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The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Brei

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by gdl203, May 20, 2007.

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  1. in stitches

    in stitches Well-Known Member

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    Long been a fran of that.


    Aside from the Datejust, which I think due to lugs works, I appreciate where you are coming from.

    Just dont like the looks of it.
     
  2. no frills

    no frills Well-Known Member

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    I certainly love my 114270:

    [​IMG]
     
    3 people like this.
  3. Mr. Moo

    Mr. Moo Well-Known Member

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    I really envy you guys able to wear 36mm watches...
     
  4. Belligero

    Belligero Well-Known Member

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    It's entirely personal preference, but I have a big wrist and I don't have any problems going even smaller than that with some of my old watches. My tastes have changed over the years, too; my first decent watch was a 38.5 mm Sinn 356, which I initially found very disappointing, but now I think it's spot-on for a pilot's chronograph and I wouldn't want it any larger.

    This ad was supposed to show how the gigantic watch is more macho or something, but I think the smaller one looks a lot better, not to mention more traditionally masculine.

    [​IMG]

    Extreme outliers aside, I figure the watch-size thing pretty much just comes down to what you're used to, and it's tough to set aside that bias when you're trying on watches in a shop.

    Unless you're wearing something ridiculously far to either end of the scale, the range of what looks normal can pretty broad. It's good to know what you want, though, and I totally get preferring something larger (but still reasonable).
     
    Last edited: Oct 21, 2014
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  5. Dino944

    Dino944 Well-Known Member

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    Beautiful Pasha. Often an under appreciated watch, but IMHO another great design from Genta. I love my Pasha 950 chronograph. Its very distinctive, and it was one of the higher quality pieces from their non-CPCP line. Hope your boss gifts it to you! [​IMG]

    Its an interesting watch and the first truly successful sports watch from VC. Although, they did have some teething problems, with the GP movements in some and also that bracelet was prone to links locking up at times. Still a buddy of mine got the movement fixed and he does enjoy it as an daily wearer with sport jackets/suits and casual wear. He's had his (with a blue dial) for many years. Also, its generally not a lot of $$$ to get a VC on your wrist.

    Congrats on the new additions! Hope you get many years of enjoyment from them. [​IMG]

    Non-sense. There were some statements about the finish in the movements of the 14270, but no actual problems with reliability and ruggedness. I owned the subsequent model, a 114270 for 10 years and liked it a lot. Never had any problems. Only reason I sold it was I had other watches that were time only models that were getting more wrist time. No matter which version of Explorer 1 you get, new or used it should give you many years of great use and enjoyment.

    The new bracelet is very different, with fewer moving parts, I think to get away from the issues of the previous bracelet that used to have links get jammed/locked up together.

    Its a great watch, and most are a pretty reasonable price for a Rolex. When it was released, it was actually their most sophisticated watch and their top of the line. Its MSRP in 1984 was higher than that of a SS Daytona, Sub, GMT, SD, or Ex2. In addition, it was the first of their steel watches to feature a synthetic sapphire crystal, it was more anti-magnetic than a Milgauss, and it had solid bracelet links. I've had mine for about 10 years and its just a great watch. Its really understated, and its also a watch that watchmakers appreciate even though its a quartz. I was wearing it in an AP boutique and the watchmaker noticed it came closer and asked if he could look at it. He said during it training as a watch maker he learned a lot about them and really liked them. Wishing you luck with your eventual journey toward owning an OQ.
     
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  6. TheWraith

    TheWraith Well-Known Member

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    ^ It may not be anytime soon, but I will definitely get one at some point. Probably my next, big purchase, just not sure when.
     
  7. mimo

    mimo Well-Known Member

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    @in stitches , silly question: that Pacha is the big manly one, not the little girly one, right?

    @RFX45 that is outstanding koppage. I think that Solo is a great size on the wrist, too.

    @Mr. Moo , size is a very personal thing, but I would say that if you haven't put the more recent OPs or DJs on the wrist and looked at some pics of yourself wearing them, you should: the modern case shape gives them a lot more presence than the older models, especially on the oyster bracelet. But each to his own.

    @Cleav *sigh*
     
  8. Belligero

    Belligero Well-Known Member

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    Here's an unobstructed view of that movement, unusual clous de Paris decoration and all:

    [​IMG]
    image source: rolex.com

    I'm not sure what to make of the pyramid-styles, but I definitely don't see any quality issues.

    Y'know, that deficient-finishing myth is a very pervasive one; when I started getting into watches, took it as a given that Rolex movements were crudely-finished things due to all the casual racism against them from certain internet-expert types. Contemptuous comments along the lines of "there's a reason they hide the movements behind a solid back" still appear frequently, and it's natural enough to simply accept them as fact. However, watchmakers I've spoken with find that the current movements are well-finished, and credit even the maligned 3000 calibre with exemplary precision in its tolerances.

    One sometimes also encounters dismissive statements regarding Rolex's design goals of low parts count and ease of service, as if those are bad things. When it comes to watchmaking, simple is more difficult than complicated. It's more of a challenge to design a single component instead of two or more to perform a given function, and it results in a more elegant solution.

    As far as I can tell, the main source of these myths is two watch-enthusiast articles that inevitably appear in any discussion of the subject: Walt Odets' and one posted on Chronometrie by "A. Watchmaker" where a moisture-damaged 3135 is disassembled.

    However, there are at least a few folks with professional training who would disagree with their conclusions:


    "If you were to take apart a 3186 and a 2893-2 side by side for instance, you don't have to be a watchmaker to realize how much more has gone into the Rolex calibre, precision and quality of parts, general construction advantages etc..."
    744ER on TZ-UK, WOSTEP-certified full-time watchmaker


    "I have to say that the quality and finishing of every component is way ahead of anything ETA produce, the whole movement also seems more robust and the systems employed by Rolex clearly improve timekeeping. Overall I have to say that compared to a modern ETA 2892, the 3035 is clearly the better movement, the fact that it was replaced by the 3135 more than twenty years ago demonstrates that Rolex have been producing excellent movements for a long time. Obviously Rolex watches command a higher price point than most brands that contain ETA movements but there are brands out there using the 2892 in the Rolex price bracket. You would definitely be getting a better engineered and manufactured movement with the Rolex."
    raulhorology blog


    Note that the latter quote relates to a movement from the very same 30XX series that was largely the basis for the misinformation out there, and reinforces my impression that the infamous Explorer movement hadn't come straight out of the factory in its described state.

    I don't have much opinion on the Cellini line, but I actually like that they use solid casebacks for their Oyster watches on principle. Rolex is as hardcore as they come when it comes to watchmaking, it's just that handmade art movements aren't their thing.

    There's no foreseeable lack of uneducated opinions on the subject, but now you know better. As a famous rapper once said: "Don't believe the hype."

    :teach:
     
    Last edited: Oct 22, 2014
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  9. bkotsko

    bkotsko Well-Known Member

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    Nice writeup, Belli.
     
  10. mimo

    mimo Well-Known Member

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    Thought: "decoration" is one thing. "Finishing" is a bigger thing, whether or not it's designed to be decorative. Perhaps some merging of the two in the popular consciousness?
     
  11. no frills

    no frills Well-Known Member

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    Does this guy even lift? He needs to catch a workout with me.
     
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  12. in stitches

    in stitches Well-Known Member

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    Dino - thanks for the kind wishes. :)

    Mimo - 42mm
     
  13. jbarwick

    jbarwick Well-Known Member

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    My Father-in-law finally took his early 90s two-tone Sub to the Rolex headquarters in Dallas. Literally right across the street from him for the past 4 years but he wouldn't go. They said a service on his watch was going to cost $1,600 because it needed a lot of work, and it does. They also gave him a minimum of what it would cost for them to even work on it of something like $800-$900.

    Good to see he is getting it cleaned and running longer than the <24hrs it would run. I think he is just getting internals freshened up and leaving the case as it.
     
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  14. Belligero

    Belligero Well-Known Member

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    My pleasure, glad you liked it!

    Here are another few tidbits if you're into this stuff:

    watchmakingblog.com on Rolex's special gasket

    Velociphile on balance wheels

    It's regrettable that the latter blog is no longer being updated; a bit of detail on how stuff is made is a welcome break from the usual sales-pitches-disguised-as-reviews.
     
    Last edited: Oct 22, 2014
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  15. Dino944

    Dino944 Well-Known Member

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    Its Pasha with an S...not a C [​IMG]. As Stitchy pointed out that is the 42mm, which was the last of that series. It used a JLC base. There have been various sizes of Pashas over the years, with the smallest at 35 mm (not counting smaller ladies models), and the largest of the standard production models were 42 mm.

    I agree, people often speak of finish and decoration as those they are the same.. You can have a watch with a movement that is well finished, but basic in terms of decoration.

    Sounds like there are certainly some worn out or damaged parts. I had my Ex2 serviced this past spring (nothing wrong with it) and other than gaskets nothing needed replacing. I did not have the case or bracelet refinished and it cost $600 for the service. Anyway, wishing your Father-in-law many years of great use and enjoyment from his watch once it is repaired.
     
  16. in stitches

    in stitches Well-Known Member

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    Awesome post, btw, Belli. Rolex 4 lief.
     
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  17. TC (Houston)

    TC (Houston) Well-Known Member

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    +1, great info. I had been very AP focused over the last couple of years but recently rekindled my passion for Rolex.
     
  18. in stitches

    in stitches Well-Known Member

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  19. TC (Houston)

    TC (Houston) Well-Known Member

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    You definitely need to try a Royal Oak at some point. :)
     
  20. easy_golfing

    easy_golfing Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the info! Now just to kop...
     
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