from Nomos, too.
    In a chronograph.
    :D
     
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  4. mimo

    mimo Well-Known Member

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    ^in-house column-wheel chronograph, of course.

    I think I might have to buy a watch quite soon.
     
    Last edited: Dec 19, 2014
  5. Dino944

    Dino944 Well-Known Member

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    That was really enjoyable to read thank you for sharing your top three. I agree with most of what you said particularly your assessment of most modern Pateks, VCs, Cartiers, Omegas, and tourbillons.

    I know this is subjective, but I just don't feel any love for Nomos. I know its a favorite here, and the quality vs. price ratio is completely justified. However, where they fall flat for me is their design. I find them so stoic and cold that no matter how high it is in terms of quality, I just don't see a model that I like enough to ever purchase. Some of their dial designs might work better for me as a desk clock or wall clock, as they remind me a bit of the Mondaine Swiss Railway clocks. The cases and lugs are another area that again, don't inspire me. I find them so utilitarian that I feel bored just looking at them. The Zurich might be the only model I could consider and even then I feel it's a bit generic looking. Again, I recognize the quality and the price are some factors that what make it a great brand, however there aren't any that I'd truly love to own.

    Again great writing and thank you for sharing your thoughts about your favorite brands. [​IMG]
     
  6. in stitches

    in stitches Well-Known Member

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    Belli, that post was magnificent.

    As to the quasi AP "hate" when it comes to their other models, I just dont get it. They have not shortage of great looking watches. Their ultra slim is probably my favorite gold ultra slim model on the market, and the equation of time perp cal is one of my fave high complication watches, not to mention a bevy of other great models, both technically and visually, and the finishing is sublime.

    I understand that beauty is in the eye of the beholder, but when I hear people say or imply that "all" they have going for them is the RO, it leaves me wondering how many AP watches they have actually looked at.

    /fanboi rant
     
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  7. dopey

    dopey Well-Known Member

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    Vacheron holds pride of place for me for having made the best looking dress watch ever (and it is nicer version of what Nomos does than Nomos does).
     
  8. mimo

    mimo Well-Known Member

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    There are a lot of nice APs - the Jules Audemars are really attractive. But when you head to big three prices, I think the question is where to get the maximum "wow". Dress watches by definition tend to be simple, and the differences in character very narrow and subjective. I don't think anyone loves Patek Philippe best because of their most traditional Calatrava.

    Making a luxury watch that leaps out from the rest while retaining some dignity is quite a trick. I think that's why AP is differentiated mostly by its iconic dressy-sporty-everything watch. It's also why Lange stands out for me as my "Big Five" favourite: of course, it's subjective whether one likes them, but their design personality is strong and distinctive, even if, or because, it strays from classic luxury dress watch definitions.

    Anyway, there is a lot of love to go around...
     
    Last edited: Dec 19, 2014
  9. Belligero

    Belligero Well-Known Member

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    ^
    Absolutely; they're virtuoso watchmakers.

    Here's an example of those impeccable chops to which I was referring:

    [​IMG]
    from kronosclub

    No meedly-mee-guitar-solo-esque complications on this one, just a time-only movement done in ultra-high-quality. Not that they don't know how to make some mean complications, too.
     
    Last edited: Dec 19, 2014
  10. DLJr

    DLJr Well-Known Member

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    For me it's not AP hate it's that I prefer a similar Lange, Vacheron, FPJ, etc. At that price level there are a lot of great pieces and it's so dependent on personal tastes.
     
  11. Mr. Moo

    Mr. Moo Well-Known Member

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    I've loved all of the Club models online, and tried on a number of them in various sizes in the metal, and came to the conclusion that the lugs are just too damn long.
     
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  12. Belligero

    Belligero Well-Known Member

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    Aw, thanks; my pleasure!



    Regarding Nomos: They're young. Give them time.

    I think it's unspeakably cool that that they've embarrassed so many of the big guys by pulling off that balance spring coup without making a big deal about it. I also feel that the basic Club model is by far the watch to have for under $2K, that the travel-time Zurich is delicious, and that the sublime Lambda is the ultimate modern watch for someone like a successful architect. But yes, it's a subjective area for sure, and ya gotta dig a bit of minimalism.

    Although I don't own any either, I see good things in their future and wish them nothing but the best. They just seem like a company run by intelligent, creative and genuinely nice people, and I can't support that enough.
     
    Last edited: Dec 19, 2014
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  13. in stitches

    in stitches Well-Known Member

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    Belli, I love that watch/movement. The finishing is unreal.
     
  14. TradThrifter

    TradThrifter Well-Known Member

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    I really want to like Nomos. But it's so plain. And not just plain, because I like minimalistic dress watches, but the case isn't slim and sleek like a dress watch either. Kind of reminds me more of a military style watch like a Timex Weekender or Hamilton Khaki, but I can't quite place it. Maybe it's the lugs that throw me off.
     
  15. TheWraith

    TheWraith Well-Known Member

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    There are many Nomos watches I really like. But not all of them. I think that's the case for most watch brands, though.
     
  16. Dino944

    Dino944 Well-Known Member

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    I think its rare to like all offerings of any brand. With Nomos, at this point there is really nothing I like enough to consider purchasing.

    However, our likes and dislikes help make this a diverse thread.
     
    Last edited: Dec 19, 2014
  17. SteveH35

    SteveH35 Well-Known Member

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    My latest review video: Patek 3970 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph

    [​IMG]
     
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  18. TheWraith

    TheWraith Well-Known Member

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    Exactly what I said :)
     
  19. velomatt

    velomatt Well-Known Member

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    For me, it is frustrating to like what they're doing on the technical side and value side, but not find the design that inspires you to pull the trigger. Yes, a watch is a machine, but it is a cosmetic item as well, and it feels like a missed opportunity for the company to lose out on sales simply because of the choice of the dial and hands. What is the incremental cost of a world class dial design?

    Maybe I'm just not open minded enough with regards to design.
     
  20. academe

    academe Well-Known Member

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    Now that I have time, I'll expand on my list...

    AP: Perhaps my favourite manufacture. I love their sense of design, their willingness to take risks and innovate, whether its with basic watch design (e.g. Millenary) or with new materials (e.g. forged carbon). Even though many criticise the Offshore range because of the endless stream of limited editions, nouveau riche celebrity endorsements, and sheer bling factor, one has to admit that it was a gutsy move for AP - one of the Big Three - to roll-out a product like the Offshore so many moons ago. None of the other top-tier houses (Patek, Vacheron, Lange, etc.) would have had the audacity or the balls to take the same risks. I also like that each of their collections has a clear design language and identity; AP is also very rarely derivative, but rather a leader or trendsetter. Finishing of cases and movements are superlative; the dial, case and integrated bracelet of the RO, for example, has so many different textures, angles and finishes that I never tire of looking at it. I can't say the same of my other watches. If I could afford it, I would happily own multiple versions of the RO, the Jules Audemars and even the Millenary (love the polarising 4101, despite what the critics might say)...I'd even consider owning one of the more restrained Offshores - the new 42mm ones are particularly appealing.

    JLC: Perhaps my second favourite manufacture. I'm simply left in awe by their expertise in movement design and manufacture; the number of calibres they have probably exceeds that of any other house. I love that they, too, have varied collections, each with a clear design identity. Although I'm slightly less enamoured by their sports watches (e.g. Navy SEALS, etc.), and more drawn to their classical offerings, I respect them for their willingness to innovate. The Reverso (after the RO) is probably my second favourite 20th century classic. I would also happily own a slew of JLCs if I could afford them - the number of JLCs which put a smile of my face and just look right to me is ridiculously large; the entire Master Ultra Thin range, the Master Calendar, Master Geographic, Master Chronograph, Memovox, Deep Sea Vintage Chronograph, Master Compressor Chronograph 2, the entire Duometre collection...Stop me please! :satisfied:

    Lange: There is something very special to me about Langes. I think I associate them with German romanticism and some of the composers, poets, philosophers and writers of the last 200-300 years...The Rilke's, Goethe's and Wagners. While some see Langes as austere, I actually find them very warm and human watches. The quirkiness of the asymmetric Lange 1 dials break conventional notions of symmetry in good design.The sweeping, graceful arabics and stepped dials of the 1815s conjure up images of a more genteel era. I also really really love how much attention that Lange give to movement finishing and design. If you have never seen the case back of a Lange hand wound or chronograph in the metal, then you're really missing something special. They are works of art...

    Rolex: I have a special place in my heart for Rolex. As a young "proto" watch collector of 7 years old, I remember admiring the Subs, GMTs and Datejusts that graced the wrists of my family friends in the early 1980s. In fact, Rolex to some extent sparked my interest in watches. I associated Rolex with being an adult; of having crossed that threshold from childhood to adulthood. Strange that now that I am all grown up with kids of my own that my urge to own a Rolex (relative to an AP, JLC or Lange) has diminished. I keep telling myself that next year or 3 years from now I'll buy that SubC No Date or GMT II, but it just never seems to happen...
     
    Last edited: Dec 19, 2014
    3 people like this.
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